As part of our webinar series Dialogues on the Art of Arab Fashion, our guest, UAE-based UK artist, Patricia Millns talked to Dr Reem el Mutwalli about the role inspirational adornment plays in her art practice. Patricia shared how life in the Middle East and her friendships with Arab women informed her art career. Patricia Millns
Image credit: Emirates Women Magazine

Patricia Millns

It was while researching her P.hd in Medieval art almost 40 years ago that Patricia, who was born and raised in the UK, first visited the Middle East. Her research took her to Kuwait where she studied the al-Sabah Collection at the National Museum of Kuwait.

I was welcomed at the airport with a handful of jasmine, and when they asked me to stay, I did.

Patricia now works from her studio in Dubai. Initially inspired by the complex repetition of imagery within Islamic art and design systems, Patricia’s work developed into a study of symbolism within the cultural, textile and olfactory heritage of the region, focusing on woman’s studies and the significance of dress and adornment.

“My work changed when I came to the Middle East. I became very inspired by the world of women. The art world in England wasn’t a women’s world. Although I was studying talismanic and totemic symbols, I came to realise that clothing, in particular, the clothing of women was a vehicle of identity, even on a theoretical and academic level. Unlike Western clothing, the clothing of Arabia has deeper family connections, and it contained the wearer’s story. That is why, with only one exception, I don’t use the figure in my art. The woman is obvious in her absence.”

Patricia and Dr Reem’s conversation centred around a series of Patricia’s artworks and installations juxtaposed by items from the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection. Three themes – scent, stories, and immersion or participation - emerged that are present in both the artworks and the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection as well as in the lives of the women of Arabia.

Fragrance and carrying stories is a theme that runs through my work. Most of my work is interactive. I like the viewer to walk through my work and experience it.

Here we focus on only a few key pieces discussed during the talk, highlighting the themes of scent, story, and immersion.

Scent

In Emra’a Sequence, a steel mesh, space-specific installation exhibited in Tashkeel Dubai in 2009, Patricia reflects on the hospitality and sense of home that the Arab woman carries with her in the form of dress and fragrance. These dresses made from mesh contained items emanating the scents and fragrances of home, starting with rosewater, then flowers and culinary herbs, culminating in the smell of coffee. According to Patricia, the installation represented the ‘olfactory library of home.’ Emra'a Sequence - Tashkeel Dubai 2016
Image credit: Patricia Millns In the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection, scent and fragrance are preserved as part of a garment’s story. A unique item in the collection is a tunic dress or kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. arabiyah that used to belong to the late Hamdah bint Matar al Muri, the wife of Ali Matar Obaid al Dhabah al Suwaidi, and was donated to the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. by her granddaughter who requested that the dress be preserved with a vial of her grandmother’s perfume, to ensure that the garment continues to carry her scent, and thus her story. Kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. Arabiyah and perfume of Hamdah bint Matar al Muri - The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection

Frangrance is complex. It is built in layers. Like stories. A women’s fragrance is her story.

Stories

In Adornment Second Skin, made of hand-stitched Japanese paper tea bags, exhibited at Alserkal Dubai in 2016, Patricia focused on unspoken stories. Each tea bag contained a handwritten note telling one woman’s story related to her clothes and subtly imbued with her fragrance. It created understated metaphors in its simplicity as it honours the unseen dimensions of women’s lives. Adornment Second Skin - Alserkal Dubai 2016
Image credit: Patricia Millns These unseen dimensions are perfectly illustrated by this Hashmi

Hashmī: (Arabic: Hashim (House of) – an Arab royal family from the Banu Hashim clan of the Quraysh tribe), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb from Iraq that was named after the royal family that ruled Iraq until the mid 20th century.

Thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  . It had a long journey across generations before the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative became its honoured custodian. It was owned by Maedah Sabih al-Khdairi, daughter of Hajj Sabih al-Khudairi, son of Yassin Basha al-Khudairi, an Iraqi merchant and politician who was a member of the Senate and advisor to King Faisal I. Maedah was born in Baghdad in 1924 and obtained a BA in Arabic Language from Queen Alia University in Iraq. This garment was hand-stitched in Basra in 1940 and was later handed down to Maedah’s daughter, Alia Anwar Al-Qaymakji, who gave it to her daughter Maryam Istabraq al-Imam, who presented it to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative for safekeeping and preservation for the next generation of women in Maedah’s family. Hashmi

Hashmī: (Arabic: Hashim (House of) – an Arab royal family from the Banu Hashim clan of the Quraysh tribe), a type of elaborately decorated women’s traditional garment or thawb from Iraq that was named after the royal family that ruled Iraq until the mid 20th century.

Thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   worn by 3 generations of Maedah Sabih al-Khdairi's family - The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection

The hospitality of walking into a home and being welcomed with rosewater fills my spirit.

Immersion

Patricia does not only portray the stories of the women of Arabia in her work but also involves them in her projects. For her, immersion is not only for the viewer or observer but also for the Arab women, storytellers, and participants of her work. Every story, every garment, every scent and fragrance are obtained from a woman that Patricia knows in person. Someone she relates to, whose story she knows and share, and who’s lives had inexplicably became entwined with hers. she’s leaving home…
performance for UAE state visit of HM Queen Elizabeth Abu Dhabi 2010
Image credit: Patricia Millns In the same way, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collects not only garments and items of clothing, we collect the story and the narrative that goes with it. For every item in our collection, we preserve the provenance, the history, images, and personal anecdotes of those who lived with these garments. Every garment in the collection comes with a scent, a story, and the experience of a real Arab woman

As Arab women, we carry our wealth - our individuality as well as what we own - on our bodies through our clothes, jewellery and perfume. Here we’ve seen it through Patricia’s interpretations of it, and we see it daily in its original format through the collection. With the digital archive, we are now creating the opportunity for these stories to have a global audience.
Dr Reem el Mutwalli

Just like a hint of fragrance or a quote from a story, this post can not fully represent the essence of the conversation between Patricia Millns and Dr Reem el Mutwalli. To immerse yourself in the rich stories of Arab women and their dress, sign up to our mailing list. That way you will always be part of the conversation. More information on upcoming events can be found here.