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From Buta to Paisley: Tracing the journey of Kashmir shawls (Part 1)

Introduction 

The Kashmir shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  has a long and rich history, dating back several centuries. Originating in the Kashmir valley of the Indian subcontinent and to a lesser extent eastern Iran, these shawls were highly prized all over Asia throughout antiquity for their intricate patterns, luxurious materials, and incredible craftsmanship. Recorded through time repeatedly by Buddhist monks from late antiquity China to the medieval court scribes of the Mughals, the craftmanship, indigenous to the region has been unparallel.This article attempts to trace the journey of the Kashmir shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  and its adaptation across the globe through the surviving examples in collections around the world, particularly The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative and other sources such as contemporary paintings and literature.
Two men, one bowing to the other in an orange shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  Mughal Miniature c. late 17th century; Acc No IS.48:29/B-1956; Source: Small Clive Album, V&A
Women in white with narrow pink edging, orange with narrow white edging and pink with narrow green edging shawls, Mughal Miniature c. 18th century; Acc No IS.48:36/A-1956; Source: V&A

The unique selling point: 

Woven from the finest fleece from the underbelly of the Himalayan chanthangi goats from the Ladakh province. the fabric is locally known as pashmina Pāshmīna: (Persian: pašm or pashm – wool), pashmina scarves are eponymous woolen shawls from the Kashmir region with a history dating back to more than 500 years. It is the finest variant of spun cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina.  wool extracted from the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goats found in the Ladakh province. . The term is derived from the Persian and Hindustani word pašm, meaning wool and is now commonly synonymous to the finished product.    
Portrait of Begum Samru; wearing a Kashmir shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. ; holding a huqqa-snake; draped curtain behind her, by Jiwan Das, Company Painting, Delhi c. 1830; Acc No 03554(IS); Source: V&A

The adoption of Kashmiri Kashmiri: (Hindustani: Kashmir – a region in South Asia), a term used to denote or identify anything related to the region – its people, their language, culture, art and craft, society etc.  shawls in Europe 

It is not quite clear when and how this eponymous item of luxury was introduced to the European market. Although available to the Russian market, its reach to Western Europe is not known until the latter part of the eighteenth century.   Legend has it that Napoleon and his French officers had brought the shawls to France from Egypt. They were made fashionable by Madame Emile Gaudin at Paris and Versailles, eventually resulting in a thriving trade between Europe and the Levant where these shawls already had a thriving market as winter accessories, especially as men’s headgear. While both these incidents may be anecdotal, Portuguese fleet records from the 16th century show the beginning of textile trading between India and Europe and an early 17th-century record from the Dutch East India Company mentions trading in textiles, with Kashmir shawls as one of their prized cargoes. It was probably through them that the shawls first arrived in Europe. 
Lithograph plate showing a variety of fashionable ways of draping shawls in early 19th century, France c. 1802-1814; redrawn from various early 19th-century sources by
Durin for Albert Charles Auguste Rancits’s Le Costume Historique (1888); Source: Public domain

Fashion Plate: Title Women 1846-1847, Plate 044, Gift of Woodman Thompson; Source: Fashion Plates 1790-1929, Costume Institutes Fashion Plates, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
With the British East India Company’s strong presence in India by the 18th century, importing of large quantities of shawls for the European market began in Great Britain. In France, Empress Josephine, and her contemporary courtiers such as Madame Gaudin, helped popularise them among the French nobility.
Empress Josephine of France by Antoine Jean Gros; France c. 1808; Public domain
During this period, intricately designed jamawar Jāmāwar: (Hindi, Jama Jāma: (Persian, Synonym: Juma Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north.), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north.: robe and war/var: chest or body), a portmanteau word meaning anything that covers the body. Originally brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  silk of intricate and overlapping patterns first introduced by the traders from Samarkand and Bukhara to the subcontinent and was adopted in wool specifically in pashmina Pāshmīna: (Persian: pašm or pashm – wool), pashmina scarves are eponymous woolen shawls from the Kashmir region with a history dating back to more than 500 years. It is the finest variant of spun cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina.  wool extracted from the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goats found in the Ladakh province. .  shawls inspired from the silk brocades of Central Asia brought by the traders from Samarkand and Bukhara and adopted in pashmina Pāshmīna: (Persian: pašm or pashm – wool), pashmina scarves are eponymous woolen shawls from the Kashmir region with a history dating back to more than 500 years. It is the finest variant of spun cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina.  wool extracted from the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goats found in the Ladakh province.  wool were commonly used by both men and women of the subcontinent. Traditionally woven on a hand-drawn loom (draw loom), an original Kashmir shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  in typical kani

Kānī: (Kashmiri Kashmiri: (Hindustani: Kashmir – a region in South Asia), a term used to denote or identify anything related to the region – its people, their language, culture, art and craft, society etc. : Small sticks, also a name of a village in Kashmir), a type of weave that originated in this village where wooden bobbins or sticks are used as spools on the loom to create intricate patterns instead of a shuttle. 

 (twill tapestry Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. ) weave using wooden bobbins took over a year to complete. Parts of the shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  were usually woven on different looms and then darned together by expert darners or rafugar to make a full piece. These were the original traditional pieces that were exported. However, the rise in demand from European markets eventually led to Great Britain and France localising the manufacturing of these shawls, and becoming both leaders and rivals  While there were certainly similarities between the shawls produced in Great Britain and those produced in Kashmir, there were also some notable differences. For example, while Kashmir shawls were typically made of fine wool, European manufacturers often used other materials, such as silk and sometimes even cotton and coarser wool, to create their shawls. Additionally, Kashmir shawls were decorated with intricate embroidery and beading while European manufacturers often relied on simple designs with almost plain grounds which required less labour-intensive techniques to create their shawls.  In Europe, France took the lead by establishing the first-ever manufacturing units of their kind in both Paris and Lyon. Great Britain was close to follow with Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature., Norwich, and Edinburgh as its major centres. Beginning from 1808, the shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  manufacturing industry in the town of Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. in Scotland thrived for a stretch of nearly seventy years, to the point where the name of the town – Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. – became synonymous with the Indo-Persian teardrop motif otherwise known as buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif. (Anglicised: boteh) in the Indian subcontinent. According to research conducted in 2009, the annual turnover of the industry in current value “at first price” – i.e., before adding taxes, fees of manufacturers and brokers, and profits of middlemen – amounted to around 17 million GBP or 25 million USD.
Anne-Marie-Louise Thélusson, Comtesse de Sorcy, by Jacques-Louis David, c. 1790, Source: Bayerische Staatsgemäldesammlungen - Neue Pinakothek München
Portrait of Yelizaveta Demidova by Robert Lefevre, c.1805; Source: The State Hermitage Museum St Petersburg, Russia
Princess Amalie Augusta von Bayern of Saxony Bavaria by Joseph Karl Stieler, c. 1823; Public domain
One of the key differences between the shawls produced in Great Britain and those produced in France was the use of colour. While the British shawls were typically decorated with muted, earthy tones, French shawls often featured vibrantly bright and bold colour palettes that were designed to stand out. Additionally, French shawls were often made of more luxurious silk and finer wool, which gave them a far more refined and sophisticated look.
A colourful woven shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  possibly made in France c. 1860; Acc No: ZI2020.500774 EUROPE; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
Ivory and Crimson Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles. paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. long shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. c. 1845-55; Acc No: ZI2020.500780 EUROPE; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
It is important to note that both Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. and Norwich in Great Britain already had an existing and thriving textile industry since the settlement of the Flemish weavers in the 16th century. However, these looms were not equipped to execute the elaborate designs often featured in original Kashmir shawls because of the lack of suitable quality of yarn. Multiple failed efforts to copy the quality of the fine wool from Kashmir limited the European copies to silk and coarser wool, in comparison to the lightweight pashmina Pāshmīna: (Persian: pašm or pashm – wool), pashmina scarves are eponymous woolen shawls from the Kashmir region with a history dating back to more than 500 years. It is the finest variant of spun cashmere Cashmere: (Anglisized from Hindustani: Kashmir – A region or province in the Indian subcontinent), a fine soft natural wool, from the hair of goats native to the Kashmir, Ladakh and neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent. Often confused with Pashmina, it should be noted that all cashmeres are not pashmina.  wool extracted from the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goats found in the Ladakh province. . This is the reason why the early “Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature. shawls” – the ones brought from India – are quite different from the latter ones, manufactured in the 19th century. By the 1820s, the town of Norwich in England was fast becoming a competitor of its Scottish counterparts, especially Paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature.. Many Norwich firms produced high-quality shawls that were exported worldwide. However, it was not until the mid-19th century that the shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  industry in Norwich reached its peak.    The Norwich shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  industry became famous for its innovative designs and high-quality craftsmanship, and many of the shawls produced during the mid-19th century were considered works of art. The industry employed many skilled workers, including weavers, dyers, and designers, and was an important source of employment in the region with manufacturers like Towler and Campin who enjoyed the royal patronage of both Queen Victoria and Empress Eugénie of France, and E F Hinde whose shawls were so highly sought after that they were sold at prestigious department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges. The intersection between political and economic factors due to Britain’s imperialistic pursuits coupled with the Industrial Revolution resulted in the appropriation of these beautiful shawls, much like other items from the East. For example, although Queen Victoria owned several luxurious shawls made in Kashmir, she opted to wear British-made shawls in public to show her support for the local industry. 
Louis-Philippe taking leave of Queen Victoria on board the royal yacht by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, c. 1843; Source: Victoria & Albert: Our Lives in Watercolour, Royal Collections Trust
Before the introduction of the jacquard Jacquard: (After Joseph M Jacquard a French weaver and inventor), is referred to both an apparatus with perforated cards invented by the aforementioned Joseph M Jacquard in 1804 fitted to a loom enabling complex intricate weaving patterns and the brocaded fabric woven on a jacquard loom.  loom in the 1820s, shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  makers in Europe were unable to weave a shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  selvedge Selvedge: (English: Self-finished edge or self-edge: a dialect forming transition), an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling. Traditionally the term selvage applied to only loom woven fabric, presently it could be applied to flat knitted fabric too.  to selvedge Selvedge: (English: Self-finished edge or self-edge: a dialect forming transition), an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling. Traditionally the term selvage applied to only loom woven fabric, presently it could be applied to flat knitted fabric too.  along with its border as one piece.   As a result, the body of the shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  was often stitched to its borders. These shawls were often made of woven woollen borders stitched to the plain square ground in silk or long rectangular silk body with woollen weave decorating the warp Warp: One of the two basic components used in weaving which transforms thread or yarns to a piece of fabric. The warp is the set of yarns stretched longitudinally in place on a loom before the weft Weft: one of the two basic components used in weaving that transforms thread or yarns into a piece of fabric. It is the crosswise thread on a loom that is passed over and under the warp threads. is introduced during the weaving process.  ends in broad panels and thin borders woven separately in wool stitched to the weft Weft: one of the two basic components used in weaving that transforms thread or yarns into a piece of fabric. It is the crosswise thread on a loom that is passed over and under the warp threads. ends.  From the late 18th century and all through the 19th century, shawls of different styles rose to popularity and made their individual niche in the market. Perhaps the most prominent of them all are the Kirking, the Moon, the Turnover, and finally the Delhi details of which will be covered in the next blog.  
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