Once, towns strewn across Turkey and Afghanistan owed their economies to the western appetite for the kaftan. During the 1970s travellers on the hippy trail brought back pottery, soft furnishings, and piles of clothes to remind them of their spiritual adventures. More than 40 years on, the kaftan has had several revivals as a key fashion piece. And, like Indian cuisine, it now seems to have been adopted as a British staple. It is the late Thea Porter, who is credited with bringing the bohemian look to London catwalks. Although Thea Porter is not as famous a name as Mary Quant or Laura Ashley, her influence on the look of her era is just as potent. Her loose, draped shapes and fabrics helped create the style of stars such as Faye Dunaway and Elizabeth Taylor in the 1970s, and they have since become forever entangled with the idea of rock-star self-indulgence. 

Excerpt from article on Acnauta Couture website

  This is a short overview of Thea Porter’s work and career based on the book Thea Porter Bohemian Chic by Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter. The book was published in 2015 and accompanied an exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London. Thea Porter in her studio. Image credit: www.countrylife.co.uk

Early Years

Dorothea Noelle Naomi Sigel was born in Jerusalem in 1927 and grew up in Syria. As a child, she was inspired by her mother’s ‘unsatisfied longing for luxury’.  Thea remembers how she accompanied her mother on visits to Suz Al-Hamidieh, the covered bazaar in Damascus.

“Trailing after her I learnt about the spices and condiments, about the bewildering variety of sweetmeats… about ice cream scented with mastic and pistachios… but also about fabrics and trimmings and buttons, and lace’ about gold, bangles and precious stones; about perfumes, scents and essential oils.”

 Thea moved to England after WW2 to finish high school and to study. It was where her awareness of clothes, fashion, and dress blossomed and she often wrote letters to her mother describing the fashion she’d seen in the streets and the outfits she chose for herself.   Untitled. Oil on Canvas, the early 1960s. Venetia Porter Collection. Image from book

Beirut Influence

Beirut during the 1950s and 1960s was known as the Paris of the Middle East. Newly married, Thea and her husband’s social circle included politicians, journalists, and artists, and they enjoyed travels to Iran, Iraq, and Jordan. Clothes played a huge part in her life and she prided herself in ‘being the best-dressed embassy wife’. Thea immersed herself in her social life, and surrounded by creative friends, she explored her creativity with art lessons culminating in four exhibitions between 1961 and 1963.

“Her paintings were abstract and full of colour’ she worked on paper and on canvas, often using collage, mirror and gold leaf.”

  coats on display in the Greek Street Shop. Made from an Iraqi samawa carpet. Photo credit: www.maudeinteriors.com

From Interior Design to Fashion Design

In 1964, Thea left both Beirut and her marriage and moved to London where she worked to establish herself as an interior designer. The uniqueness of Porter’s life experience and personal style offered her novel ways in which to blend traditional Arabian craftsmanship with Orientalist taste, and apply this new aesthetic in modern European homes. Thea Porter Decorations Ltd opened on Greek Street in Soho in 1966 just as the boho and hippy aesthetic became fashionable.

“Porter was in a unique position – she could interpret authentically this Western fascination with Middle Eastern cultures, and hence offer chic Londoners an expertly curated, highly styled sampling of wearable traditional Middle Eastern heritage.”

  For Thea, the line between home décor and fashion was blurry and she comfortably used ‘the same fabrics on women, chairs, and walls’.  Beyond upholstery fabrics, Thea also found success producing a shirtdress made from embroidered tablecloths made in Damascus. Thea’s career as a designer spanned many decades and saw her conquer the catwalks, fashion magazines, and the imagination of both celebrities and the public with her exotic sense of style.   Thea Porter kaftan worn by Babara Streisand in A Star is Born, 1976. Image credit: www.streisandstylefiles.com

Seven Signature Styles

These were not only her best-selling styles but the ones that Thea had the greatest affinity for. We will look at the three styles most closely influenced by Arab dress heritage, in more detail.

1. The Thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  * or kaftan


2. The Gipsy dress


3. The Faye dress


4. The Brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  panel dress


5. The Wrap-over dress


6. The Chazara Jacket


7. The Sirwal Sirwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , Ṣarwāl, sharwāl, salbāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  skirt

Djellaba style tunic top from African batik and Chazara jackets featuring gold brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  and velvet. Image credit: www.maudeinteriors.com

The Thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  * or kaftan

The best known of all Porter’s signature styles is based upon the thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   (mistakenly called an abaya by Thea Porter, in the book, and in general in the western lexicon) often described as a kaftan or djellaba in museum collections or at auctions.

 

The influx of various Middle Eastern or North African traditional garments into Western Europe in the 1960s, brought back from the hippie trail, resulted in any vaguely Arabic-looking robe being referred to as a kaftan… Porter’s attraction to the abaya* lay in its enveloping fabric. “I’ve always felt very envious of Arab women because they can hide behind their clothes. It is a very protected and secure way to feel.”

 

At least 25 versions of Porter’s abaya* dress were made with remarkable commercial success. They were popular for their ability to hide the body beneath the billowing folds, with transparent fabrics hinting subtly at the female form.

A Thea Porter printed chiffon dress with a central brocaded panel, 1970s. Image credit: www.kerrytaylorauctions.com

The Brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  panel dress

The play between masking and revelation also appeared in this style of dress. A long slim dress with brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  panels front and back, with see-through sides, the brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  edged with a thin braid or ribbon. First produced in 1971 and was popular with western socialites.

In her Autumn/Winter 1982 collection, Thea Porter contrasted the sirwal Sirwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , Ṣarwāl, sharwāl, salbāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  skirt with a brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  jacket and matching turban. Photographer Van Pariser. Image from book.

The Sirwal Sirwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , Ṣarwāl, sharwāl, salbāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  Skirt

drawing on the traditional sirwal Sirwāl: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Salwar Salwar: (Farsi: shalvār; Synonym: Ṣarwāl, shalwar, sharwāl, salbāl, sirwāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  , Ṣarwāl, sharwāl, salbāl, khalag), pair of trousers with tapering ankles and fastened with a draw string. Believed to have originated in Central Asia it has spread since in the Indian subcontinent between c. 1st – 3rd century BCE and the Middle East from c. 12th century.  - baggy pyjama-like trousers worn in Arabian countries, Porter interpreted it into a tightly-waisted skirt with voluminous draped folds that fell either to the knee or the ankle. "With a silhouette reminiscent of harem odalisques in Orientalist paintings, this skirt bridged the gap between fantasy and modernity". It was made from jersey and was easy to wear and pack, therefore particularly appealing to Porter's jet-setting clientele.   Three Thea Porter garments in The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection. Left: ZI2022.501001.1 UK; Middle: ZI2022.501001.2 UK; Right: ZI2022.501001.3 UK

In The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection

Dr Reem el Mutwalli acquired three items designed by Thea Porter from Kerry Taylor Auctions in 2022. This Thea Porter black silk chiffon overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ) is couture-labelled (Thea Porter Couture). The overall shape follows the style of overgarments (athwab Athwāb: (Arabic, sing. thawb), the standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. It is sometimes spelled (thobe), (thaub), or (tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ).) commonly found in different areas of the Arabian Gulf and Iraq. Composed of a central body panel sandwiched between two wide and full-length sleeve panels. A patchwork of (lamé) panels resemble stylised depictions of the gussets (bitan Bīṭān: (Arabic: underarm/armpit, sg. Bāt/ ibt, synonym: ibt, bāt, tkhrāṣah, tnfāyah, bnqīyah), gusset, a triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric inserted into the seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Used for underarms on tunic dresses, side sleeve panels on overgarments (thāwb), and undergarments (ṣarāwl). ) found on more traditional thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   versions, and form the décorative focus of the article, together with the yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  that is adorned in hand-embroidered gold and silver sequined rays. Tailoring lines and sleeve openings are edged with gold metallic braid (gitan Gītān: (Arabic: qītān: cord or shoe-lace), comes in woven/braided colored silk or metallic thread, used in hemming or embroidery. The letter (qāf) is colloquially pronounced (ga).) and two tassels (‘amayil) on each side, resembling those found on men’s outer cloaks (‘ibi ‘Ibī: (Arabic: pl. for ‘Abā: outer cloak, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, daffah, bisht or mishlaḥ), public outer cloak worn by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.). Moyra Swan is famously photographed wearing a similar thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   – with panels of identical silver and gold, art-deco patterned lamé – at Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, for British Vogue, November 1971 (photographed by Barry Lategan). This Thea Porter marigold-orange damask Dāmāsk: (Arabic: Damascus – a city in Syria), is a luxurious fabric woven with reversible patterns typically in silk, wool, linen, or cotton. Originating in China, the fabric was perhaps introduced to European traders at Damascus – a major trading post on the Silk Road with a thriving local silk industry.  silk overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ) is unlabelled. The overall shape follows the style of overgarments (athwab Athwāb: (Arabic, sing. thawb), the standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. It is sometimes spelled (thobe), (thaub), or (tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ).) commonly found in different areas of the Arabian Gulf and Iraq. Composed of a central body panel sandwiched between two wide and full-length sleeve panels. Since it self-ties with a wide waistband and has a plunging V-neckline, when worn, it visually resembles a hybrid look, a combination of both an overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ) and a Japanese kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. . The tailoring lines, neckline and sleeve openings are all edged with gold metallic braid (gitan Gītān: (Arabic: qītān: cord or shoe-lace), comes in woven/braided colored silk or metallic thread, used in hemming or embroidery. The letter (qāf) is colloquially pronounced (ga).) and four tassels (‘amayil) on each side, resembling those found on men’s outer cloaks (‘ibi ‘Ibī: (Arabic: pl. for ‘Abā: outer cloak, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, daffah, bisht or mishlaḥ), public outer cloak worn by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.). This couture labelled (Thea Porter Couture), sheer silk, overgarment (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ), is of white ground, printed in small repetitive butterfly motifs. The general shape follows the style of overgarments (athwab Athwāb: (Arabic, sing. thawb), the standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. It is sometimes spelled (thobe), (thaub), or (tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ).) commonly found in different areas of the Arabian Gulf and Iraq. Composed of a central body panel sandwiched between two wide and full-length sleeve panels. The V-neck opening is simple and devoid of any elaborate embellishment. Patchwork panels of antique (Ikat Ikat: (Indonesian and Malay: Chord, thread, bundle; Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , adras Adras: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – silk; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. ), is a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions in Southeast Asia, Central Asia, the Indian subcontinent and Central America it probably originated independently around the world. ) silk, Indian sequined velvet, and shocking pink (tussah Tussah: tussar silk (Sanskrit: kosa silk, wild silk, synonyms: tushar, tassar, tussore, tasar, tussur, tusser), produced from larvae of several species of silkworms living naturally in tropical or sub-tropical forests. Often confused with raw silk Raw Silk: (synonym: Sericin) silk fabric with a nubby texture, that hasn’t had sericin (the natural “gum” that protects the fiber) removed. Raw silk is stiff and dull and the sericin tends to attract dirt and odors. but the later hasn’t had sericin removed. Raw silk Raw Silk: (synonym: Sericin) silk fabric with a nubby texture, that hasn’t had sericin (the natural “gum” that protects the fiber) removed. Raw silk is stiff and dull and the sericin tends to attract dirt and odors. is stiff and dull in comparison. ) silk, resemble stylised depictions of gussets (bitan Bīṭān: (Arabic: underarm/armpit, sg. Bāt/ ibt, synonym: ibt, bāt, tkhrāṣah, tnfāyah, bnqīyah), gusset, a triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric inserted into the seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Used for underarms on tunic dresses, side sleeve panels on overgarments (thāwb), and undergarments (ṣarāwl). ) found on more traditional thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.   versions, forming the décorative focus of the article. Main tailoring lines are trimmed with scarlet silk cord and burgundy velvet ribbon bands both at the front and back end. While sleeve openings are edged with matching red silk braid (gitan Gītān: (Arabic: qītān: cord or shoe-lace), comes in woven/braided colored silk or metallic thread, used in hemming or embroidery. The letter (qāf) is colloquially pronounced (ga).) and two tassels (‘amayil) on each side, resembling those found on men’s outer cloaks (‘ibi ‘Ibī: (Arabic: pl. for ‘Abā: outer cloak, synonyms: ‘Abā, ‘abāyah, ‘abāh, ‘abāt, daffah, bisht or mishlaḥ), public outer cloak worn by both sexes. In time this article of dress evolved and changed in shape, style, and function.).

The Book

Title: Thea Porter - Bohemian Chic
Authors: Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter
Publisher: V&A Publishing
ISBN: 978-1-85177-826-3
Hardcover
160 pages
Text and images on a white or black background
English