Object Note
Part of an ensemble consisting of three more items in the collection (ZI2020.500734 ASIA, ZI2020.500734b ASIA, and ZI2020.500734c ASIA).
Object History
This black pair of embroidered woman’s calf-length trousers native to the Balochi/Baluchi tribes native to Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli from a dealer based in southern Iran, in 2020 to be added to The Zay Initiative collection. It was part of an ensemble along with a (pashk), accompanied by a necklace and a pair of earrings all of which are also part of the collection.
Object Features
This is a pair of traditional Balochi women’s calf-length trousers or (shalvar)/(salwar) in black silk (georgette) with (quadrille) style weave. It is embellished with typical Balochi style embroidery depicting geometric shapes and floral motifs and is typically worn with a tunic dress called (kamiz)/(paskh)/(pashk).
The field of the trousers is embellished with sporadic repeats of interlaced geometric motifs – circles, and squares – executed in (satin_stitch) style embroidery with silk floss thread in mustard yellow reflecting the design of its accompanied pashk. The borders of the trousers are also embellished with butterfly and floral motifs like the pashk with outlines and highlights of silver metallic threads. It has a very wide waistband constructed of a georgette (damask) fabric with repeats of heart-shaped motifs.
This piece possibly originated in the Sistan and Baluchestan province of Iran as it was accompanied by a necklace (ZI2020.500734b ASIA) and a pair of earrings (ZI2020.500734c ASIA) both of which are embellished with old nickel coins of Qajar Persian origin c. early 19th century.
Links
- Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001.
- Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017.
- Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006.
- Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani: Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013.
- https://balochistanlovers.wordpress.com/2016/02/07/balochi-culture/
- https://www.pakpedia.pk/balochi-culture/
- https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/asia-central-history-dress
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186
Donate