Object Features
This waistcoat (farmala) is made of soft green silk velvet, heavily embroidered around the collar and the chest. Gold thread forms floral patterns decorated with sequins and burgundy embroidery, three fish are embroidered with dark metallic thread on each side of the neckline. The neckline resembles a horseshoe shape, as the collar drips to just before the waist where two gold-coloured ties secure the garment closed. The entire hem of the waistcoat is completed in metallic gold thread. At the top of each shoulder, small cap-sleeves of green silk were added. The back and inside of the vest are covered with a cream-colored silk lining.
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The farmala is a traditional waistcoat worn by both men and women, in the Ottoman Empire, as well as the Arab countries. One form is short and reaches the length of the hips (yelek), and another longer form, called (antari), reaches the knees. The longest type of farmala waistcoat extends to the ankles and is called a coat or (qaftan). Some of the varieties of waistcoats are sleeveless, while some have sleeves that reach the elbows or the wrists.
The collar of the waistcoat comes in many shapes: rounded, with a slightly high collar, in a V-shape, cut in the form of semi-circles, or in decorative floral shapes. This piece of clothing is usually sewn from velvet, silk, broadcloth, or brocade, and sometimes leather. They were embellished with embroidery in gold (zari), silver tulle, or silk threads (brisam), and sometimes pieces of different coloured cloth were added for decoration. Some varieties of waistcoasts, especially the shorter versions, often have two small pockets near the bottom of the garment.
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