Object Note
Part of an ensemble containing two more items also in the collection (ZI2018.500127a ASIA, ZI2018.500127b ASIA).
Object History
This ensemble was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli from an independent dealer from Bandar Abbas area in the south of Iran in 2018.
Object Features
This is a blue women’s shift tunic dress common to the Bandar Abbas and Hormozgan areas in the south of Iran. Constructed of fine cotton this piece is possibly called a (jama/juma) with collar (gariban), this kind of loose shift tunic is often worn by older women of the region over a pair of trousers (shalvar) with tapering ankles.
The tunic is heavily embellished with metallic corded threads and trimmings, lace, rhinestones, silk floss threads and coloured cylindrical sequins possibly made of glass or plastic. It is completely hand-stitched and hand-embroidered.
The front of the yoke is heavily embellished with silver and golden corded threads (zari) (crocheted) into a lace-like pattern and a scalloped edging which is (appliqued) on the yoke following which a variety of coloured cylindrical beads – lavender, green, white and coral – are arranged in another series of scallops.
This is followed by a thin trimming of zari lace, which is finally topped with five tiers of metal foil embellished (badlah) strips on five different colours – coral, white, green, red and black – featuring different zigzag and other geometric patterns in different scales. These colourful bases are woven with wool.
A similar design with the same materials is reflected around the cuffs of the jama. The entire field of the jama has repeats of a spiral and a floral motif embellished using (blanket_stitch) style embroidery alternately in ivory and multicoloured – yellow, pink and light blue – silk floss threads. With silver tinsel highlights.
The use of the tinsel suggests that the dress was perhaps made sometime in circa mid-20th century. A metallic golden zari crocheted lace ribbon runs along the seams and the hem of the jama. The hem is further embellished with cutwork floral edging ribbon made of golden zari, coral silk floss threads and golden-coloured rhinestones.
The back of the dress reflects the same design as the front field with repeats of spiral and floral motifs.
Although the overall shape of the jama resembles in style the overgarment from the Arabian Peninsula (thawb) however, the neckline and the sleeves are vastly different. While the sleeves of the jama have a small opening with small and embellished cuffs the sleeves of the Gulf thawb are completely open.
With cross-cultural lineages running deep between the communities living on either side of the Gulf, it is thus no wonder, that material culture such as this has found firm grounds on both sides.
Links
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxiii
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing
- https://iranparadise.com/irans-traditional-dress/
- https://www.fantasticirantravel.com/iranian-ethnic-costumes/
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxvii
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing
- https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxviii
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/knotting-and-netting/badla
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/daily-and-general-garments-and-textiles
- https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/knotting-and-netting/badla
Donate