Object HistoryThis heavily metal foil embellished tribal Turkmen women’s ceremonial robe was purchased from the Sharjah Islamic Market (suq), recently named The Blue Souk, by
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 1998. It was eventually The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative enhanced its collection.
Object Features This is a metal foil embellished green woollen and red silk tribal – possibly Turkmen – women’s ceremonial robe from Central Asia.
Possibly a wedding jacket it is primarily made of green and red wool and completely covered with small thin metal – either brass or tin – discs with embedded floral motifs. The discs are (
appliqued
Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern.) to the garment with thick woollen threads in black and red. The discs could be distinguished by their sizes in roughly three variants and are arranged in a gradual formation. However, none of the discs are identical in size or shape as they were all hand carved and cut and not moulded or die cut.
The cuffs of the sleeves are made of (
crimson
Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles.) red silk. The lining of the piece is a thick printed cotton fabric with large floral motifs in shades of pink, blue and green over a red base. The edging of the lining is done with broad strips of thick woven cotton in colourful stripes. The piece is completely hand stitched.
Although not much is known about this piece it is possible that this piece originated and/or belonged to an Afghan Turkmen tribe as existing samples of similar jackets and robes present around the world are mostly sourced or attributed to the Turkmen tribes of present-day Afghanistan.
Links
- Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001.
- Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017.
- Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006.
- Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani
Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. : Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013.
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186
- https://books.google.ae/books?id=L-ViFsLAQb0C&printsec=frontcover&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false
- https://nationalclothing.org/asia/112-turkmenistan/605-traditional-women%E2%80%99s-tahya-headwear-in-turkmenistan.html
- https://trc-leiden.nl/collection/?trc=TRC%202000.0120
- http://karakalpak.com/sawkele02.html
