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Metal embellished trousers – Iran

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Local Name	Shalvar, Sirwal, Sarwal
Object Category	Pants
Gender	Female
Place Of orgin	Asia
Region	Southern Iran
Object Range	Iran, Pakistan, India, UAE, Kuwait, Yemen, Bahrain, Qatar, Oman
Dimensions	Length: 94 cm Width: 32 cm
Materials	Silk Metal
Technique	Hand Stitched Machine Embroidered
Color
Motif	Floral Geometric
Provenance	Purchased, Anonymous dealer, Iran 2018
Location	The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
Status	In Storage
ZI number	ZI2018.500796 ASIA

Object Note
Purchased along with another five similar pieces in the collection (ZI2018.500133 ASIA, ZI2018.500134 ASIA, ZI2018.500797ASIA, ZI2018.500798 ASIA, ZI2018.500799 ASIA).

Object History
This garment was acquired through an anonymous contact on El Mutwalli el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage.’s social media – Instagram – platform. He was interested in Dr. Reem’s and The Initiative’s endeavour in the field and offered to help. Not much is known about the person as he never revealed his name or met with Dr. Reem except he often travels between Dubai, UAE, and the south of Iran. He purchased six samples of these trousers and had them delivered to Dr. Reem via her driver.
Dr. Reem and The Initiative would like to extend their heartfelt gratitude to the said stranger for his kind and charitable gesture.

Object Features 
This is an ankle-length, tapered pair of black silk trousers () of thick () weave, loose with a gathered waistline that has an elastic fastening.
Traditionally worn by women of Bandar Abbas and Hormozgan areas in south Iran. These are usually worn with a loose shift () of coloured cotton with a collar () and a rectangular black () made of thin silk or other sheer material by older women of the region.
The cuffs are embellished with thick metal foil (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

), metal thread () and silk thread embroidered borders and strips of woven woollen ribbons. The outermost edging is embellished with golden alternately embroidered with black cotton thread forming diagonal panels, followed by a plain green woollen strip, a ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

strip in silver over an orange base and finally a thick black woollen woven strip.
The innermost strip is the widest with golden and silver metal foil ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

work in geometric design over a red and green base. The cuff ends with a wide patch of floral design in three tiers.
The outermost tier is a thick patch of golden embroidered in () style highlighted with a spiral design created by () style embroidery with orange and green silk thread.
The next tier is a broad band of floral and geometric design executed in a variety of styles – (), () and – with and golden sequins and finally sporadic repeats of floral bouquet embroidered with silver and golden and sequins and a variety of colourful – , pink, jade, burgundy, yellow blue and green – silk threads executed in and .
The cuffs have zip fastenings to loosen or tighten the trousers at the ankles according to the wearer’s convenience. The is otherwise unlined except for the cuffs which are lined with plain white cotton fabric.
It is worth noting that the name ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

for this type of embroidery is although same across Iran and South Asia it is also sometimes commonly referred to as (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

) in south Iran.
It is believed that the term ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

is derived from the phrase ‘badal kinari’ – cloud lining – popular during the Mughal period in India as net or fine silk were often embroidered with metal pieces giving them the look of clouds with bright lines around them.
However, upon crossing the Gulf and reaching the Arabian Peninsula the nomenclature of the embroidery changes to (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

/ ), while the cuffs of women’s trousers and shirts which are detachable and could be changed are called ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

.
These embellished broad-cuffed are not just unique to south Iran but are equally famous across the Gulf in the countries across the Arabian Peninsula such as Bahrain, Qatar, UAE, and Oman. The quality of craftsmanship on this is so refined that it looks almost commercially produced in a factory, while in reality they are made at home by women of the region.
With cross-cultural lineages running deep between the communities living on either side of the Gulf, it is thus no wonder, that material culture such as this has found firm grounds on both sides.

Links

https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/knotting-and-netting/badla

https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxiii

https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing

https://iranparadise.com/irans-traditional-dress

https://www.fantasticirantravel.com/iranian-ethnic-costumes/

https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxvii

https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing

https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxviii

https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/knotting-and-netting/badla

https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles

https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles

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