Traditional cloak (Miniature) – Afghanistan

Object Note
Part of a set constituting six more items – two pieces of (ZI2023.501012.1 TUNISIA, ZI2023.501012.2 ASIA, ZI2023.501012.3 ASIA, ZI2023.501012.4 ASIA, and ZI2023.501012.5 OMAN).
 
Object History
This white linen Afghan women’s cloak was purchased along with six more items by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 2023, from Augusta Auction Company, based out of Vermont, USA, to enhance The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection.
 
Object Features 
This is an ivory linen miniature-size Afghan women’s (chadari Chadari: (Persian: Čādor – Tent; from Sanskrit: Chhatra – Ceremonial parasol), a loose-fitting, head, face and body covering worn by some women in Afghanistan and neighbouring regions. It typically consists of a head cover stitched to a veil like cloak with only a mesh screen or small opening for the eyes. ) also famously called the (burqa).
It has a skull cap embellished with floral motifs executed in a quilting style running stitches with ivory cotton threads. It has a finely pleated back and eye openings embellished with (buttonhole_stitch)es in ivory cotton threads and a triangular gusset to cover the torso also embellished with floral motifs executed with running stitches in grey and ivory cotton threads.
Although described as a ‘[…] woman’s regional headdress w/ neck drape, Northern Afghan […]’ the miniature size of the piece suggests that either it was a seamster’s sample or a chadari Chadari: (Persian: Čādor – Tent; from Sanskrit: Chhatra – Ceremonial parasol), a loose-fitting, head, face and body covering worn by some women in Afghanistan and neighbouring regions. It typically consists of a head cover stitched to a veil like cloak with only a mesh screen or small opening for the eyes.  for a doll.
The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative has another similar but full-size chadari Chadari: (Persian: Čādor – Tent; from Sanskrit: Chhatra – Ceremonial parasol), a loose-fitting, head, face and body covering worn by some women in Afghanistan and neighbouring regions. It typically consists of a head cover stitched to a veil like cloak with only a mesh screen or small opening for the eyes.  – ZI2021.500885 ASIA – in blue meant for an adult woman.
 
Links

• Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001. 


• Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017. 


• Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006. 


• Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. : Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013. 


• Click here to know more about the (burqa) and a chadari Chadari: (Persian: Čādor – Tent; from Sanskrit: Chhatra – Ceremonial parasol), a loose-fitting, head, face and body covering worn by some women in Afghanistan and neighbouring regions. It typically consists of a head cover stitched to a veil like cloak with only a mesh screen or small opening for the eyes. 


• https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186 


• https://www.theatlantic.com/photo/2013/07/afghanistan-in-the-1950s-and-60s/100544/ 


• https://trc-leiden.nl/collection/?trc=&zoek=afghan&cat=&subcat=&g=&s=100&f=0&id=2471