The Zay Initiative:ASYUTI AND THE MODERN WEST: AN INITIMATE LOVE STORY (Part i)

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ASYUTI AND THE MODERN WEST: AN INITIMATE LOVE STORY (Part i)

publish date:11-09-2025

Rajrupa Das

The Egyptian Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , or Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

, gained significant prominence in the late 19thand early 20thcenturies, particularly within Western fashion circles. This period coincided with a peak in Western colonial expansion and an associated fascination with the East, often referred to as Orientalism. The , mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

, characterized by its intricate hand-embroidered metallic thread patterns on lightweight cotton or linen, became a symbol of exotic elegance and cultural mystique. Its rise to fame can be attributed to the West’s growing obsession with Eastern aesthetics and artifacts, spurred by the colonial narrative and the romanticized allure of the Orient. This fascination was reflected in various forms of art, literature, and fashion, where the , mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

emerged as one of the coveted accessories, embodying the Western idealization of Eastern opulence and craftsmanship.

The Shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. in Light of Egyptian Culture and History

Located south of Cairo, Asyut is the largest city in Upper Egypt and serves as a central hub for Coptic Christians in the region. Historically known as ‘Lycopolis’ during the Ptolemaic Greek period, the city retains its ancient Pharaonic name, ‘Syut’ or ‘Zyut’. Due to its strategic position between Cairo and Luxor, Asyut has long functioned as a crucial trading centre, facilitating commerce between Lower Egypt and the rest of Africa. In addition, it has historically served as an important stopover for travellers and tourists.

Part of an Asyuti
Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad Mnaghad: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially., naghdah Naghdah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah, mnaghad, mnaghadah). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially.). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah
Bādlah: (Hindustani: badal – cloud from Sanskirt: vārdala – water; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.
, fardi, khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.
or tarha, Asyut, Egypt, c. 1920; Acc No ZI2018.500126.2 EGYPT; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative

While metal thread work has been prevalent in Egypt since ancient times, both in woven as well as embroidered textiles, the history of “tulle bi talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

,” or the technique of metal thread work used in making Asyutis, is relatively recent. Most scholars and experts associate tulle bi ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

with the Ottoman Empire, possibly because some of the earliest examples of this technique, although not on tulle, are from the Ottoman period.

Although there is debate amongst scholars regarding the origins of talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

work the most plausible perspective is that it was possibly imported from Ottoman Turkey and Turkic Central Asia, spreading widely with the expansion of the Ottoman Empire.

The earliest datable example of talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

embroidery appears in the mid-16th century, associated with the son and wife of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. Similar techniques are found in 16th century fragments from Qasr Ibrim in Egypt. According to Egyptian textile historian Shahira Mehrez, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

already existed in the Arab world by the late 9th and early 10th centuries, as evidenced by the term ‘tāli’ appearing in significant chronicles from that period. Mehrez further notes that ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

textiles are cited in records of gifts sent by Byzantine Emperor Constantine IX Monomachus to the Fatimid caliph around 1046 CE. Mehrez argues that although this might suggest a Byzantine origin, two key facts suggest otherwise. First, the gifts included turbans, a Muslim head covering unknown in Byzantium. Second, the records, meant to impress the recipients, usually often specified the origins of the presents, the absence of which in this case confirms that ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

was well known in the Fatimid court.

Comparable techniques of textile embellishment involving the application of hammered metal plate have been documented across a broad geographic span, extending from the Indian subcontinent and Iran to the Levant and the Arabian Peninsula. These techniques, while regionally distinct in nomenclature and slight stylistic variation, share notable technical affinities with tulle bi talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

of Egypt. Known as bādla in South Asia, tariq in the Levant, dozi in Iran, and in the Arabian Peninsula, these forms constitute a wider regional tradition of hammered metal plate textile ornamentation.

The proliferation of bādla in the Indian subcontinent is particularly associated with the 16th and 17thcenturies, flourishing under the patronage of Empress Nur Jahan, the chief consort of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. In the Levant, the adoption and adaptation of such techniques were likely facilitated through Ottoman cultural influence, while in the Persian context, khus Khūṣ: (Arabic: straw, sing. khūṣah), flat silver or metallic flat straw used in embroidery or tallī making. dozi arguably contributed to the development of naqdah Naqdah: (Arabic: coins, synonyms: mnaghadah, naghdah, mnaghadah) Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially. in the Arabian Peninsula through historic trade and cultural exchanges.

Of particular interest is the South Asian attribution of bādla’s origins to Nur Jahan herself. While such claims remain anecdotal and cannot be substantiated through primary sources, they nonetheless underscore her significant role in shaping the textile arts of the Mughal court. Born into an aristocratic Persian family in Kandahar, Nur Jahan would likely have been familiar with khus Khūṣ: (Arabic: straw, sing. khūṣah), flat silver or metallic flat straw used in embroidery or tallī making. dozi or similar Turkic and Turkic Central Asian textile traditions prior to her ascendancy in the Mughal imperial court. Her exposure to these practices may have informed her promotion of employing hammered metal plates in textile art of South Asia, where she played a pivotal role in its refinement and dissemination by commissioning artisans and integrating these techniques into the imperial ateliers.

This interregional trajectory not only highlights the interconnected nature of textile cultures across several regions of the world but also suggests a shared heritage of ornamental textile practices that transcends rigid geographic and political boundaries. It points to a complex history of mutual influence, patronage, and artisanal mobility.

In Egyptian cultural history, the Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. has always held significant importance. Although often referred to as “Coptic Shawls” or “Copt Scarves” by 19th century European travellers, the Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

transcended religious and economic boundaries. These shawls were regional specialties crafted by women from farming and working-class communities, regardless of their religious affiliations. The association with Coptic Christianity likely stemmed from a misinterpretation, as the region of Asyut and its surrounding areas have historically had a high concentration of Coptic Christians.

Highly valued by women in the agricultural community, particularly in the impoverished regions of Upper Egypt, these shawls, often used as shawls, were cherished possessions and integral components of wedding trousseaus. Reserved for significant ceremonial occasions throughout their lives, these shawls held immense sentimental and cultural value.

The Western connection of the Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. is indeed fascinating. While their prominence during the Art Deco era and their significant influence on flapper Flapper: (English: Flapper /Flap – Newly fledged wild duck), originally the word was used to identify young teenage girls during the 19th century. However, post WWI it was used to identify transatlantic women adhering to the popular culture of flouting conventional rules by wearing knee length skirts, and bobbed hair. dresses might suggest that they gained popularity in the first quarter of the 20th century, this assumption is incorrect. It is true that their presence in dance costumes on stages in urban centres across Egypt during the early 20th century, coupled with the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, spurred European travellers and Western society to incorporate Egyptian aesthetics into the Art Deco movement. However, it would be presumptuous to assume that the integration of these glittering pieces into Western culture occurred solely post-industrialization.

Asyut shawls had already made an impact in Europe following Napoleon’s conquest of Egypt and Syria (1798-1801). By circa 1809, shawls made in Asyut for local use featured talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

embroidery on cotton or flax grounds were making its way to the west. One of the oldest surviving examples of ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

on net or tulle dates back to circa 1810-11, from the collection of Empress Josephine of France. Modern tulle became widely available in the early 19th century after English inventor John Heathcoat invented the bobbinet machine in 1809. Originally called “English Net,” the fabric became widely known as “tulle” after the lace-making centre in France bearing the same name.

Tulle or “English Net” became a staple for European travellers to Egypt since the French conquest. With the Industrial Revolution in full swing, steam-powered boats—introduced around 1787—and steam locomotives—developed and improved by circa 1775—made travel to distant regions more accessible.

The 19th century Western travellers on the Nile had three primary modes of travel: sailboat, steam-powered paddle boat, or train. The traditional method, exploring Egypt by sailboat, required tourists to allocate up to 40 days for a round trip from Cairo to Luxor via Asyut, as advised by numerous travel guides. This was the slowest and most expensive mode of travel. Steamboats, by contrast, were the most popular means of traveling the Nile. Paddle-wheel riverboats became common on the Nile after the 1870s, offering set tours that stopped at major destinations such as Memphis, Abydos, Dendareh, Thebes, and Luxor. Asyut was a required stop on every tour for picking up provisions, sightseeing, and occasionally accommodating tourists making train connections.

Tour books were indispensable for foreign travellers to Egypt, providing crucial guidance on necessary precautions against various illnesses that could result in lasting or permanent conditions. One such illness was trachoma which was caused by bacteria. A highly contagious ailment it could easily spread amongst through direct contact and by flies. Other common ailments of the time included diarrhoea, malaria, and other fevers transmitted by mosquito bites.

Travelers were advised to bring mosquito nets, and women were encouraged to wear scarves to protect themselves from these insects. Consequently, transparent bobbinet tulle became an essential item in the luggage of Western travellers. This necessity effectively introduced the fabric to Egypt, marking its initial integration into the region.

The remarkable qualities of English bobbinet made it an exceptional substitute for the traditional Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. . Unlike the limited width of traditional cloth, bobbinet or tulle fabric could be manufactured in much wider dimensions. Furthermore, its construction featured a robust yet flexible hexagonal structure, achieved by wrapping or twisting diagonal weft Weft: one of the two basic components used in weaving that transforms thread or yarns into a piece of fabric. It is the crosswise thread on a loom that is passed over and under the warp threads. threads around a sturdy warp Warp: One of the two basic components used in weaving which transforms thread or yarns to a piece of fabric. The warp is the set of yarns stretched longitudinally in place on a loom before the weft Weft: one of the two basic components used in weaving that transforms thread or yarns into a piece of fabric. It is the crosswise thread on a loom that is passed over and under the warp threads. is introduced during the weaving process. framework. This design not only allowed the fabric to stretch and drape elegantly but also ensured it rarely frayed, enhancing its durability and functionality.

Close up of an Asyuti
Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad Mnaghad: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially., naghdah Naghdah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins, synonyms: mnaghadah, mnaghad, mnaghadah). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mnaghadah Mnaghadah: (Arabic: mnaqad: with coins). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. In the Arab Gulf region, the terms (mnaghadah), (mnaghad) (nighdah) and (tallī) are often used interchangeably, with the (qāf) pronounced (gha) colloquially.). Since silver was a form of currency, it came to refer to silver adorned garments. The term refers to articles decorated with silver (tallī) straw (khūs) in small coin-like dots. The (qāf) is pronounced (gha) colloquially., mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah
Bādlah: (Hindustani: badal – cloud from Sanskirt: vārdala – water; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.
, fardi, khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.
or tarha, Asyut, Egypt, c. 1920; Acc No ZI2018.500126.2 EGYPT; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative

Although Asyut shawls were widely prevalent in Egypt and were locally known as tarha, they represented a form of cultural folk art—a traditional local embroidery skill transmitted from mother to daughter and shared among friends and family members. Consequently, this craft was often undocumented by Western historians in their travel journals. It was not until the late 19th century that travellers began to document the shimmering shawls of Asyut in their travel journals. However, these accounts were notably devoid of visual references. Tourists found it exceedingly difficult to photograph local women, rendering a significant gap in the visual documentation of these cultural artifacts.

Upon arriving in Egypt, Western tourists typically spent a few days in Cairo before embarking on their journey down the Nile. During this period, tourists commonly shopped for local wares and regional crafts. Among the popular purchases were postcards, which served as souvenirs or gifts. These postcards often featured scenic views as well as images of women and girls in traditional attire. There were generally two types of postcards available in Egyptian markets: those with an ethnographic focus and others depicting more erotic images of showgirls and musicians, which were primarily targeted at male tourists.

Screenshots of images of samples of ethnographic postcards from Egypt on Pinterest, by various users. Source: Pinterest

The distribution of these postcards ultimately ignited Western interest in Asyut shawls, leading to their acquisition as souvenirs. Tourists frequently purchased these shawls during their travels to ward off flies and mosquitoes, subsequently bringing them back as unique cultural and exotic artifacts. Their compact size and durability made them damage resistant and distinguished them from other, less reliable items.

Thus, the introduction of the Asyut shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. to the West and tulle to Egypt initiated a dynamic exchange between the two cultures. This interaction fostered a continuous exchange of ideas and materials, enriching both traditions through their mutual influence and adaptation. The forthcoming instalment of this series will examine the influential role of the Egyptian Asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

in shaping fashion trends and styles, as it evolved and persisted through two major artistic movements: the Belle Époque and the Art Deco period in the West.

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Arab HeritageArab DressEgypttulle-bi-telliArab fashionNorth AfricaCostume historyShawlAsyuti

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Screenshots of images of samples of ethnographic postcards from Egypt on Pinterest, by various users. Source: Pinterest

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