Dupioni silk and wool embellished tunic – Asia

Object History
This beautiful Kochi tribal-style dress native to Afghanistan and Balochistan province in Pakistan was purchased from Show Place Auctions, in New York by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 2021.
This dress was part of Late. Ms Nina Griscom’s wardrobe until her death in 2020. A famous American designer, model, television host, businesswoman and socialite who rose to fame in the 1980s, Ms Griscom (nee Renshaw) passed away in January 2020 at her home in Manhattan.
 
Object Features 
A purple and pink dupioni silk women’s tunic dress in Kochi tribal style. The front of the yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  is embellished with a woven silk and woollen patch from the neck to the waist. The patch has thin parallel lines in yellow and purple alternately running parallel to one another with three rows woven in different shades of silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads. The entire patch is separately woven and had been hand stitched to the dress.
The front yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  has talismanic style metal – possibly silver – appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. border of small diamond-shaped and round discs with embossed floral motifs. It also runs down the placket slit with a large metal disc adorning the placket imitating a necklace. Four more large round discs accompanied with oval, and diamond-shaped pallets are appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. over the woven yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  patch in the form of four flowers.
Usually, Kochi dresses have an oval heavily embroidered waistband attached to the back waistline, however, in this case, the patch is made of thin purple and yellow silk ikat Ikat: (Indonesian and Malay: Chord, thread, bundle; Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , adras Adras: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – silk; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. ), is a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions in Southeast Asia, Central Asia, the Indian subcontinent and Central America it probably originated independently around the world.  fabric and is attached to the front of the dress. Instead of heavy bead work embroidery famously known as the (gul_i_peron Gul_i_peron: (Farsi and Urdu: Gul – Flower; or Turkish: Rose; Farsi and Urdu: Pairahan – Garment or Shirt), a fabric embellishment craft of ancient Persian origin involving heavy beadwork often featuring floral motifs and a mirror centrepiece to deflect evil eye from the wearer. It is still famous in South and Central Asia. ) this waistband is embellished with a metal – possibly silver–corded ribbon trimming with a series of metal–silver–corded threads hanging in fringes with tiny blue plastic beads at their ends.
The side of the waist has different patches of fabric including a burgundy taffeta

Taffeta: (Persian: tāftan – to shine), a plain woven fabric with a crisp and smooth finish and feel on both sides traditionally woven with silk yarns. Traditionally, taffeta fabric has been known for making European women’s court dress especially and became particularly famous under the patronage of Madame de Pompadour.

and a purple and yellow ikat Ikat: (Indonesian and Malay: Chord, thread, bundle; Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , adras Adras: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – silk; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. ), is a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions in Southeast Asia, Central Asia, the Indian subcontinent and Central America it probably originated independently around the world.  similar to the waistband mixed with the plain dupioni used for the dress. These patches have been secured and embellished with rows of quilting style running stitch running parallel to one another.
The skirt of the dress has thick vertical pleats and is stitched along the centre with a thin pink strip of fabric, possibly a satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. ribbon. The hemline has a broad border embellished with quilting style running stitch with orange cotton thread and floral and geometric motifs embroidered with shiny threads, possibly plastic, in an array of colours – blue, green, silver, gold, coral Coral: (Greek: korallion, probably from Hebrew: goral – small pebbles), is a pale to medium shade of pink with orange or peach undertones, resembling the colour of certain species of coral. and purple. Accents of metal discs are appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. at regular intervals adding another layer to its design. A similar design is also replicated on the cuffs of the dress, however without the metal discs.
It is important to point out that this example is very similar in fabric, style and embroidery to dresses worn under overgarments (athwab Athwāb: (Arabic, sing. thawb), the standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. It is sometimes spelled (thobe), (thaub), or (tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ).) throughout the Arab Gulf region attesting to the deep economic and cultural ties between these cultures.
 
Links

• Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001. 


• Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017. 


• Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006. 


• Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. : Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013. 


• https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186 


• https://trcleiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/dressing-the-stans/item/109-decorative-needlework 


• https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/afghan-dress/item/72-hamid-karzai-and-afghan-unification 


• https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/afghan-dress/item/74-baluchi-dress 


• https://www.wearableheritage.com/gul-i-peron 


• https://www.ancientbeadwork.com/gul-i-peron 


• https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/afghan-dress/item/77-pashtun-dress