Previously on Is it a Robe? Is it a Jacket? No, It’s a Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. !
We have had the opportunity to gain insights into the historical evolution of the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , tracing its origins and understanding its profound cultural significance. Throughout our exploration, we have witnessed how the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. has evolved over centuries, influenced by a myriad of factors such as geography, climate, trade, cultural interactions, natural disasters, and shifts in societal norms. While our previous investigations have primarily focused on kimonos exclusively designed for women, it is essential to acknowledge the existence of kimonos specifically tailored for men, as well as other traditional garments that are worn by individuals of both genders in Japan. In this segment of our series, we shall embark on an examination of some of these distinct garments and accompanying accessories.
An indigo Indigo: (Latin: Indigo – India, synonym: nil Nīl: (Latin: indigo), Arabised term for Indigo, a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that have been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye.), a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that has been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye. dyed cotton yukata; “Tie and dyed cotton women’s robe”, c. mid 20th century, Japan; Acc No: ZI2017.500840 ASIA, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
A yarn dyed cotton ikat Ikat: (Indonesian and Malay: Chord, thread, bundle; Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , adras Adras: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. – silk; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. ), is a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions in Southeast Asia, Central Asia, the Indian subcontinent and Central America it probably originated independently around the world. yukata; “Yarn dyed cotton women’s robe”, c. mid 20th century, Japan; Acc No: ZI2017.500842 ASIA, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
The term (yukata) quite literally translates to “bath clothes,” although its contemporary utility transcends the confines of bath attire. It represents the quintessential unlined traditional garment, characterized by shorter sleeves, typically fashioned from cotton, linen, or hemp materials, rendering it ideal for warm-weather seasons. These attractive, more often than not indigo Indigo: (Latin: Indigo – India, synonym: nil Nīl: (Latin: indigo), Arabised term for Indigo, a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that have been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye.), a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that has been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye. dyed blue and white kimonos finds favour among individuals of varying age groups and serves as an apparel choice for a multitude of informal occasions, including sojourns at ryokans or traditional Japanese inns or onsen or hot springs, participation in Japanese traditional festivals such as the summer festival matsuri and the fireworks festival hanabitaikai, engagement in sundry summer pastimes, or simply meandering during the summer months.
During the mid-Edo period, a sophisticated stencil printing technique was innovated, specifically tailored for the production of yukata, a traditional kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. that continues to be worn universally by both men and women in contemporary Japan. Originally crafted from bast-fibre fabrics such as hemp, yukata initially retained their status as bathrobes and were not donned for public outings until the later stages of the Edo period – 1603-1868 CE.
As the 19th century dawned, religious practitioners began to adopt water-based purification rituals, subsequently inspiring the samurai and nobility to embrace this practice. The unsuitability of silk for such aquatic rituals necessitated the transition to cotton or linen-like fabrics. This transformation extended beyond the upper echelons of society and permeated into the middle and lower strata, resulting in the establishment of public bathhouses in Tokyo. Consequently, individuals who walked from their residences to these communal bathing facilities began to exhibit a preference for more ornate yukata, which were suitable for public display.
Nonetheless, the iconic blue and white colour scheme of the yukata did not emerge until the advent of large-scale cotton production in Japan. As cotton became a ubiquitous household commodity, artisans specializing in finishing processes, including dyers and printers, came to recognize indigo Indigo: (Latin: Indigo – India, synonym: nil Nīl: (Latin: indigo), Arabised term for Indigo, a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that have been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye.), a natural dye belonging to the ‘Indigofera Tinctoria’ species of plants that has been cultivated in East Asia, Egypt, India, and Peru since antiquity. According to Pliny the Elder, it was named after India as it was the source of the dye. ’s innate compatibility with cotton fibres. This marked the inception of the enduring union between the yukata and the timeless shades of blue and white.
Front and Back of a printed silk nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. ; “Resist printed men’s under robe”, c. early 20th century, Japan; Acc No: ZI2017.500841 ASIA, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, http://tinyurl.com/335bz6wx
An under garment for a kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. is worn to keep the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. from getting dirty and is often an unlined garment made of lightweight fabric. It is also worn by both men and women and is usually shorter in length than a regular kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. typically falling at the ankle and is secured above the waist level with a tie.
An essential undergarment for the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , the nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. exhibits distinct characteristics in its design and composition. Its sleeves typically remain unsealed along the entire cuff side, with only a few stitches connecting both sides at the juncture where a conventional kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. ’s sleeve cuff would end. These sleeves lack any curvature along the outer edge, maintaining a square shape. Furthermore, the nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. ’s length is generally slightly shorter than that of a kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. when worn. Its lack of any surplus length and overlapping panels in the front and a collar set at a lower angle compared to a standard kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. does not allow the front fold or oshashori. It is noteworthy that nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. serve as foundational undergarments and are worn beneath various types of kimonos, excluding the yukata.
Nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. are typically constructed from lightweight materials, with silk being a common choice. Women’s nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. can exhibit either patterns or a plain surface, with contemporary variants frequently adopting a white colouration. Conversely, men’s nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. are often dyed in dark hues and may be fashioned from the same fabric as the outer kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , as certain kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. fabric bolts are woven with sufficient length to accommodate this dual usage. Men’s nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. frequently boast greater ornamentation than their female counterparts, frequently featuring intricately dyed pictorial scenes on the upper back panel.
The term nagajuban Nagajuban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban, juban), is an under kimono worn by both men and women. Usually shorter in length than the kimono, they are typically unlined and made of lightweight fabric. is a compound word formed by merging naga, signifying long, and juban Juban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban), is a type of men’s traditional undergarment in Japan. A long-sleeved, ankle-length robe traditionally made of cotton, linen, or silk in solid colours or simple pattern it is worn to protect the kimono from sweat and oil and provide an additional layer of warmth. , connoting undergarments. Intriguingly, the etymology of the latter component, juban Juban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban), is a type of men’s traditional undergarment in Japan. A long-sleeved, ankle-length robe traditionally made of cotton, linen, or silk in solid colours or simple pattern it is worn to protect the kimono from sweat and oil and provide an additional layer of warmth. , traces its roots to the Portuguese word gibao, denoting a snug-fitting doublet resembling a contemporary shirt, itself borrowed from the Arabic term jubbah.
Front and Back of a printed nagagi; “Resist printed linen men’s robe”, c. 1900, Japan; Acc No: ZI2017.500841 ASIA, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, https://tinyurl.com/5b8vsm4h
The nagagi, commonly known as ‘haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. clothing’ in the Western world, is a type of men’s kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. typically worn in combination with a haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. jacket. Crafted from materials like silk, cotton, or hemp, the nagagi distinguishes itself from traditional Japanese men’s attire by omitting the customary hakama trousers typically worn by men. This versatile garment is suitable for a range of occasions, spanning from semi-formal gatherings to casual get-togethers, including dinners with friends, informal nights out, and various relaxed social events.
Front and Back of a dyed silk haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. jacket; “Tie and dyed silk men’s jacket”, c. mid 20thcentury, Japan; Acc No: ZI2017.500483 ASIA, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, http://tinyurl.com/26hx3vdc
The (haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. ) is a traditional Japanese jacket, worn either at hip or thigh-length, and typically donned over a kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. . It lacks the overlapping front panels and features a narrower collar compared to a standard kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. and is distinguished by the addition of two slender, triangular panels sewn into each side seam. To fasten the haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. at the front, two short cords known as (haori_himo Haori_himo: (Japanese: himo – string), is a pair of cords used to fasten a haori jacket. The cords are typically made of silk and come in a variety of colours. They are tied in a decorative knot at the front of the jacket to keep it securely closed. ) are employed, attaching to small loops sewn within the garment.
With the Edo period’s, marked economic prosperity amongst the affluent yet socially lower-ranked merchant class, disposable income became abundant. A significant portion of this surplus wealth was allocated towards clothing expenditures. Restricted by various dress regulations imposed by the ruling classes, that merchant-class Japanese men during this era, prompted the usage of haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. characterized by plain external designs but adorned with lavishly decorated linings—a trend that continues to influence men’s haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. fashion to this day.
In the early 1800s, the geisha community in the Fukagawa district of Tokyo, renowned for their distinctive and stylish fashion choice, began incorporating haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. into their kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. ensembles. Up until that point, haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. had exclusively been a male garment. This trend led to the widespread adoption of haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. amongst Japanese women by the 1930s.
A woven michiyuki Michiyuki: (Japanese: michi wo yuku – to go on a road), is a type of Japanese women’s outerwear traditionally short in length with a button or snap closure, and a square collar. Often made of lightweight fabric it can be worn as a light coat or as a layering piece. ; “Woven silk women’s jacket”, c. 1939-45, Japan; Acc No: ZI2017.500482 ASIA, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, https://tinyurl.com/cpk6zvnd
This is a traditional kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. coat with a specific purpose. Designed for wear when venturing outdoors, the michiyuki Michiyuki: (Japanese: michi wo yuku – to go on a road), is a type of Japanese women’s outerwear traditionally short in length with a button or snap closure, and a square collar. Often made of lightweight fabric it can be worn as a light coat or as a layering piece. serves multiple functions: protecting the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. beneath it from dirt and moisture while providing additional warmth to the wearer. Michiyuki Michiyuki: (Japanese: michi wo yuku – to go on a road), is a type of Japanese women’s outerwear traditionally short in length with a button or snap closure, and a square collar. Often made of lightweight fabric it can be worn as a light coat or as a layering piece. coats come in various lengths, ranging from short, waist-length versions to those as long as the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. itself. Typically, they feature plain colours or subtle, understated patterns, a deliberate choice considering their intended role as a protective outer layer subjected to more wear and tear than the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. beneath.
In contrast to the haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. , another traditional kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. over-garment, michiyuki Michiyuki: (Japanese: michi wo yuku – to go on a road), is a type of Japanese women’s outerwear traditionally short in length with a button or snap closure, and a square collar. Often made of lightweight fabric it can be worn as a light coat or as a layering piece. boasts a square neckline and is typically fastened using buttons. Historically, michiyuki Michiyuki: (Japanese: michi wo yuku – to go on a road), is a type of Japanese women’s outerwear traditionally short in length with a button or snap closure, and a square collar. Often made of lightweight fabric it can be worn as a light coat or as a layering piece. has primarily been tailored for women, whereas the haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. originally served as a male garment, later adapted into a female version.
A woven obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. ; “Woven women’s waistband”, c. mid 20th century, Japan; Acc No: ZI2017.500838 ASIA, The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, NOTE: This pic is a placeholder low res one because the object has not been photographed yet professionally, https://tinyurl.com/5n6kcmbf
The obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. is a versatile belt worn in conjunction with the traditional Japanese kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. . It has evolved significantly in its size, shape, and style since its humble origins in Heian period Japan. Originally a slender and unassuming belt, the obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. has undergone a transformation, resulting in an array of diverse varieties characterized by differences in size, proportions, lengths, and tying techniques. While initially sharing a similar appearance for both genders, the obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. has diversified into a broader spectrum of styles for women compared to men over time.
The story of the obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. is a fascinating tale that sheds light on its central role in traditional kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. ensembles. In this hierarchy of attire, the obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. takes precedence over the main kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , and its significance can be traced back to its intriguing origins.
During the Kamakura era – 1185-1333 CE – women used a simple sash to secure their daily attire around their waist, a practice that endured until the Genroku period – 1688-1704 CE. These women maintained a curated collection of sashes to match their various outfits, a sensible approach to fashion at the time.
However, a pivotal transformation occurred thanks to the world of Kabuki theatre. Legend has it that a kabuki artist – male – known for portraying female roles, was exceptionally tall. To divert the audience’s attention from his towering stature while on stage, he began wearing a wide, stiff sash adorned with intricate knots, allowing it to trail behind him. This striking innovation captivated the courtesans of the era, who eagerly adopted the style, subsequently popularizing it throughout society.
Another, perhaps more accurate, theory attributes the creation of the obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. to weavers in Kyoto. The demand for elaborate brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts. fabrics waned due to Japan’s sumptuary laws, which restricted the use of such opulent textiles to the upper class. Ironically, the nobility couldn’t afford these lavish garments, and the wealthy merchant class, despite having the means, faced their own set of sumptuary limitations, including restrictions on the number of new robes they could acquire each year.
Ingeniously, the weavers in Kyoto identified a loophole in the laws. They clandestinely collaborated with theatre artists and kabuki actors to promote a new fashion trend that showcased their exquisite brocades and tapestry Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. -woven fabrics. This partnership birthed a multitude of intricate sash tying techniques, each knot coming to signify the wearer’s age and social status. For instance, courtesans – geisha – preferred to tie their obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. in the front for ease and speed of removal, while young unmarried women wore it at the back with long, flowing ends trailing behind them.
Over time, the obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. ascended to become the focal point of women’s attire, to the extent that the design of the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. itself drew inspiration from the obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. . By the 19th century, kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. embellishments were strategically placed near the hemline, allowing wearers to determine the level of extravagance in their obi Obi: (Japanese), a wide, decorative belt or sash traditionally worn with Japanese kimono. It wraps around the waist, securing the kimono and adding an elegant touch to the attire. They are often intricately designed, featuring rich patterns, textures, and colors that complement the overall kimono ensemble. , a practice that continues to shape fashion choices to this day.
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