Throughout our series on Cultural Dress in the UAE, we’ve mentioned embellishment in passing. In this article, we will look at the various types of embellishments in more detail, including the materials used to create it.

Threads:

Cotton and Silk

Both cotton and silk threads were traditionally used to sew garments and to attach embellishments. These threads were pulled from the edge of the fabric used to make the garments. Two or three strands were twirled together to create a strong enough thread for durable hand stitching.

Pre 1950s, cotton threads extracted from cloth, were used to stitch cotton garments as well as more delicate, slippery fabric. These threads were also used for embroidery and to both plait and attach teli ribbons to garments. Later, manufactured cotton thread became available in black and white, imported from India. Today, threads of all colours are available and imported from across Asia, mostly from Indonesia.

Silk threads, known in the UAE as braylsam or ibraylsam (the same term used for silk fabric), are available in a multitude of colours and are used for both hand and machine embroidery. Originally imported from China but now, like cotton, from all across Asia.

Metallic Threads

Two types of metallic threads are used in the UAE – zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  and teli.

• Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  is available in thin, flat, braided, or twisted forms and can be shiny, dull or lustrous. It is available in gold, silver or rainbow Rainbow: (English: rainbow). Colloquially, in the UAE the term denotes to rainbow lustre be it on crystal or metallic straw used for embellishing articles of dress.  metallic lustres, and are imported from Japan, Indonesia or India.

“To make the zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  thread, silver ingots are melted and beaten into flat, finger-sized bars. These silver bars are then wrapped three times in gold leaf, (the heavier the gold, the more yellow the thread will be). The wrapped bar is then heated until the gold diffuses with the silver. The metal is then pulled through perforated steel plates into thin wires, which are again beaten flat. The flat gold wire can be either used as such or wound around a core of lightly twisted silk or cotton threads.”  

Leela Cherian – textile artist. Extract from the Sultani Sulṭānī: (Arabic: sultān: king). In the UAE the term denotes to silk satin fabric in multiple vertical striped colours, commonly used for tunics (kanadir) and underpants (sarāwīl). Also refers to book: Sultani, Traditions Renewed, Changes in women’s traditional dress In the United Arab Emirates during the reign of the late Shaykh Zāyid Bin Sultan āl Nahyān, 1966-2004, By Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli (2011). Book by Dr Reem El Mutwalli

• Teli is a Turkish word meaning silver or gold wire and is the name given to thin strips of silver or gold foil, about 4mm wide, that are plaited together with cotton threads to form bands of different widths. These bands are made in a similar manner as bobbin lace by manipulating and twisting the bobbin-wound threads while pinning it down on a small cylindrical pillow mounted on a kajujah Kājūjah: an apparatus with an oblong shaped pillow (similar in shape to a rugby ball or an American football) placed on an hourglass shaped conical metal stand, used in the process of making the cord, braids, bands, and ribbons for use in (talli Tallī: (Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asīūṭī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli Tulle_bi_tallī: (English: tulle: netting, Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with flat strips of metal alloys coated with silver or gold squeezed shut around some threads of fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ), metal alloys coated with silver or gold, to create either flat straws or coil threads applied on clothing in varying patterns.) work. – a support made of two metal funnels welded together. A special type of teli using real silver khus Khūṣ: (Arabic: straw, sing. khūṣah), flat silver or metallic flat straw used in embroidery or tallī making. was used to decorate the badilah on the sirwal Sirwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , Ṣarwāl, sharwāl, salbāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  and had an inherent monetary value on top of its decorative qualities.

Decoration styles

Embellishments are for more than just decoration. It supports the edges and openings of garments, strengthens the fabric for attachments of fasteners and closers, and it hides unsightly seams and sewing lines.

Teli work

Embroidery using teli strips are also called teli. As these strips are quite ridged it is usually applied in linear or geometric motifs in these areas:

• The neckline and sleeve cuffs of the kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.: Teli is applied in a single line following the edge of the garment. Up to four lines can be applied side by side. The line furthest from the edge might include circles or other motifs facing away from the edge.


• The neckline and central portion of the bidinah on the thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  : The teli band follows the contours of the neckline forming a large outer square shape sometimes extending off the shoulders on the side, down to the breast line. From the bottom central point in the front of the garment the teli work might extend downwards in a rectangular shape to groin level.


• The ankle line of the sirwal Sirwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , Ṣarwāl, sharwāl, salbāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century. : The teli bands are placed next to each other in a linear pattern following the contours of the ankle line creating a bracelet effect near the bottom edge.

Tarchibah Tarchībah: (Arabic: tarkībah: to fix or add on). In the UAE the term refers to ready-made silver embroidered dress parts, mainly the neckline (ḥalj) or sleeve cuffs (ḥyūl) on garments, imported from India before the 1970s. Because of its high value, it was transferred from a garment to another (jal’), or its silver was melted and sold when needed. The letter (kāf) in some Arabic regions is colloquially pronounced (cha). The term is also more widely used elsewhere to refer to any added applications such as ruffles or belts.

A prefabricated embroidered form that fits the neckline of the thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  . These ready-made machine-embroidered items were first imported from India but were soon locally made in both machine embroidery and teli. It follows the contours of the neckline in the front, ending on the shoulder line with a square outer edge. It consists of three portions:

• A band of about 5cm wide, following the neckline, consisting of two lines of machine embroidery or teli on the edges filled with floral, Flora and fauna, or geometric patterns in-between.


• Two triangular shapes to the left and right of the middle creating corners and a square outline. The colour and pattern match that of the band.


• A long rectangular front panel extending from the neckline down to about the groin area. This vertical piece usually ends in a triangle, arrow or other distinct motif creating a medallion effect. The patterns and motif match those on the rest of the tarchibah Tarchībah: (Arabic: tarkībah: to fix or add on). In the UAE the term refers to ready-made silver embroidered dress parts, mainly the neckline (ḥalj) or sleeve cuffs (ḥyūl) on garments, imported from India before the 1970s. Because of its high value, it was transferred from a garment to another (jal’), or its silver was melted and sold when needed. The letter (kāf) in some Arabic regions is colloquially pronounced (cha). The term is also more widely used elsewhere to refer to any added applications such as ruffles or belts..

The outer edge of the tarchibah Tarchībah: (Arabic: tarkībah: to fix or add on). In the UAE the term refers to ready-made silver embroidered dress parts, mainly the neckline (ḥalj) or sleeve cuffs (ḥyūl) on garments, imported from India before the 1970s. Because of its high value, it was transferred from a garment to another (jal’), or its silver was melted and sold when needed. The letter (kāf) in some Arabic regions is colloquially pronounced (cha). The term is also more widely used elsewhere to refer to any added applications such as ruffles or belts. is decorated with a row of embroidered motifs to hide the stitching line and to create a soft transition between the different elements of the garment.

Minaqad

Means decorated with silver coins and is derived from the word naqid or naqud meaning money. Minaqad is achieved by interlacing fabric with silver ribbons to form small, coin-shaped dots. It is only applied to open weave fabric as it has to be perforated and can thus only be used for a shaylah Shaylah: (Colloquial Gulf Arabic), a length of fabric used as shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , head cover or veil. Also known as (wigāyah) or (milfa Milfa’: (Arabic: to cover), shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  or veil worn by women in the Arab Gulf regions and some areas of the Levant to cover the head.’), generally made from sheer fabrics such as tulle (tūr), cotton gauze (wasmah Wasmah: (Arabic: woad), is derived from the woad herb (wasmah) used to dye the cotton gauze black. It is mainly used for headcovers or veils and overgarments in most of the Arab gulf region.) (nidwah) or (Nīl), or silk chiffon (sarī). or a thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  . It is sometimes called ghindah and is mostly produced in Bahrain and the al-Ahsa region of Saudi Arabia.

A strip of silver is passed through two adjacent eyelets of the fabric with the ends bent back like a staple to secure it to the fabric. More pieces are then applied on top, first at a 90-degree angle and then at 45 degrees to form a star-shaped dot. These dots are placed in different linear formations to create patterns and motifs along the edge of a shaylah Shaylah: (Colloquial Gulf Arabic), a length of fabric used as shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , head cover or veil. Also known as (wigāyah) or (milfa Milfa’: (Arabic: to cover), shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  or veil worn by women in the Arab Gulf regions and some areas of the Levant to cover the head.’), generally made from sheer fabrics such as tulle (tūr), cotton gauze (wasmah Wasmah: (Arabic: woad), is derived from the woad herb (wasmah) used to dye the cotton gauze black. It is mainly used for headcovers or veils and overgarments in most of the Arab gulf region.) (nidwah) or (Nīl), or silk chiffon (sarī). or on the neckline or sleeves of a thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  .

Imkhawar or Imzaray

Refers to machine embroidery and is also sometimes referred to as Khwar Khwār: (colloquial, UAE) refers to machine embroidery in silk thread (brīsam), gold metallic coil (zarī), or pure silver coil (khwār_tūlah). It typically decorates the neckline opening (ḥalj) and sleeve cuffs of the tunic (kandūrah), the chest (bidḥah) on the overgarment (thawb) or ankle-cuffs of underpants (sarwāl).  It is also known as (mkhawar Mkhawar: (colloquial, UAE) refers to machine embroidery in silk thread (brīsam), gold metallic coil (zarī), or pure silver coil (khwār_tūlah). It typically decorates the neckline opening (ḥalj) and sleeve cuffs of the tunic (kandūrah), the chest (bidḥah) on the overgarment (thawb) or ankle-cuffs of underpants (sarwāl).  It is also known as (khwār), (takhwīr), (dag), or (ḍarb).), (takhwīr), (dag), or (ḍarb). (origin unknown) or Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. , a reference to the Indian term for metal embroidery thread. As metallic threads are usually used in machine embroidery the term has become interchangeable and may refer to both the technique and the thread.

As a lining is used to support the heavy machine embroidery on the delicate fabric, this style of embellishment is often more rigid than the surrounding more delicate fabric. The linings are cut in the same shape as the embroidery, only wider, creating a ‘shadow’ underneath. Previously only white calico was used for the lining but today coloured satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. that matches the colour of the garment are used.

Shak Shak: (Arabic: to prick with a needle), Colloquially in the Arab gulf region it refers to the art of hand embellishing garments with beads.

Embroidery used to affix ribbons, beads, sequins and stones to fabric. The term is derived from the word shaka or yashuku meaning to prick with a needle.  These designs often originate from India and Pakistan via the tailors and embroiderers from these countries based in the Gulf. Different names are given to different types and styles of embroidery based on the type of beads and stones used.

Imfasas

This is a more modern style of decoration and refers to gemstones. During the 1980s coloured crystal gemstones in all shapes and sizes became popular. These stones have a glue backing and can be ironed onto fabric. It is available as individual stones to create your own designs or as readymade designs and clusters to be attached to cuffs, necklines and hems of thawbs and abayas or as border decorations on a shaylah Shaylah: (Colloquial Gulf Arabic), a length of fabric used as shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. , head cover or veil. Also known as (wigāyah) or (milfa Milfa’: (Arabic: to cover), shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool.  or veil worn by women in the Arab Gulf regions and some areas of the Levant to cover the head.’), generally made from sheer fabrics such as tulle (tūr), cotton gauze (wasmah Wasmah: (Arabic: woad), is derived from the woad herb (wasmah) used to dye the cotton gauze black. It is mainly used for headcovers or veils and overgarments in most of the Arab gulf region.) (nidwah) or (Nīl), or silk chiffon (sarī)..

Maghribi

Refers to a Moroccan style of embellishment introduced in the UAE in the late 1980s. It consists of various thicknesses of rope-like threads or ribbons that are attached to fabric through a combination of knots and needlework with lace or crochet Crochet: (French: croc - hook), a handicraft technique that involves using a hooked needle to create interlocking loops of yarn or thread to make a variety of items such as garments, accessories, and home decor.  appearance. These garments are made in Morocco and imported to the UAE.

Kroshay

The Arabian version of crochet Crochet: (French: croc - hook), a handicraft technique that involves using a hooked needle to create interlocking loops of yarn or thread to make a variety of items such as garments, accessories, and home decor.  introduced to the UAE in the 2000s. Sometimes crystal beads are added in the trim or on the end of fringes.

As with fashion in other parts of the world, the women of the UAE were constantly being influenced by new inventions and global trends. The combination of rapid economic growth and a proud adherence to tradition and culture in the UAE allowed women to incorporate modern trends and new inventions in fashion and embellishments from both the East and the West into their way of dressing, creating a unique heritage that we here at the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Foundation is privileged to promote and protect.