Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery, an iconic art form in Moroccan textile culture, stands as one of the finest examples of intricate craftsmanship passed down through generations. Renowned for its meticulous techniques, precise designs, and use of luxurious materials, Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery has played a significant role in the cultural and social fabric of Morocco. This article explores the historical origins of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery, its different styles, the use of gold thread, and the influence of the Jewish community in preserving and enriching this art form.

Historical Origins and Significance

The origins of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery are deeply rooted in Morocco's rich history, emerging from the city of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

. Situated along the banks of the Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

River in northern Morocco, the city of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

is one of the country’s largest urban centres and holds the distinction of being one of its four historical imperial cities – mekhzen – alongside Rabat, Marrakesh, and Meknes. Founded in the late 8th century (c. 789 CE) by Idris I Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

has served as a cultural and spiritual nucleus since its inception. The city experienced significant expansion across the river under the reign of Idris II around 808 CE establishing its prominence on both sides of the river as a vital centre of Islamic scholarship, commerce, and governance.

By the 15th century, Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

had become a thriving centre of arts and crafts, renowned for its scholars, artisans, and textile traditions. The development of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery was influenced by various cultures that shaped Morocco, including Andalusian, Arab, Berber, and Jewish communities. The craft has since maintained its unique identity and prestige, with embroidery being passed down primarily through women in domestic settings, contributing to the preservation of local traditions and the transmission of skills across generations.

Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery was traditionally associated with high social status, as it adorned bridal trousseaux, ceremonial garments, and household textiles for the upper classes. The finest works of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery were often commissioned for special occasions such as weddings and religious festivities, serving as both decorative and symbolic pieces. The geometric patterns, floral motifs, and symmetrical designs not only reflected the artisan’s skill but also carried cultural and spiritual meanings, often representing protection, fertility, or prosperity.

Different Styles of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

Embroidery

Embroidery styles from the city of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

can be broadly categorized into three types: aleuj style embroidery, terz_del_ghorza style, and satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape. style. Given its long and varied history, it is unsurprising that these styles are closely associated with the city of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

. Each of these styles offers a unique approach to technique and aesthetic expression, contributing to the diversity and richness of Moroccan textile art.

 

Aleuj Style

Embellished Coarse Cotton Panel, Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

 c. 20^th century; The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative Collections; Link

 

The term aleuj means "one who has converted to Islam" or simply "alien." A popular theory suggests that this embroidery was brought over by Christian slaves from Spain or other parts of Europe who later converted to Islam, or by Jews of the region who also converted.

However, another perspective notes that the stitches used in aleuj embroidery were unknown in Spain until the early 20th century. These stitches actually belong to the Persian and Central Asian tradition. It is likely that Levantine women introduced this style to Morocco, particularly to Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

, which explains the distinctly Levantine, especially Palestinian, motifs often seen in aleuj embroidery.

Today, aleuj embroidery is characterized by its intricate design patterns and non-reversible stitches, combining small tent_stitch with stem_stitch and/or back_stitch, with herringbone_stitch

Herringbone_stitch: a decorative stitch that creates a V-shaped pattern, resembling fish bones. It's commonly used in embroidery, sewing, and quilting to join fabrics or for decorative detailing. The stitch is worked diagonally and often gives a clean, attractive finish.

 used to separate design layers. Given its monochromatic colour palette, often white on white, creating a subtle yet refined visual effect it is also often referred to as “whitework.”

As a non-reversible form of embroidery, it is typically used on fine fabrics such as cotton or silk, where the intricacy of the embroidery lies in the texture and the play of light on the stitched surface. The designs in aleuj style are geometric in nature, with patterns that include stars, flowers, and latticework, meticulously crafted to create a harmonious balance between positive and negative space.

The aleuj style is noted for its precision and symmetry. The geometric patterns in aleuj embroidery are often imbued with symbolic meanings, invoking themes of protection and good fortune.

Terz Del Ghorza

The terz_del_ghorza is perhaps the most famous and intricate style of Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

embroidery. This style is defined by the use of a specific stitch, primarily Holbein_stitch or double_running stitch, where the artisan counts the threads of the fabric to create symmetrical and geometric patterns. The motifs are typically composed of repetitive geometric shapes such as diamonds and stars all executed with mathematical precision.

The style of work appears to date back to c. 18^th century and had spread all across Morocco by the 20^thcentury. Besides the Holbein_stitch, the art employs a combination of other stitch techniques such as flat_stitch and stem_stitch especially for outlining the edges of the shapes. Like the aleuj the terz_del_ghorza also comes in monochromatic colour pallets however, it is a reversible from of embroidery unlike the former.

Largely geometric in nature, the patterns depicted with terz_del_ghorza can occasionally be stylized foliage that is easily depicted in geometric shapes. The Khamsa / Hamsa also famously known as the Hand_of_Fatima pattern is one of the most widely used non geometric pattern depicted in terz_del_ghorza.

https://youtu.be/-dyUSGRu8Ss

A technically challenging and time-consuming craft, the terz_del_ghorza is a hallmark of luxury and craftsmanship. It is often found on household linens, such as tablecloths, pillowcases, and curtains, as well as traditional garments like qaftan Qafṭān: (Persian: khaftān, Pl. qafāṭin, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , drā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, kandurah Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. )  loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., mqta’, thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ) loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis

Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

) tunic with frontal neckline opening. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. .

Following is a brief comparative study of the differences in features of the two embroidery styles in tabular form:

Conclusion

Although the aleuj and terz_del_ghorza embroidery styles may appear similar at first glance, they are distinct in their techniques and can be easily differentiated by experts. Both are renowned for their intricate designs, yet key differences in execution and style clearly set them apart. This distinction highlights the diversity within the rich tradition of Moroccan embroidery.

In the next instalment, we will delve into the satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape. technique typical to Fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

, exploring its use of metal threads and examining the significant contributions of the Jewish community to this art form.