The Zay Initiative:ASYUTI AND THE MODERN WEST: AN INITIMATE LOVE STORY (Part ii)

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ASYUTI AND THE MODERN WEST: AN INITIMATE LOVE STORY (Part ii)

publish date:01-10-2025

Rajrupa Das

In the previous section, we explored the history of the Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , its cultural significance, and its introduction to the West. We also examined various theories regarding its origins and discussed how the contemporary version of the Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

emerged through the use of English net or tulle. In this instalment, we will examine the influential role of the Egyptian , mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

in shaping fashion trends and styles as it evolved and endured through the eponymous the Belle Époque and the Art Deco periods.

According to Shahira Mehrez, one of Egypt's foremost costume historians and collectors, talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

embroidered dresses in the shops of Cairo during the 1960s were reputed as the "sexy traditional outfit of early twentieth-century professional entertainers." She further explains that these embroidered ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

outfits, known as talbīsa , mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

or "overdress from Asyut," came in two distinct types. The first type was the traditional Delta outfit, characterized by a "T-shaped" garment made of fine -like fabric (šarb).

Talbīsa asyuti
Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad Mnaghad: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially., naghdah Naghdah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah, mnaghad, mnaghadah). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially.). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah
Bādlah: (Hindustani: badal – cloud from Sanskirt: vārdala – water; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.
, fardi, khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.
; Dress, Egypt, c. 19^th century; Acc No C.I.51.112.11; Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art

The second type, more familiar to Western audiences, was made of tulle cut into a similar T-shaped structure with large sleeves and an elongated slit opening. The primary differences between these two types lay in the distribution of motifs and design patterns and the lack of concordance in the two.

A non-traditional Asyuti
Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad Mnaghad: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially., naghdah Naghdah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah, mnaghad, mnaghadah). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially.). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah
Bādlah: (Hindustani: badal – cloud from Sanskirt: vārdala – water; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.
, fardi, khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.
dress; Dress, Egypt, c. 19^th century; Acc No C.I.56.6.11; Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art

While traditional dresses concentrated embroidery in specific areas, the second type featured fully embroidered designs, with the embroidery treated as a print, achieved by sewing several shawls together. The quintessential example of this second type of talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

embroidered dress is the costume worn by the renowned Egyptian dancer Tahiyya Kariokka during the 1940s and 1950s.

Tahiyya Kariokka and her troupe in costumes constructed of Asyut shawls ; ‘Taheya Karioca’, c. 1920; Source: Wikimedia Commons

Before this period, Asyut shawls in the West were often regarded as symbols of refinement and wealth. Incorporating an Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. into one's ensemble signified the wearer's capacity to afford the luxury of travel and their taste for exotic and adventurous destinations such as Egypt. The fascination with Asyut shawls followed a typical fashion trajectory. Initially, they were discovered by discerning women of significant generational wealth and aristocracy. As the middle class began to accumulate wealth and gain the ability to travel as tourists to the Nile, the demand for these shawls increased. However, this surge in demand led to a notable decline in quality.

During the Belle Époque and the height of the Industrial Revolution in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, significant events such as the Chicago World Fair (1893) facilitated the assimilation and exchange of culture and knowledge between the West and the rest of the world. Within this context, Asyut shawls and textiles carved out a distinctive niche. Women of social standing and title began to embrace and promote new social norms, including freedom and empowerment, by incorporating socially daring outfits made from exotic textiles like the Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

. Concurrently, female performers such as Farheda Mazar Spyropolous, Ashea Wabe, Fatima Djamile, and Lorraine Shalhoub known by their stage name ‘Little Egypt’, were gaining fame and influence through their stage presence at international expositions like the Chicago World Fair and the Century of Progress.

Ashea Wabe posing with a tulle bi talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
veil; ‘Ashea Wabe as Little Egypt’, Photo Credit: Benjamin Falk, c. 1890s; Source: Wikimedia Commons

During the first decade of the 20th century, the craze for Orientalism permeated various art forms, including the performing arts. This trend introduced sumptuous costumes, fantastical narratives, and movement vocabularies inspired by the cultures of the Turks, Arabs, Persians, and Indians. Actresses, dancers, society ladies, and artist models all adopted Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

textiles as iconic statements of their ability to travel, purchase luxury goods, and express their affiliation with the bohemian world of arts, literature, dance, and theatre. The desire to wear Asyut shawls to opera, theatre, and dance performances was fuelled by the costumes worn by entertainers across various genres, from burlesque to vaudeville to high-class theatre and opera.

Prominent society figures, such as the French Countess Hoquari de Turtot, and ballerina turned actresses like Lily Elsie in her career-defining role as Sonia in "The Merry Widow" (1907-1909), or her co-star Gabrielle Ray as Frou-Frou, French opera singer Marianne Nicot-Vauchelet in the title role of "Lakmé" (1908-1911), and early modern dancers like Ruth St. Denis, along with famous oriental Oriental: (Latin and Late Middle English Adjective: orientalis – From Orient; from Latin (noun): oriri – to rise; and oriors – East), anything of an Eastern origin in relationship to Europe – Asia. The word was first used in the context of territorialization between the late 3rd and early 4th Century CE. dancers like Farheda Mazar all sported the Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

Lily Elsie in costume including Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. ; ‘Lily Elsie in The Merry Widow’, c. 1909; Source: Wikimedia Commons

Following the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in November of 1922, the Orientalist frenzy adopted a new form with the art Deco movement. Although Art Deco first emerged in Paris in the 1910s, its revival post-World War I in both Europe and the United States was marked by events like the Industrial Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925. The bold geometric forms of the Art Deco period, ranging from architecture to costumes, drew inspiration from various cultures, particularly Egypt. This phenomenon, famously termed Egyptomania, permeated every aspect of society in the United States.

Actress Alice Joyce in an flapper Flapper: (English: Flapper /Flap – Newly fledged wild duck), originally the word was used to identify young teenage girls during the 19th century. However, post WWI it was used to identify transatlantic women adhering to the popular culture of flouting conventional rules by wearing knee length skirts, and bobbed hair. dress; ‘Alice Joyce’, c. 1926; Source: Wikimedia Commons

The iconic flapper Flapper: (English: Flapper /Flap – Newly fledged wild duck), originally the word was used to identify young teenage girls during the 19th century. However, post WWI it was used to identify transatlantic women adhering to the popular culture of flouting conventional rules by wearing knee length skirts, and bobbed hair. dresses of the era, adorned with Oriental Oriental: (Latin and Late Middle English Adjective: orientalis – From Orient; from Latin (noun): oriri – to rise; and oriors – East), anything of an Eastern origin in relationship to Europe – Asia. The word was first used in the context of territorialization between the late 3rd and early 4th Century CE. , particularly Egyptian, textiles, became emblematic of the rebellious "bright young things" of the 1920s who sought to defy conventional social norms. The use of exotic Egyptian textiles, especially the Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

style, was evident in numerous American films of the time. From Theda Bara as Cleopatra in Gordon Edwards' "Cleopatra" (1917) to Rudolph Valentino in "The Young Rajah" (1922), from Clara Bow in "My Lady of Whims" (1925) to June Havoc in "Intrigue" (1947) and Hedy Lamarr as Delilah in "Samson and Delilah" (1949), Asyut textiles were prominent on both the social scene and the silver screen.

Actress Theda Bara in costume as Cleopatra in Gordon Edwards' film "Cleopatra" (1917); c. 1917; Source: Wikimedia Commons

Rudolph Valentino in the film "The Young Rajah" (1922); c. 1922; Source: Silent Era

The popularity of the Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

trickled down through society, moving from the exclusive domain of the super-wealthy to the middle class, facilitated by affordable tourism. The 's presence was ubiquitous by the mid-1910s, appearing in newspaper coverage of aristocratic ladies at society functions, entertainment magazines featuring actresses, and thousands of postcards of , mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

clad women, which survive today as a testament to its fame.

The Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

textile featured in various contexts, from upper-class images of refined artists in upscale venues to average postcards in theatre lobbies for promotions and artistic postcards of artfully draped unnamed nudes available from vending machines at bars and salons. Even cigarette cards used to stiffen packets of cigarettes displayed images of women wrapped in , mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

. During the first quarter of the 20th century, prominent costume designers such as Edith Head and couturiers like Jean Patou incorporated , mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

into their designs, showcasing the textile's versatility and widespread appeal.

Victor Mature and Hedy Lamarr in costume designed by Edith Head for the film "Samson and Delilah" (1949); c. 1949; Source: Wikimedia Commons

Today, the Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. is once again a coveted collectible in the vintage clothing markets and remains a popular dress choice among celebrities. Designers and stylists continue to rediscover this fabric, frequently draping their celebrity clientele in Asyut pieces.

Vintage Asyut shawls are utilized in two primary ways by contemporary designers: either the fabric is converted into a wearable garment, or it is used in its original form as a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. or wrap, serving as an accessory. Thus, this enduring fascination with the Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , which began with a romantic glance in the early 1800s and evolved into a passionate affair in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries, has matured gracefully, much like a fine wine.

Bibliography:

Mehrez, S. Costumes of Egypt. First, Institut Français D’Archéologie Orientale, 2023.

Rugh, A. B. Reveal and Conceal. First, Syracuse University Press, 1986.

Bos, J. Egypt’s Wearable Heritage. First, Blikvelduitgevers Publishers, 2016.

RAWI Egypt’s Heritage Review, no. 11, 2021.

Devine, Dawn, and Alisha Westerfeld. The Cloth of Egypt All About Assiut: Assiut – Asyut – Tulle-Bi-Telli. Ibexa Press, 2014.

Khaled, Fadila. “Behind the Stage Curtain: The Hidden Side of Oriental Oriental: (Latin and Late Middle English Adjective: orientalis – From Orient; from Latin (noun): oriri – to rise; and oriors – East), anything of an Eastern origin in relationship to Europe – Asia. The word was first used in the context of territorialization between the late 3rd and early 4th Century CE. Dance Icon Tahiya Tāḥīyah: (Arabic: ṭāqīyah – small round skull cap), a traditional skull cap often colourfully embroidered and embellished. A part of Turkmen national costume it is worn by both men and women with slight differences in design and construction to distinguish between the genders. Karioka.” Egyptian Streets, 21 Feb. 2022, egyptianstreets.com/2022/02/20/behind-the-stage-curtain-the-hidden-side-of-oriental Oriental: (Latin and Late Middle English Adjective: orientalis – From Orient; from Latin (noun): oriri – to rise; and oriors – East), anything of an Eastern origin in relationship to Europe – Asia. The word was first used in the context of territorialization between the late 3rd and early 4th Century CE. -dance-icon-tahiya Tāḥīyah: (Arabic: ṭāqīyah – small round skull cap), a traditional skull cap often colourfully embroidered and embellished. A part of Turkmen national costume it is worn by both men and women with slight differences in design and construction to distinguish between the genders. -karioka/.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

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Tahiyya Kariokka and her troupe in costumes constructed of Asyut shawls ; ‘Taheya Karioca’, c. 1920; Source: Wikimedia Commons

Actress Theda Bara in costume as Cleopatra in Gordon Edwards' film "Cleopatra" (1917); c. 1917; Source: Wikimedia Commons

Rudolph Valentino in the film "The Young Rajah" (1922); c. 1922; Source: Silent Era

Victor Mature and Hedy Lamarr in costume designed by Edith Head for the film "Samson and Delilah" (1949); c. 1949; Source: Wikimedia Commons

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