Embroidered cotton jacket – London

Object History
This ivory cotton jacket was purchased from an independent dealer in London, by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 2018 to be added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection.
The previous collector purchased a collection from a lady whose mother was a private secretary to two of Hollywood’s most famous celebrities – Laurence Olivier and Vivienne Leigh. She acquired her collection from both Olivier and Leigh through purchases as well as donations/gifts. This piece is claimed to have been made – tailored – by the once famous London costumier L&H Nathan for Leigh.
 
Object Features 
This is an ivory jacket possibly belonging to Vivienne Leigh according to the previous collector designed and tailored by famous London costumier L&H Nathan.
It is a women’s jacket with a front opening possibly repurposed from an old cotton (shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. ) or simple broad cloth of possibly Iranian or South Asian – Kashmiri Kashmiri: (Hindustani: Kashmir – a region in South Asia), a term used to denote or identify anything related to the region – its people, their language, culture, art and craft, society etc.  – origin. Although attributed to Iran by the previous owner, the possibility of its South Asian origin is also very high.
It is densely embroidered with cotton and silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads depicting a dense (jaal

Jaal: (Sanskrit: jaal – A net, web, or a mesh), the decoration which fills the ground between the paisley cones at the heads of a shawl.

) of intricate floral and (paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature.) / (buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif.) motifs primarily in black, pink, orange, and coral Coral: (Greek: korallion, probably from Hebrew: goral – small pebbles), is a pale to medium shade of pink with orange or peach undertones, resembling the colour of certain species of coral. colours with grey, brown and yellow highlights. It has metal filigree buttons possibly made of aluminium and has thick corded fasteners. The jacket is lined with an ivory thick cotton canvas fabric.
 
Links

• https://www.rct.uk/collection/themes/exhibitions/the-princesses-pantomimes/windsor-castle-state-apartments/costumes 


• http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/n/nathans-costume-house/ 


• https://theatricalia.com/person/1xjc/l-h-nathan-ltd 


• https://www.prints-online.com/new-images-august-2021/


• https://www.butterworthsvintage.com/


• https://www.antiques-atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. Aṭlas: (Aramaic: anything dusty or black; or Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – Character from Greek mythology; Synonym: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  Zaytoun), a glossy fabric acquired from Zayton, China produced by one of three fundamental types of textile weaves where the warp threads are caught and looped by the weft Weft: one of the two basic components used in weaving that transforms thread or yarns into a piece of fabric. It is the crosswise thread on a loom that is passed over and under the warp threads. at certain intervals commonly known as satin. .com/antique/19thc_french_silk_brocade_theatrical_costume_coat