Object Note
Part of a lot with an ensemble consisting of two more parts (ZI2018.500737 ASIA and ZI2018.500737b ASIA) and a cloak (ZI2018.500738 ASIA).
Object History
This object was sourced with the help of fashion designer Homeira Ebadi from the Fishvar city of Larestan county of Fars Province in southwest Iran. It was purchased by her on behalf of Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli in 2018 to be added to The Zay initiative collection.
Apart from being a fashion designer Ms. Ebadi is a dedicated volunteer associated with The Zay Initiative and its cause, often lending a hand in sourcing unique pieces like this.
Our heartfelt gratitude to Ms. Ebadi for her efforts for her contribution.
Object Features
This is a green silk full skirt possibly known as (tombun_zanuna) of (satin) weave with sporadic repeats of floral motifs. Usually worn with a fairly straight-fitted full tunic dress (pirhan) with long slits on the sides or a shorter collarless shirt of satin brocade (jama_atlas / juma_atlas) for ceremonial purposes and a pair of underdrawers (zirsawlar) by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran including the women of the Lor, Bakhtiari, and Boir-Ahmadi tribes.
Although this ensemble has a very close resemblance to the wedding ensemble (ZI2018.500121 ASIA; ZI2018.500121a ASIA and ZI2018.500121b ASIA) from Evaz – also in Fars province, Iran rife with Lori-speaking tribes –it is worth noting that this ensemble is a traditional garment for regular wear. While the northern Lori women would be seen wearing a scarf (tara_awwal) and a turban (tara) over their heads, the Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the south often drape their heads with a hood (lačak) and fine veil (meyna) over it.
The field of the skirt is embellished with sporadic repeats of a floral arrangement that looks like a bird in flight and is a popular motif on garments across the Gulf on the Arabian Peninsula, where the motif is called (bu_tayrah) in colloquial UAE dialect. This arrangement is embroidered using (satin_stitch) style in ivory, fuchsia, and pale pink, brown, and yellow silk floss threads. The waistline is gathered and fastened with a drawstring.
The hemline has woven cotton edging with a wave pattern in white, orange, and yellow on a black background. This is followed by two strips of metal foil embroidery (badlah) on a black and red background which is further followed by a broad crocheted ribbon made of metallic golden thread (zari). Only the hemline of the piece is lined with a thin gauze fabric printed with floral motifs in black and white on a green base.
Qashqai women from the Zagros mountainous regions of Iran are also often seen wearing similar traditional dresses with a few variations in their style as well as names. This is because until c. 1920s the Qashqai traditional wears were heavily influenced and were almost similar to the population of southwest Iran – Fars, Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad, west Hormozgan, etc. However, they call such skirts (tonban) or (salita).
Links
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxiii
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing
- https://iranparadise.com/irans-traditional-dress/
- https://www.fantasticirantravel.com/iranian-ethnic-costumes/
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxvii
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxviii
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/knotting-and-netting/badla
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxiv
- https://www.fantasticirantravel.com/iranian-ethnic-costumes/
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