Embroidered tunic dress – Sistan and Baluchestan

Object Note
Part of an ensemble consisting of three more items in the collection (ZI2020.500734a ASIA, ZI2020.500734b ASIA, and ZI2020.500734c ASIA).
 
Object History
This black embroidered woman’s tunic native to the Balochi/Baluchi tribes native to Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from a dealer based in southern Iran, in 2020 to be added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. It was part of an ensemble along with a pair of (shalvar shalvār: in Farsi, in the Emirati colloquial: ṣarwāl. In the Levantine colloquial: Shirwāl. Plural: sarāwīl, ṣarāwīl, sharāwīl, ṣarwīlāt). It is loose pants at the waist with folds, and narrow at the ankles. It is tied with a rope at the waist.), accompanied by a necklace and a pair of earrings all of which are also part of the collection.
 
Object Features 
This is a traditional Balochi women’s tunic dress or (kamiz Kamiz: (Arabic: Qamīs: tunic; from Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Qamīs), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers. )/(paskh Paskh: (Persian: Posāk or Sanskrit Poshaka – Garment; from Sanskrit: Poshanam – To nurture), loose fitting calf length dress often worn over a pair of trousers similar to a South Asian kameez

Kameez: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Arabic: Qamīs; Synonym: qamīs, qmijah, gmijah), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in the Near and Middle East, South and Central Asia. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

. )/(pashk Pashk: (Persian: Posāk or Sanskrit Poshaka – Garment; from Sanskrit: Poshanam – To nurture), loose fitting calf length dress often worn over a pair of trousers similar to a South Asian kameez

Kameez: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Arabic: Qamīs; Synonym: qamīs, qmijah, gmijah), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in the Near and Middle East, South and Central Asia. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.

. )in black silk (georgette Georgette: (French: Georgette de la Plante – a famous dressmaker), a lightweight, sheer fabric with a dull crimpled surface. It is usually made of silk but can also be made of synthetic fibers. Georgette was first introduced in the early 20th century and was named after the French dressmaker. ) with (quadrille) style weave. It is embellished in typical Balochi style embroidery depicting geometric shapes and floral motifs and is typically worn with a pair of trousers called (shalvar shalvār: in Farsi, in the Emirati colloquial: ṣarwāl. In the Levantine colloquial: Shirwāl. Plural: sarāwīl, ṣarāwīl, sharāwīl, ṣarwīlāt). It is loose pants at the waist with folds, and narrow at the ankles. It is tied with a rope at the waist.).
The tunic consists of an embellished (bodice_yoke Bodice_Yoke: (Synonym: Yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam. ), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  )/(yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam. ) and a skirt with (godets) on either side of the waist. The front of the yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  is embellished with repeats of floral and butterfly motifs in (satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) style embroidery with mustard yellow silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. thread accompanied by a thin outline in (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) style embroidery with silver coloured metallic thread. These patterns of motifs are reflected on the cuffs too in a thick banner.
The front of the skirt has a similar embroidered long narrow rectangular patch topped with a triangle. This patch is a utilitarian attachment known as a ‘pudo’ and it usually serves as a large pocket. The panel is separately embroidered and sewn into the dress and although it ends a few inches above the hemline of the dress traditionally it extends and merges with the hemline.
The entire skirt, the back of the yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam. , and the sleeves are splattered with talismanic designs of geometric motifs embellished using a variety of stitch styles such as (chain_stitch Chain_stitch: An embroidery technique where a looped stitch is made in a continuous chain-like pattern. Each stitch is formed by looping the thread through the previous stitch, creating a linked chain.  ) style, (buttonhole_stitch) style, and (blanket_stitch Blanket_stitch: A basic sewing stitch used to secure the edges of fabric or create decorative borders by looping the thread over the edges of blankets, quilts, and other fabrics and pulling it through, forming a series of evenly spaced stitches that resemble a chain. ) style embroidery.
This piece possibly originated in the Sistan and Baluchestan province of Iran as it was accompanied by a necklace (ZI2020.500734b ASIA) and a pair of earrings (ZI2020.500734c ASIA) both of which are embellished with old nickel coins of Qajar Persian origin c. early 19th century.
 
Links

• Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001. 


• Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017. 


• Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006. 


• Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. : Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013. 


• https://balochistanlovers.wordpress.com/2016/02/07/balochi-culture/ 


• https://www.pakpedia.pk/balochi-culture/ 


• https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/asia-central-history-dress 


• https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186