Embroidered cotton jacket – Central Asia

Object History
This beautifully embroidered and colourful woman’s traditional robe or (khalat Khalat: (Arabic: khala’a – to take off, or robe of honour; Synonym: Khil’ah), a traditional Central Asian coat with a simple construction featuring long sleeves, open front, and a flared hem. It has been worn since ancient times by men and women in various forms across the region.  ) was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. at the Sharjah Islamic market (suq), recently named The Blue Souk – an outstanding market for antiques in the UAE – in 1997. It was eventually added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative to enhance its collection.
 
Object Features
This is a (yatak) style khalat Khalat: (Arabic: khala’a – to take off, or robe of honour; Synonym: Khil’ah), a traditional Central Asian coat with a simple construction featuring long sleeves, open front, and a flared hem. It has been worn since ancient times by men and women in various forms across the region.   in plain ivory cotton with heavily embroidered embellishment. The absence of a distinct collar in this yatak is a sign that it was made for women.
The field of the yatak is constructed of plain ivory cotton adorned with heavy (suzani Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. ) embroidery in a range of colourful threads including blue, yellow, red, and peach. The hemline of the yatak is embroidered with a series of flowers arranged in a row. The field of the yatak has floral arrangements including large stylised (paisley Paisley: (Scottish Gaelic, Pàislig: a town in Scotland), often called buta Būta: (Anglicized Persian: boteh – Pinecone shaped motif), known as paisley in English it is the almond or pinecone-shaped motif, especially in textiles. It is believed to have originated from the Cyprus tree a Zoroastrian symbol for life and eternity. In the current Indian context, however, it simply means motif., boteh, amli, or kalgi in the subcontinent and kazuwah in Arabic, is a Persian tear drop motif with a curved end specially in textiles. Its popularity and subsequent local production in 18th century at Paisley are responsible for its nomenclature.) with one side of the front opening mirroring the other.
The lining of the piece is constructed of three different fabrics. The primary lining is in printed cotton with blue and green tiny floral motifs while the sleeves are lined with ivory plain satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. and the borders are of cotton (adras Adras: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – silk; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. ) in green, (crimson Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles.) red, yellow, and ivory.
The border lining is further secured with (butterfly_chain_stitch Butterfly_chain_stitch: A composite stitch that includes three vertical straight stitches brought together in the middle by a horizontal twisted chain stitch. ) in blue thread which also acts as an embellishment. It has slits on two sides to enable ease of movement and riding.
A Central Asian robe or khalat Khalat: (Arabic: khala’a – to take off, or robe of honour; Synonym: Khil’ah), a traditional Central Asian coat with a simple construction featuring long sleeves, open front, and a flared hem. It has been worn since ancient times by men and women in various forms across the region.   like this is very common around the old Silk Road. It travelled through India and Iran to the Middle East and through Ottoman Turkey as far as Russia and Romania.
In medieval times richly decorated robes or khalat Khalat: (Arabic: khala’a – to take off, or robe of honour; Synonym: Khil’ah), a traditional Central Asian coat with a simple construction featuring long sleeves, open front, and a flared hem. It has been worn since ancient times by men and women in various forms across the region.   were given as honorific gifts in India a tradition that was borrowed and continued by the British through the Colonial times when khilat a derivative of khalat Khalat: (Arabic: khala’a – to take off, or robe of honour; Synonym: Khil’ah), a traditional Central Asian coat with a simple construction featuring long sleeves, open front, and a flared hem. It has been worn since ancient times by men and women in various forms across the region.   was used as any gift of money or goods bestowed by the British East India Company.
Thus, it is fascinating how the connotation of a word that was originally loaned from the Arabic word khil’ah Khil’ah: (Arabic: khala’a: to take off, or robe of honour; Synonym: Khalat), traditional honorary clothing bestowed by a ruler to an inferior, started by the prophet Mohammed when he removed his cloak and placed it on Ka'b ibn Zuhayr as a mark of honour. A complete khil’ah may include arms, a horse, or an elephant.  meaning honorary robes changed in Central Asia and referred to any robes. However, when the Central Asian loan word khalat Khalat: (Arabic: khala’a – to take off, or robe of honour; Synonym: Khil’ah), a traditional Central Asian coat with a simple construction featuring long sleeves, open front, and a flared hem. It has been worn since ancient times by men and women in various forms across the region.   reached South Asia its connotation changed back to the meaning of the original Arabic word.
Similarly, the word has been borrowed in modern Russian to mean any robe, while in Romania a derivative halat is used for garments such as smocks, bathrobes, and dressing gowns.
Additionally, the Yiddish and the Ashkenazi Jewish community use another derivative khlat which refers to loose long coats with (shawl Shawl: (Persian: shāl from Hindi: duśālā – Shoulder Mantle), a shawl is a South Asian version of a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. worn or wrapped loosely over the shoulders and is usually made of wool. ) collars. It is also worth noting that these Central Asian long loose robes were often made of or had lining in silk (ikat Ikat: (Indonesian and Malay: Chord, thread, bundle; Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , adras Adras: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – silk; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. ), is a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern. With strong traditions in Southeast Asia, Central Asia, the Indian subcontinent and Central America it probably originated independently around the world. ) fabric also known as (adras Adras: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – silk; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. , ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. ) or (atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world. 

Aṭlas: (Latin: Atticus Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – a large silk producing moth; from Greek: Atlas Atlas: (Arabic and Aramaic: atlas – silk; from Greek: Atlas – Character from Greek mythology Synonym: adras, ikat, abr), a resist dyeing technique that involves tying and dyeing yarns or threads before weaving, resulting in a distinct pattern.  With strong traditions sporadically across the globe it probably originated independently around the world.  – character from Greek mythology; Synonym: harir), common term for silk in the Arab world especially the Levant.

) in Central Asian and Uyghur Turkic respectively is sometimes classified as cloud or (abr) in Tajik as the patterns are reminiscent of the iridescent reflection of clouds on the water.
Usually, silk was cultivated by every household in Central Asia, however, the silk yarn dyeing industry was primarily dominated by the Jewish community of Central Asia.
 
Links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzYwTqTER9Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e7J6Crmp0U

• Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001. 


• Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017. 


• Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006. 


• Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. : Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013. 


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• https://asiasociety.org/central-asia-political-history-19th-century-present 


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• https://www.internationalwardrobe.com/lexicon-2/der-mantelchapan-in-usbekistan-2/ 


• https://www.textile-forum-blog.org/2023/01/on-the-roads-of-samarkand-wonders-of-silk-and-gold/ 


• https://archive.aramcoworld.com/issue/200304/splendid.suzanis.htm 


• https://craftatlas.co/crafts/suzani Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique.