Object NotePart of an ensemble consisting of two more parts (
ZI2018.500.121 ASIA and
ZI2018.500121a ASIA).
Object History This object was sourced with the help of fashion designer Homeira Ebadi from the Evaz county of Fars Province in the south of Iran. It was purchased by her on behalf of
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 2018 to be added to The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. initiative collection.
Apart from being a fashion designer Ms. Ebadi is a dedicated volunteer associated with The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative and its cause, often lending a hand in sourcing unique pieces like this.
Our heartfelt gratitude to Ms. Ebadi for her efforts for her contribution.
Object Features This is a pair of green silk divided skirt possibly known as (
tombun_zanuna
Tombūn-zanūna: (Persian: zanu/zanoo – knee; Synonym: Tonban
Tonbān: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Salita
Salīta: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Tonban), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic-speaking Qashqai women of Iran. ), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic speaking Qashqai women of Iran. , Salita
Salīta: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Tonban), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic-speaking Qashqai women of Iran. ), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran. ) of (
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.) weave with sporadic repeats of floral motifs. Usually worn with a fairly straight-fitted full tunic dress (pirhan) with long slits on the sides or a shorter collarless shirt of
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. brocade
Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts. (
jama_atlas
Jama_atlas: (Hindustani: jama
Jāma: (Persian, Synonym: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north.), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Juma_atlas
Juma_atlas: (Hindustani: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Jama_atlas), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. ), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. /
juma_atlas
Juma_atlas: (Hindustani: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Jama_atlas), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. ) for ceremonial purposes and a pair of underdrawers (
zirsawlar
) by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran including the women of the Lor, Bakhtiari, and Boir-Ahmadi tribes.
This is a pair of divided skirt has full gathers on each side and a very wide waist possibly to fit all sizes. The field of the skirt is embellished with sporadic repeats of a floral arrangement that looks like a bird in flight.
Known as the (
bu_tayrah
Bū_ṭayrah: (Arabic, bū: diminutive of abū: father, ṭayr: bird). The term is used in the UAE to refer to a Chinese silk fabric, embroidered in floral motifs resembling birds in flight. It’s a sheer light format used for overgarments (athwāb), while the opaque satin silk is used for tunics (kanādīr) and the lower more visible parts of underpants (sarāwīl).) in colloquial Gulf Arabic – Khalijee – dialect,
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. fabric embellished with this motif is extremely sought after in the countries of the Arabian Peninsula, especially in the UAE. It is often the choice fabric for (
kandurah
Kandūrah: (Arabic: qandūrah, pl. kanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah
Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis
Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.
) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., qandurah
Qandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: ghandurah
Ghandūrah: (Arabic, pl. qanādīr, synonyms: qandurah, darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis
Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.
) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences., darā’ah, dishdāshah, jalābah, jallābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe
Tobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ), a loose, short or long-sleeved, shirt like (qamis
Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.
) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences. , dra’ah, dishdāshah, jallābīyah, jalābah, jillābīyah, qaftan, mqta’, thawb or tobe
Tobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. ) loose, short or long sleeved, shirt like (qamis
Qamīṣ: (Possibly late Latin: Camisia – Linen Undergarment; Synonym: Kamiz), a traditional loose fitting long tunic or shirt worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia and the Arab world. Typically extending below the waist it is usually paired with a pair of trousers.
) tunic with frontal neckline opening, worn by both sexes. Each Arab region has a different term for what is essentially a similar garment with various small differences.). With cross-cultural lineages running deep between the communities living on either side of the Gulf, it is thus no wonder, that material culture such as this has found firm grounds on both sides.
This arrangement is embroidered using (
satin_stitch
Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) technique in an array of colourful silk
floss
Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads – purple, orange, (
crimson
Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles.) red, pink, and ivory. this piece is usually paired with a collarless silk shirt called
jama_atlas
Jama_atlas: (Hindustani: jama
Jāma: (Persian, Synonym: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north.), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Juma_atlas
Juma_atlas: (Hindustani: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Jama_atlas), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. ), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. or
juma_atlas
Juma_atlas: (Hindustani: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Jama_atlas), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. and a veil or head
scarf
Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. (
meyna
Meynā: (Synonym: rusari
Rūsarī: (Synonym: meyna, Qashqai – lačak
), a pan Iranian term for headscarves or veils worn by women in Iran. It is also used sometimes to loosely refer a chador
Chādor: (Persian: a tent), a long cloak like body cover similar to the (Abayah), traditionally worn by southern Iranian women of Hormozgan. Similar to the Afghan chadri, however these do not have a netted veil covering the face of the wearer. or hijab too. , Qashqai – lačak
, čarqad), a kind of head scarf or veil worn by Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the Lori speaking ethnicity in Iran. It is draped over the head and pinned under the chin without covering their faces. ) over a hood (
lačak
).
The hem of the skirt has four tiers of borders – a woollen woven fabric in orange, blue, red, green, and ivory adorning the very edge, a thin strip of woven
coral
Coral: (Greek: korallion, probably from Hebrew: goral – small pebbles), is a pale to medium shade of pink with orange or peach undertones, resembling the colour of certain species of coral. silk
floss
Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. thread with thin metallic thread possibly gold (
zari
Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. ), a repeat of star-shaped motifs created with embedded metal pieces (
badlah
Bādlah: (Hindustani: badal – cloud from Sanskirt: vārdala – water; Synonym: tariq; talli
Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; tariq; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.
; tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
; khus_dozi
Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.
), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.
) possibly in silver, and a lace trimming constructed with crocheted metallic gold and silver
zari
Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. .
It has a plain red cotton fabric lining around its hem only and has a drawstring fastening. A square piece of green silk
damask
Dāmāsk: (Arabic: Damascus – a city in Syria), is a luxurious fabric woven with reversible patterns typically in silk, wool, linen, or cotton. Originating in China, the fabric was perhaps introduced to European traders at Damascus – a major trading post on the Silk Road with a thriving local silk industry. fabric with floral motifs is sewn diagonally in between the two skirts to hold them together. The skirt is possibly divided and loose to allow ease of movement and riding modestly by the wearer.
Qashqai women from the Zagros mountainous regions of Iran are also often seen wearing similar traditional dresses with a few variations in their style as well as names. This is because until c. 1920s the Qashqai traditional wears were heavily influenced and were almost similar to the population of southwest Iran - Fars, Kohgiluyeh, Boyer-Ahmad, west Hormozgan, etc. However, they call such skirts (
tonban
Tonbān: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Salita
Salīta: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Tonban), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic-speaking Qashqai women of Iran. ), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic speaking Qashqai women of Iran. ) or (
salita
Salīta: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Tonban), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic-speaking Qashqai women of Iran. ).
Although part of an ensemble in the collection, the sourcing of each item in the series has been done separately. However, traditional women’s costumes from the Fars province of Iran consisted of similar pieces put together.
Interestingly, this ensemble has a very close resemblance to the regular ensemble (
ZI2018.500737 ASIA,
ZI2018.500737a ASIA,
ZI2018.500737b ASIA) from Fishvar city – also in Fars province, Iran rife with Lori-speaking tribes – it is worth noting that this ensemble is a ceremonial garment for occasional wear. While the northern Lori women would be seen wearing a
scarf
Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. (
tara_awwal
Tarā_awwal: (Arabic: awwal – first); a scarf traditionally worn by the Lori speaking ethnic women before wrapping their traditional turban – tara. ) and a turban (
tara
Tarā: A kind of turban traditionally worn by Lori speaking ethnic women over their scarves. ) over it their heads, the Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the south often drape their heads with a hood (
lačak
) and a fine veil (
meyna
Meynā: (Synonym: rusari
Rūsarī: (Synonym: meyna, Qashqai – lačak
), a pan Iranian term for headscarves or veils worn by women in Iran. It is also used sometimes to loosely refer a chador
Chādor: (Persian: a tent), a long cloak like body cover similar to the (Abayah), traditionally worn by southern Iranian women of Hormozgan. Similar to the Afghan chadri, however these do not have a netted veil covering the face of the wearer. or hijab too. , Qashqai – lačak
, čarqad), a kind of head scarf or veil worn by Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the Lori speaking ethnicity in Iran. It is draped over the head and pinned under the chin without covering their faces. ) over it.
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