Object History
This metal woven traditional style detachable golden collar (peshkurta) was gifted by Ms. Emma Farmer – COO of The Zay Initiative – to The Zay Initiative to enhance its collection. Ms. Farmer acquired this piece from a local market in Bukhara during her visit in 2021
Raised in the Middle East and educated in the UK, Ms Farmer has a profound understanding and passion for bridging gaps regarding culture and business, whilst navigating geo-political environments.
A highly motivated, award-winning, and experienced project leader in communications and business development Ms. Farmer has over 15 years of experience in the field.
She strategically grew Dubai Lynx from 2011 to 2016 as a festival Director and left a legacy, building the foundations that see the festival thrive across multiple markets today. Now an entrepreneur and mother, Ms Farmer has set up ‘Chameleon’, helping businesses reach their potential whilst ensuring they do better for good.
Through her role as COO (2019-2022), she has helped The Zay Initiative establish and strengthen its roots.
Object Features
This is a heavily embellished detachable collar or peshkurta traditionally worn by women across Central Asia but typically famous amongst the women of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Sahri Sabz. Constructed of metallic and silk floss thread embellished over a simple silk fabric strip using primarily (couching) and (satin_stitch) style it also has touches of green and pink plastic or metal chips that were cut in floral shapes and (appliqued) over the base fabric. There are also green and pink sequins stitched to the piece as further embellishment. The base of this peshkurta is made of a stiff fibre with the underside completely unlined.
Links
- Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001.
- Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017.
- Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006.
- Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani: Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013.
- Pennell, Suzanne. The Art of Gold Embroidery from Uzbekistan. Brisbane: Story Bridge Press, 2015.
- https://rjohnhowe.wordpress.com/2009/03/25/christine-brown-on-uzbek-clothing-part-1-the-lecture/
- https://rjohnhowe.wordpress.com/2009/03/25/christine-brown-on-uzbek-clothing-part-2-material-in-the-room/
- https://unesdoc.unesco.org/ark:/48223/pf0000130205
- https://asiasociety.org/central-asia-political-history-19th-century-present
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186
- https://www.internationalwardrobe.com/lexicon-2/der-mantelchapan-in-usbekistan-2/
- https://www.internationalwardrobe.com/lexicon-2/der-mantelchapan-in-usbekistan-2/
- https://www.textile-forum-blog.org/2023/01/on-the-roads-of-samarkand-wonders-of-silk-and-gold/
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