A Tangled Web of Metal Part 2 

 

Until now, our exploration has delved deeply into the metal thread embroidery techniques of talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

 and sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud., also known as dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery., and their various terms along with potential etymological origins. However, as talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

 and sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud. showcase influences from neighbouring cultures, our attention will now shift to metal thread embroidery techniques exclusive to the Arab world, rooted in global practices.  

In this segment, we’ll delve into the intricacies of ‘ghabani’ or ‘aghabani

Aghabānī: (Arabic), a type of embroidered fabric often either silk or cotton. The embroidery technique used to create the embellishment was needlepoint chain_stitch with Damascus and Aleppo as centre for such craftsmanship in the Levant.

’, ’shugl al tail’ and ‘taḥrīry’. While the former boasts uniqueness in Syria, particularly in Aleppo and Damascus, the latter finds its origins in Bethlehem, Palestine. 

 

Chain Stitch with a Twist – Ghabani  

Ghabani embroidery, originating from Syria, showcases a unique form of chain stitch work executed with primarily metal threads with a hook. The term “ghabani” refers not only to the embroidery technique but also to the final product adorned with this distinctive craftsmanship. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Aleppo and Damascus were significant hubs for ghabani production in the Arab world. 

 

A ‘’ghabani’ embellished sleeveless jacket, Aleppo, Syria c. early 20th century; Acc No: ZI2019.500497 SYRIA; Source: The ZayInitiative collection, Link 

 

Closeup of a ‘’ghabani’ embellished sleeveless jacket, Aleppo, Syria c. early 20th century; Acc No: ZI2019.500497 SYRIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, Link 

 

The technique involved a specific type of embroidered fabric, commonly silk or cotton, with Damascus and Aleppo serving as prominent centres for this craftexporting ghabani fabrics all across the Arab world. However, while Aleppo and Damascus were renowned for its ghabani textiles, there was also a significant influx of ghabani fabrics from India through Iran to meet the soaring demand. 

Ghabani embroidery, embellished a variety of objects, including covers, curtains, tablecloths, as well as men’s clothing like coats, sashes, and turbans. It even found its place in the early 20th-century wedding dresses for women in the Jerusalem region of Palestine. Interestingly, Jerusalem, despite being a major city, did not develop its own embroidery style. This phenomenon can be attributed to the city’s international vibrancy, constantly exposed to diverse foreign influences brought in by people from around the world with their distinct regional costumes. Dresses in the Jerusalem area primarily featured fabrics imported from Damascus, notably Damascene striped silk, and ghabani textiles. 

Many assert that the ghabani traces its roots to the Ottoman era in Damascus, a time when bespoke embroidered fabric was exclusively crafted for men of esteemed religious stature or high social standing. Interestingly, it was the women who pioneered this intricate craft, learning the art of embroidery from their mothers or aunts during their formative years. In the period preceding the civil war in Syria, approximately 5000 women in Duma, Damascus, were engaged in ghabani production, working from the confines of their homes due to their conservative backgrounds. 

These women, despite facing challenges posed by the conservative setting, diligently practiced their craft. The outbreak of the civil war in 2011 disrupted this longstanding tradition, and the unique method of ghabani embroidery, carried out by these women, became a lost art. As they fled their homes and took refuge in camps in foreign lands during the turmoil, these women continued honing their skills, ensuring the survival and revival of the nearly extinct craft. Today, their collective efforts and passion for the craft have breathed new life into ghabani, preserving it for future generations. 

 

A ‘’ghabani’ embellished tunic dress, Syria c. early 20th century; Acc No: ZI2021.500871.3 SYRIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, Link 

 

Closeup of a ‘’ghabani’ embellished tunic dress, Syria c. early 20thcentury; Acc No: ZI2021.500871.3 SYRIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, Link 

 

Couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

with Cord – Taḥrīry  

Bethlehem, Palestine, renowned for its Biblical significance and the ingrained art of cross stitching in Palestinian culture, also holds a distinct prowess in the metal thread embroidery technique of couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

. In the 19th century, Bethlehem emerged as a focal point of Palestinian fashion, particularly excelling in the couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

 technique. Collaborating with the nearby Beit Jala area, Bethlehem elevated couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

 to an art form, establishing its uniqueness within the existing technique. This specific couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

 technique is referred to as taḥrīry. 

Taḥrīry embroidery stands out as the predominant form in Bethlehem’s rich embroidery tradition, surpassing the traditional Palestinian cross stitch in prevalence. Widely employed on chest panels adorned instead of cross stitch patterns, it gained notable popularity in the 20th century, notably featured on Bethlehem’s unique jackets known as taksiry. 

Characterized by intricate cord couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

, taḥrīry showcases thin cords in diverse colours, often incorporating a metallic thread. These cords, sewn down with silk, form sinuous and stylized floral patterns, resembling passementerie. In taḥrīry, unlike other couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

 techniques, the primary design emerges from cords or braids, frequently made of metallic threads. While silk braids are not uncommon, the distinctive use of metal threads sets taḥrīry apart from the typical cross stitched thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. dresses of the region. 

Reflecting the influence of regional flora and fauna, taḥrīry’s uniqueness extends beyond motif depiction to the playful exploration of negative spaces between cords and embroidery, adding a distinctive charm to its artistic expression. 

Simple Stitches with Metal – Shughl al tail  

Syria’s influence in the realm of metal thread embroidery surpasses the production of sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud. or dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery. for the local Arab market under Ottoman rule, much like the contribution made by Palestine. Syria has actively participated in shaping a distinctive metal thread embroidery technique, building upon an existing foundation. 

While Damascus and Aleppo served as pivotal centres for sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud., Hama emerged as the specialized hub for a unique Syrian metal thread embroidery technique, concurrently catering to the local market with talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

 on net. 

Hama’s garments were predominantly crafted from cotton gauze Gauze: (English), very fine wire mesh transparent fabric of silk, linen, or cotton., featuring dyed patterns embellished with metal thread embroidery known as ‘shughl al tail.’ This embroidery style treated flat beaten metal threads as conventional threads, employing various standard embroidery techniques such as blanket stitch, satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. stitch, overcast stitch, running stitch, and more to enhance the patterns. 

Fabrics adorned with shughl al tail gained popularity for creating ceremonial thobes for women, particularly worn during pre-wedding celebrations like henna nights. Additionally, these fabrics were sought after for crafting an array of accessories like bags and pouches, as well as furnishing various household items, including bath towels, wall hangings, curtains, and more. 

 

Conclusion 

In conclusion, the rich tapestry Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings.  of metal thread embroidery across the Arab world reflects a fascinating fusion of cultural influences and regional specialties. From the Ottoman-inspired sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud. and dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery. found in the bustling markets of Damascus and Aleppo to the diversity of talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

 spanning from the Arabian Peninsula to Egypt and the Levant, each technique tells a story of craftsmanship deeply rooted in local traditions. While the intricate taḥrīry embroidery from Bethlehem adds a unique touch to Palestinian attire, showcasing the diverse artistic expressions within the region the distinctiveness of kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

 in Iraq emphasizes the regional nuances within the broader Pan-Arab tradition. 

The survival and revival of these embroidery techniques, despite the challenges brought by time and conflicts, stand as a testament to the resilience and dedication of skilled artisans. As we unravel the threads of history woven into these embellished fabrics, we gain a deeper appreciation for the artistry that transcends borders and connects generations through the language of stitches and patterns.