Object History
This ivory cotton jacket was purchased from an independent dealer in London, by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli in 2018 to be added to The Zay Initiative collection.
The previous collector purchased a collection from a lady whose mother was a private secretary to two of Hollywood’s most famous celebrities – Laurence Olivier and Vivienne Leigh. She acquired her collection from both Olivier and Leigh through purchases as well as donations/gifts. This piece is claimed to have been made – tailored – by the once famous London costumier L&H Nathan for Leigh.
Object Features
This is an ivory jacket possibly belonging to Vivienne Leigh according to the previous collector designed and tailored by famous London costumier L&H Nathan.
It is a women’s jacket with a front opening possibly repurposed from an old cotton (shawl) or simple broad cloth of possibly Iranian or South Asian – Kashmiri – origin. Although attributed to Iran by the previous owner, the possibility of its South Asian origin is also very high.
It is densely embroidered with cotton and silk floss threads depicting a dense (jaal) of intricate floral and (paisley) / (buta) motifs primarily in black, pink, orange, and coral colours with grey, brown and yellow highlights. It has metal filigree buttons possibly made of aluminium and has thick corded fasteners. The jacket is lined with an ivory thick cotton canvas fabric.
Links
- https://www.rct.uk/collection/themes/exhibitions/the-princesses-pantomimes/windsor-castle-state-apartments/costumes
- http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/n/nathans-costume-house/
- https://theatricalia.com/person/1xjc/l-h-nathan-ltd
- https://www.prints-online.com/new-images-august-2021/
- https://www.butterworthsvintage.com/
- https://www.antiques-atlas.com/antique/19thc_french_silk_brocade_theatrical_costume_coat
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