1 of 2

Embellished tulle veil - Asyut

Local Name	Tarhah; Talli tarhah; Tulle_bi_talli tarhah
Object Category	Accessory
Gender	Female
Date of object	C. 1920
Place Of orgin	Egypt
Region	Asyut
Object Range	Egypt, UAE, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Kuwait, Qatar, India, Iran et al.
Dimensions	Length: 234 cm Width: 81cm
Materials	Cotton Metal
Technique	Hand Stitched Hand Embroidered
Color
Motif	Geometric Animal
Provenance	Purchased, Dealer, Europe 2018
Location	The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
Status	In storage
ZI number	ZI2018.500126.2 EGYPT

Object Note

Part of a lot along with 2 more items (ZI2018.500126.1 EGYPT and ZI2018.500216.3 EGYPT) also in the collection.

Object History

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. after spotting it at an antique dealer from Europe in 2018, to be added to and enhance The Initiative collection.

Object Features

This is a narrow rectangular cotton tulle panel used as a head covering (tarhah Ṭarḥah: (Arabic: ṭailasān: shawl), used in some parts of the Arab region, a length of fabric used as a shawl, head cover or veil.) embellished with metal thread (talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) possibly silver over a brown base.

As a typical example of an (asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

) or () embellishment, the field of the is heavily adorned with geometric patterns. The central field of the is densely filled with fish scale patterns, while the () ends feature a broad border divided into three layers.

The outermost layer features a chain of single rhombus style amulet pattern (hujub

Ḥujub: (Arabic: plural of ḥijāb), in colloquial Egyptian, the term refers to pyramid or triangle-inspired motif used in (talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) embroidery in Upper Egypt.

) followed by the widest panel of the border. This panel features similar ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) embroidery in Upper Egypt.

chain, however, each is composed of four rhombi put together. The next panel is the narrowest of all and contains a repeat of small rhombi.

While with a (selvedge Selvedge: (English: Self-finished edge or self-edge: a dialect forming transition), an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling. Traditionally the term selvage applied to only loom woven fabric, presently it could be applied to flat knitted fabric too. ) to selvedge Selvedge: (English: Self-finished edge or self-edge: a dialect forming transition), an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling. Traditionally the term selvage applied to only loom woven fabric, presently it could be applied to flat knitted fabric too. weave the (weft Weft: one of the two basic components used in weaving that transforms thread or yarns into a piece of fabric. It is the crosswise thread on a loom that is passed over and under the warp threads.) ends of the tarhah Ṭarḥah: (Arabic: ṭailasān: shawl), used in some parts of the Arab region, a length of fabric used as a shawl, head cover or veil. have a narrow border with a zigzag pattern, the warp Warp: One of the two basic components used in weaving which transforms thread or yarns to a piece of fabric. The warp is the set of yarns stretched longitudinally in place on a loom before the weft Weft: one of the two basic components used in weaving that transforms thread or yarns into a piece of fabric. It is the crosswise thread on a loom that is passed over and under the warp threads. is introduced during the weaving process. ends are given a clean finish with a hand-stitched hem.

This piece is a typical example what was popularly called a theatre or opera scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. in Europe. It is the most opulent form of asyuti

Asyūṭī: ( Arabic: city of Assut in central Egypt, synonyms: tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli

, mnaqad/, , badla/; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, fardi, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with strips of metal squeezed shut around some threads of fabric, creating intricate shapes and designs.

embellished that were made specifically for Western tourists in the late 19th and early 20th century. The increased cost of these scarves was attributed to their densely packed stitches and the generous use of metal, resulting in the mesh appearing nearly invisible.

European women deliberated over their potential uses, prompting craftsmen and sellers from Asyut to cater to their preferences. Designs were meticulously tailored to fit grand pianos perfectly and remained popular and easily accessible until around 1918.

Subsequently, embroiderers ceased production of these large, weighty pieces, which exclusively appealed to the upper class. Instead, they transitioned to crafting scarves in the more efficient Art Deco style, requiring less time and materials.

More Details

The term talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

holds varied interpretations. Some attribute it to a tulle-like fabric, while others connect it to the Roman king Attalus, credited with inventing gold embroidery. However, it is more likely linked to the theory proposed by Shahirah Mahrez, an expert on Egyptian costume, or other historians and etymologists. According to Ms. Mehrez, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

may have Arabic origins from the word "tali," meaning a solid object coated with a coloured substance. Alternatively, another group suggests it was borrowed from Ottoman Turkish "tel," denoting metal thread. In the Gulf region, ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

is referred to as (), owing to the resemblance of metal straws to palm tree leaves.

Talli

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

serves as a term encompassing both the embroidery technique and the metal wire integral to the craft, while asyut represents another synonymous term for the craft. The term is borrowed from the name of the Upper Egyptian town of Asyut, once also known as Lycopolis during the Ptolemaic Greek period.

This technique involves single-stitch embroidery traditionally executed on a base of Egyptian cotton tulle fabric. Instead of a conventional thread, a fine metal plate is utilized to create a distinctive angular stitch with a blunt-tipped double-holed needle. Though similar metal techniques are employed worldwide for embroidery, this particular method stands out as unique to the Upper Egyptian town of Asyut.

Despite its historical presence, single-stitch metal embroidery in Egypt remained primarily a form of cultural folk art before the 19th and 20th centuries, evading documentation by Western historians. This craft was predominantly undertaken by women, a traditional skill passed down from generation to generation, shared among kin and friends. Through oral tradition, the techniques of crafting the needle, executing the stitch, and the unwritten catalogue of traditional patterns and their meanings were transmitted.

Highly valued by women in the agricultural community, particularly those in the impoverished regions of Upper Egypt, these fabrics, often used as shawls, were treasured possessions and an integral part of wedding trousseaus. Reserved for significant ceremonial purposes throughout their lives, these shawls held immense sentimental and cultural value.

During the late 19th century, Western tourists navigating the Nile took notice of these distinctive Asyut shawls, sparking a demand for them. Revered as perfect souvenirs, these fabrics exuded an exotic charm through their enigmatic motifs and patterns, further fuelling their popularity amongst travellers seeking unique mementoes of their Egyptian adventures.

Links

Mehrez, S. Costumes of Egypt. First, Institut Français D’Archéologie Orientale, 2023.
Rugh, A. B. Reveal and Conceal. First, Syracuse University Press, 1986.
Bos, J. Egypt’s Wearable Heritage. First, Blikvelduitgevers Publishers, 2016.
RAWI Egypt’s Heritage Review, no. 11, 2021.
Devine, Dawn, and Alisha Westerfeld. The Cloth of Egypt All About Assiut: Assiut – Asyut – Tulle-Bi-Telli. Ibexa Press, 2014.
Golden Ages, Dark Ages: Imagining the Past in Anthropology and History. United States, University of California Press, 2021.
Baker, Patricia L. A History of Islamic Court Dress in the Middle East, Thesis (Ph.D.) - University of London, 1986. 
Ahmed, Doaa, and Marwa Yassin. “The art of traditional embroidery of Siwa Oasis as an inspiration source for the design of innovative woven women’s clothing fabrics.” International Design Journal, vol. 13, no. 4, 1 July 2023, pp. 235–257, https://doi.org/10.21608/idj.2023.305345.
Lugatism. “Headwear and Footwear in the Mamluk Sultanate (1250–1517 CE).” Lugatism, 14 Feb. 2024, https://lugatism.wordpress.com/2022/06/22/headwear-and-footwear-in-the-mamluk-sultanate-2/
“The Tanzimat Reforms (1839–76).” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, inc., www.britannica.com/place/Ottoman-Empire/The-Tanzimat-reforms-1839-76. Accessed 31 Mar. 2024.
“Ancient Egyptian Agriculture.” Ancient Egyptian Agriculture  | Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, https://www.fao.org/country-showcase/item-detail/en/c/1287824/#:~:text=Their%20farming%20practices%20allowed%20them,field%20planting%20in%20the%20floodplains.
Maadi, CSA. “Ten Thousand Years of Wearing Linen.” CSA Reviving Community, CSA Reviving Community, 3 Aug. 2023, https://csa-living.org/oasis-blog/ten-thousand-years-of-wearing-linen

Related Products

Leave a comment