The Zay Initiative:Al Farukhah: Unravelling Its Role in Emirati Dress

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Al Farukhah: Unravelling Its Role in Emirati Dress

In a previous post about the head cap (), we mentioned how the word tarbūshah is locally used in some parts of the UAE to refer to the decorative tassel () or (karkushah) on the tunic () or () worn by men. Although the has become a defining characteristic of the modern Emirati , it has largely been neglected in both research and literature. In this blog post, we aim to shed light on its origins, history, and cultural significance by delving into its evolution. We will examine various theories regarding its purpose and trace its development alongside the Emirati . Through this short exploration, we hope to gain a clearer understanding of the ’s past, present, and potential future within Emirati culture, thus contributing to the growing body of knowledge surrounding Emirati dress.

Traditional men’s dress in the UAE

In his book "Traditional Men's Attire in the UAE and Oman," Dr. Nasser Al Aboudi provides an analysis that traces the origins of the traditional dress worn by men in the UAE back to 300 years ago. Drawing on historical accounts that detail the social, political, and economic circumstances of the region and its neighbouring Gulf states, Dr. Al Aboudi posits that the attire’s introduction was likely influenced by the area’s climate. He further suggests that the ’s continued usage can be attributed to its affordability and the lack of viable alternatives that are suitable for the region’s unique climate.

The Emirati kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.

Before we delve into the , we must briefly examine the Emirati which features a collarless design and a comfortably loose fit that flows over the body in an A-line silhouette reaching the ankles. The sleeves maintain a consistent width from shoulder to wrist, accentuated by triangular gussets that seamlessly connect the body and sleeves. Adding a touch of refinement, some tunics (kanādīr) feature a delicately hanging tassel, known as the , adorning the rounded neckline.

Source: الازياء الشعبية الرجالية في دولة الإمارات وسلطنة عمان

What is the farukhah Farūkhah (Arabic: farkh: chick, synonym: farkhah Farkhah (Arabic: farkh: chic, synonym: farukhah) colloquially in UAE & Oman it refers to a braided tassel hung on men’s tunic (kandurah/dishdashah) neckline.) colloquially in UAE & Oman, it refers to a braided tassel hung on men’s tunic (kandurah/dishdashah) neckline.?

The term () likely originates from (farkh, pl. firākh) meaning a young chick or a small version of a larger object. In the context of the , it refers to an ornament. The consists of an upper triangular fabric resembling a tongue (lsān) and a cascading tassel known as karkushah. Over time, the simple tassel evolved into a cluster of intricately braided threads with varying lengths. The is attached to the using the two-layered tongue lsan, secured by buttons. The lsan stretches from the neckline cascades down the front placket, and is cinched by a plastic button or decorative cotton ball (‘iqmah). The length of the can range from around 15 cm to over 30 cm, reaching below the navel area.

Source: الازياء الشعبية الرجالية في دولة الإمارات وسلطنة عمانEarly photographs from the pre-oil era in the UAE show primitive versions of the . Mostly, just a cluster of a few short threads tied together on the right side of the neckline of some kanadir. These diminutive ornaments are almost unrecognisable from the refined styles that emerged after the millennium. The origin and purpose of the are both the subject of various theories. Some consider it purely decorative, while others believe Bedouins used it to swat away insects. There is even a legend that suggests travellers would scent their to evoke memories of home.

As an expert in the field, Dr. Al Aboudi has met and regularly interacted with known tailors in Sharjah, many of whom have since departed from this world. He recorded notable individuals including Mohammed Akbari, Hussein Abdul Rasool, Abadan Abdul Hussein, Ghuloom Karimi, Mohsen bin Abdullah, and Al-Mada. Based on his records, Dr., Al Aboudi states that the , as we know it today, was not commonly used in Omani or Emirati tunics. The triangular portion or tongue (lsan) appeared in the 1960s, with the tassel (karkushah) added later in the 1970s. While some tailors used the lsan, others never incorporated the tassel (karkushah). The question remains: Where did it come from?

From bisht Bisht: (Arabic: bjd or bjād: cloak, Akkadian: bishtu or Persian: back, pl. bshūt synonyms: ‘Abā,‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, dafah Daffah : (Arabic: side, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, bisht or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function., or mishlaḥ), long, wide, and sleeveless outer cloak worn in public by men. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function. to kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.?

According to Dr. Al Aboudi's observations, the origins of the tassel (karkushah) can be traced back to its relative, the golden metal braid () found on the intricate embroidery () that adorns the sides of the central lapel () on the outer cloak known as the . Within this opulent embroidery, one can find exquisite tassels (‘amayil) meticulously crafted from the same lustrous metallic () thread. An example of this can be explored in the digital archive of The Initiative, showcasing the artistry of these intricate embellishments.

View in the Digital ArchiveDr. Al Aboudi speculates that in the 1970s, tailors from Asian countries such as Bangladesh, India, or Pakistan, perhaps unaware of the traditional significance, added the tassel as an embellishment to the tunic . Over time, this decorative trend gained popularity among young Emiratis, looking to express their individuality, becoming a cherished style statement. The Collection showcases a remarkable 1979 Emirati featuring an elongated that gracefully extends down to the navel, showcasing the evolution of this aesthetic choice.

View in the Digital ArchiveMoreover, it is worth considering that the UAE leadership's post-millennial endeavour to identify and preserve traditional heritage may have inadvertently contributed to the elevation of the 's status. As these efforts sought to cultivate and promote cultural legacies, the became not only a cherished craft but also a cultural attraction.

Emirati official greeting the U.S. Secretary of Defense in 2018 - source: flickr

The Significance of the farukhah Farūkhah (Arabic: farkh: chick, synonym: farkhah Farkhah (Arabic: farkh: chic, synonym: farukhah) colloquially in UAE & Oman it refers to a braided tassel hung on men’s tunic (kandurah/dishdashah) neckline.) colloquially in UAE & Oman, it refers to a braided tassel hung on men’s tunic (kandurah/dishdashah) neckline. today and into the future

While acknowledging that the tassel () may not hold widespread significance in the history of Emirati attire, Dr. Al Aboudi emphasises the undeniable role of the tunic () as a symbol of identity and heritage for Emirati men. In an increasingly globalised world with a significant expatriate population in the UAE, this traditional garment serves as a powerful reminder of Emirati belonging and connection to their cultural legacy. In essence, the may exemplify how traditional clothing can organically evolve through serendipitous cultural exchange. Through this exploration of the 's short history in Emirati men's dress, we hope to have shed some light on the tassel that is increasingly becoming an intrinsic part of it. Share your thoughts and questions in the comments below, and make sure to subscribe to our newsletter for further insights into Arab dress and culture.

Acknowledgment:

We are grateful for the expertise of Dr. Nasser Al Aboudi, author of and his informative responses to questions posed by .

About Dr. Nasser Hussein Al Aboudi

Nasser Hussein Al Aboudi was born in 1955 in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates. He pursued higher education at the University of Baghdad, earning a bachelor's degree in Ancient Archaeology in 1977. Throughout his career, Dr. Al Aboudi has been a prolific writer, publishing eight books and more than 105 studies and research papers in the fields of archaeology, heritage, and museums.

Dr. Al Aboudi has held various significant positions, including Director of the Ajman Information and Culture Office, and Head of the Archaeology Department in Dubai. Most recently, he served as the Director of Archaeology and Museums and was appointed as the Director of the Department of Archaeology and Heritage in the Sharjah Department of Culture and Information. Among Dr. Al Aboudi's published works are books covering topics such as the archaeology of Sharjah, traditional Emirati men's clothing, studies on the UAE's heritage and archaeology, and the Al Bidya Mosque. His contributions to the field have been widely recognised, and he has held memberships in various prestigious organisations related to history, heritage, and archaeology.

Sources:

‏الأزياء عند العرب عبر العصور المتعاقبة - الدكتور عبد العزيز حميد صالح

Omani Men’s National Dress: Displaying Personal Taste, Asserting National Identity - Aisa Martinez

Mens Dress in the Arabian Peninsula: Historical and Present Perspectives

Textiles and personal adornment in the Arabian Peninsula: papers from the special session of the Seminar for Arabian Studies held on 29 July 2016

Thermal insulation and clothing area factors of typical Arabian Gulf clothing ensembles for males and females: measurements using thermal manikins

The misrepresentation of Arab gulf men through costumes on stage and screen - Abdulmajeed Aldoukhi

History of the kandura: how the traditional Emirati dress has evolved in the last 100 years

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Traditional men’s dress in the UAE

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About Dr. Nasser Hussein Al Aboudi

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