Object Note
Part of a lot consisting of a three parts full ensemble (ZI2018.500737 ASIA and ZI2018.500737a ASIA, and ZI2018.500737b ASIA).
Object History
This object was sourced with the help of fashion designer Homeira Ebadi from the Fishvar city of Larestan county of Fars Province in southwest Iran. It was purchased by her on behalf of Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli in 2018 to be added to The Zay initiative collection.
Apart from being a fashion designer Ms. Ebadi is a dedicated volunteer associated with The Zay Initiative and its cause, often lending a hand in sourcing unique pieces like this.
Our heartfelt gratitude to Ms. Ebadi for her efforts for her contribution.
Object Features
This is an ivory cotton muslin cloak or Iranian (chador) with repeats of floral motifs executed in (satin _stich) style embroidery in a variety of coloured silk floss threads – green, blue, yellow, and fuchsia pink. It is constructed of four pieces of fabric sewn together.
It has a straight and curved side. The straight part is constructed of a rectangular piece and has a thin crocheted ribbon trimming in gold and silver metallic threads or zari and plastic tinsel around its edge. The curved end is constructed by cutting a similar rectangular fabric into three panels and attaching it to the top straight panel.
Although from the Evaz county of the Fars province, one could not be absolutely certain whether this chador belonged to a Lori ethnic woman or a Qashqai. While the Loris are known for not wearing chador more often than none even today, except in recent years that too while visiting more urban areas, the Qashqai women did practice wearing chador but very casually until the revolution. Although they did relent to a degree to the new dress code after the formation of the Islamic Republic of Iran and have adopted the dark-coloured chador as part of their costume in the urban areas, nomadic Qashqai tribes are sometimes known for defying the revolutionary guards and their enforced changes.
Links
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxiii
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing
- https://iranparadise.com/irans-traditional-dress/
- https://www.fantasticirantravel.com/iranian-ethnic-costumes/
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxvii
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxviii
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/knotting-and-netting/badla
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxiv
- https://www.fantasticirantravel.com/iranian-ethnic-costumes/
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