The Zay Initiative:A Tangled Web of Metal Part 1

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A Tangled Web of Metal Part 1

Introduction:

The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection offers a rich tapestry Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. of cultural textiles from the Pan-Arab world, reflecting its interconnectedness with neighbouring cultures, including the Indian subcontinent, Persian and Central Asian regions, Eastern Europe, and the Near East, as well as the Mediterranean European and Sub-Saharan African cultures. Amongst the myriad of artistic expressions found in these textiles, metal thread embroidery emerges as a recurrent and fascinating decorative element, known by various names and techniques across the region and holds a significant place in the region’s textile heritage. However, the terminology and techniques associated with metal thread embroidery vary vastly from region to region, often leading to confusion and controversies.

This essay explores the nuances of various metal thread embroideries and its diverse expressions within the Arab world focusing on the Pan-Arab terms ‘talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

’, ‘’, ‘ghabani’, ‘shugl al tail’, and ‘taḥrīry’ and their variations, aiming to define and differentiate between them and their counterparts from around the world.

However, to grasp the intricacies of the different embroidery techniques, one must have a precise comprehension of the diverse terms employed to denote metal threads across the Arab world. While there is no uniform term for metal thread across the Arab world, borrowed terms often align with those used in regions adjacent to other cultures. For instance, in the Arabian Peninsula, it may be referred to as ‘zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. ,’ akin to the term frequently used in India. However, ‘zar,’ meaning gold in Persian, roots the term. Strangely, in Iraq, metal thread is oddly labelled as ‘kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

’, a word directly borrowed from Hindustani, specifically kalabattu / kalabattun, signifying gold or silver threads. This term is believed to have a Dravidian connection, where ‘battu’ may have originated from ‘pattu’ / ‘patt,’ denoting fine fibre or silk. Other sources suggest a Sanskrit link, with the Sanskrit word ‘kalavatu’ meaning fine materials.

Likewise, one frequently encounters the term ‘talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

,’ which can sometimes denote the thread or yarn itself, but more commonly refers to the embroidery technique.

Defining Talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
and Its Variations:

The term ‘talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

’ is derived from the Turkish word ‘tel,’ meaning wire or string. This craft is highly esteemed in the Arabian Peninsula, particularly in the UAE, and enjoys widespread popularity in the southern and southwestern regions of Iran, particularly around Bandar Abbas. Traditionally, women in these areas would skilfully weave trimmings of varying widths by braiding flat metal wire or , threads, and ribbons. These intricately crafted trimmings, consisting of multiple layers, were then meticulously sewn onto fabric panels cut in specific patterns, such as sleeves or trouser cuffs, chest panels, and necklines. Subsequently, these adorned panels would be stitched onto the garments chosen for festive occasions, only to be later detached and removed. Interestingly, these removable panels acquired the term “badla” – not to be confused with the embroidery technique – in the Gulf Arab countries, a word possibly derived from the Hindustani term ‘badal,’ meaning to change.

A ‘talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
’ embellished pair of trousers, southern Iran c. 20thcentury; Acc No: ZI2018.500796 ASIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, https://thezay.org/product/zi2018-500796-iranmetal-embellished-trousers-iran/

Close up of a ‘talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
’ embellished pair of trousers, southern Iran c. 20th century; Acc No: ZI2018.500796 ASIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, https://thezay.org/product/zi2018-500796-iranmetal-embellished-trousers-iran/

However, the term ‘talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

’ also denotes another distinct form of embroidery. This involves creating a sequence of small knots using flat beaten metal wire or on a woven fabric, typically sheer materials such as net, tulle, chiffon, , or . Besides the Arab world, this technique is prevalent in the Indian subcontinent and Iran. In India, it is renowned as ‘badla,’ a term believed to have originated from the Hindustani word ‘bādal,’ signifying cloud, as the lustrous metal atop sheer fabric resembles a cloud with a silver lining. In Iran, it is famously known as ‘ dozi,’ where ‘’ denotes the flat metal thread, and ‘dozi’ translates to needlework in Persian.

Considering the vastness of the Arabic lexicon, it is not unexpected that this specific embroidery style is known by various regional names. For instance, in the Levant, particularly in Lebanon, it is referred to as ‘tariq,’ while in Egypt, it is known as ‘tulle bi talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

,’ signifying metal on tulle.

Close up of a ‘tulle bi talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
’ embellished veil, Egypt c. 1920s; Acc No: ZI2018.500126. EGYPT; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, https://tinyurl.com/mr3ndymm

In our exploration of metal thread embroidery techniques associated with the Turkish term ‘tel,’ it is worth noting ’tilla dozi.’ Although not practiced within the Arab world, this esteemed craftsmanship has found a place within Arab society, particularly through its application in the shawls that men frequently don over their heads during the winter months.

Hailing from the Indian subcontinent, particularly the Kashmir region, it entails couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

flat beaten metal threads onto the fabric’s surface, often delicate , creating the illusion that the metal is intricately woven into the fabric. Widely utilised for embellishing borders, hems, necklines, and cuffs, it exemplifies a meticulous and ornate aesthetic.

Ottoman-era Techniques – Dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery. or Sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud.:

Similar to its eastern counterparts, the Arab world was significantly influenced by its western neighbour, particularly Ottoman Turkey. At its zenith, the Ottoman Empire extended across three continents, acting as the nexus between the East and the West—encompassing the Fertile Crescent, the Levant, Eastern Europe (including the Balkans to the southern reaches of the Great Hungarian Plain), Northern Africa, and the Eastern Mediterranean.

Following the conquest of the Arab world around 1516-1517 CE, Ottoman dominance in the Middle East endured for four centuries until the early 20th century, marked by World War I and the Arab Revolt. Throughout these four centuries, numerous instances of reciprocal cultural influences and exchanges unfolded between the Arab and Ottoman realms. The convergence of Arab and Turkish cultures is evident in various aspects, including social life and the realms of decorative and performing arts, showcasing a harmonious blending over the centuries.

Similar to how European fashion frequently drew inspiration from the French court, the amalgamation of socio-cultural influences between Ottoman Turkey and the Middle East was distinctly evident in their fashion and material culture, noticeably adopted from Istanbul.

Among the most renowned and recognisable metal thread embroidery techniques from the Ottoman era is the ‘dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery..’ The technique represents a sophisticated and intricate form of embroidery, encompassing various stages from pattern creation to the final execution. The process involves intricately carving the pattern from artificial leather using a specialised knife, followed by precise cutting and reinforcement with thick cardboard on a designated loom.

A ‘dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery.’ or ‘sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud.’ embroidered entari Entāri: (Turkish; Synonym: Antari), a traditional Turkish long jacket-like unisex garment worn during the Ottoman era. It often featured an open front with long sleeves and was worn over an undershirt and a pair of trousers and was sometimes layered by a short waist or hip-length jacket. , Türkiye c. 19th – 20thcentury; Acc No: ZI2021.500972.4 ASIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, https://thezay.org/product/zi2021-500972-4-asia-metal-embellished-velvet-jacket-turkiye/

Closeup of a ‘dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery.’ or ‘sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud.’ embroidered entari Entāri: (Turkish; Synonym: Antari), a traditional Turkish long jacket-like unisex garment worn during the Ottoman era. It often featured an open front with long sleeves and was worn over an undershirt and a pair of trousers and was sometimes layered by a short waist or hip-length jacket. , Türkiye c. 19th– 20th century; Acc No: ZI2021.500972.4 ASIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, https://thezay.org/product/zi2021-500972-4-asia-metal-embellished-velvet-jacket-turkiye/

Subsequently, the top part undergoes meticulous embroidery with either 3 or 6 layers of metal thread, commonly known as sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. in Turkish, while the bottom is secured with fabric-coloured thread that has been waxed. This labour-intensivemethod resembles the Turkish wrapping technique on the front, coupled with a reverse crocheting process.

A ‘dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery.’ or ‘sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud.’ embroidered thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. mekhmal or bil sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud., Palestine c. late 19th century; Acc No: ZI2019.500643a PALESTINE; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, Link

A ‘dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery.’ or ‘sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud.’ embroidered thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. , Mharda, Hama region, Syria c. early 20th century; Acc No: ZI2023.501016.2 SYRIA; Source: The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection, Link

A distinguishing characteristic of dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery. embroidery is the invisibility of the upper thread from the bottom, showcasing a meticulous craftsmanship. Often referred to as “Maraş work,” owing to its widespread application in Kahramanmaraş, this technique initially relied on manual dexterity. The materials used for dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery. embroidery encompass a range of fabric types such as velvet, satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk., leather, silk, and taffeta

Taffeta: (Persian: tāftan – to shine), a plain woven fabric with a crisp and smooth finish and feel on both sides traditionally woven with silk yarns. Traditionally, taffeta fabric has been known for making European women’s court dress especially and became particularly famous under the patronage of Madame de Pompadour.

. The cost of the embroidered fabric varies based on factors like pattern size and the intricacy of the processing technique.

The term ‘dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery.’ in Turkish is thought to trace its origins to the Persian word ‘divān,’ meaning throne or council chamber, spaces often adorned with lavish seating arrangements. The opulence and luxurious quality of dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch and gimped couching style embroidery. embroidery made it well-suited for royal courts, possibly explaining the choice of a term derived from the Persian term for a council chamber. Interestingly, while the Turkish term “sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ,” derived from the Greek word “súrō,” meaning to draw, specifically denotes the metal wire or yarn utilised in embroidery, the Arab world refers to the embroidery technique or style as “sarma Ṣarma: (colloquially). Perhaps the word comes from the verb “sarama” meaning the piece of rope. Sarma: a kind of dense embroidery that is done with golden or silver threads in a way that completely covers the fabric, adding to it luxury and splendor. The embroidery is often three-dimensional, with a cotton padding wrapped in golden threads to create the height to the overall shape of the embroidery. Historically, Damascus was famous for it. It is believed that its origin is from India, and its name there is Sharma, then it moved to many countries, including Turkey, and its name there is Sirma Sirma: (Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion, from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Tel_sirma Tel_sirma: (Ottoman Turkish: tel – wire, thread, chord; Byzantine Greek: súrma – a dragging motion from Ancient Greek: súrō – to draw; Synonym: Sirma), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. ), a metal lace or thread traditionally made of silver or gold and sometimes even copper often used textile embellishments such as embroidery and weaves like brocades. , while in Algeria the name is Majboud.,” adopting the Turkish term for wire.

The talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

and represent just two of the prominent metal thread embroidery techniques in the Arab world. Other noteworthy techniques that warrant attention include the Syrian ‘ghabani’ or ‘,’ as well as ‘shugl al tail’ and Palestinian ‘taḥrīry,’ which we shall be focusing in our next instalment.

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