Velvet and gold skull cap – Gujarat

Object Note
Part of a lot purchased together which includes a woman’s ensemble –blouse, pair of trousers and a jacket (ZI2020.500741 ASIA, ZI2020.500741a ASIA, ZI2020.500741b ASIA) and six other pieces not related to the ensemble (ZI2020.500741c ASIA, ZI2020.500741d ASIA, ZI2020.500741e ASIA, ZI2020.500741g ASIA, ZI2020.500741h ASIA, ZI2020.500741i ASIA).
 
Object History
This green velvet and metal thread embroidered men’s skull cap was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from Kerry Taylor Auctions, London in 2020 to be added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative Collection.
 
Object Features 
This is a men’s skull cap (topi Topi: (Turkic: Tubeteika– traditional caps of Central Asia), a hat or cap of any kind in the Indian subcontinent.) – possibly stiff calf skin – with plain green silk velvet and gold and silver metal thread embroidery in (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) style embroidery featuring dense and intricate floral (jaal

Jaal: (Sanskrit: jaal – A net, web, or a mesh), the decoration which fills the ground between the paisley cones at the heads of a shawl.

) with (paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature./buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif.) and other floral motifs and four peach coloured plastic rivets embellishing the crown.
It has a pointed top; it is lined with a rich orange satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. lining with a golden and pink coloured silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. crocheted lace trimming and a black synthetic – possibly plastic – lining around the hem.
This piece is possibly from the Sindh region of the subcontinent and judging from its colour and other accompanying articles it could have been part of a fairly affluent Muslim groom and his men’s wedding attire.
 
Links

• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453546/cap/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453540/skull-cap/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453537/skull-cap/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453560/cap/ 


• https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453861/cap/