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Silk embroidered women’s robe – Japan

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Local NameKuro_tomesode_kimono
Object CategoryOvergarment    
GenderFemale    
Place Of orginAsia
RegionJapan
Object RangeJapan
DimensionsLength: 157 cm Width: 127 cm
MaterialsSilk    
TechniqueHand Stitched    Hand Embroidered    Print    
Color
MotifFloral    Animal    
ProvenancePurchased, Ms Manami Tominaga, UAE 2017
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI2017.500484 ASIA
Object Note   
Part of a set of five (kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. )s purchased together from the same source along with (ZI2017.500480 ASIA, ZI2017.500481 ASIA, ZI2017.500482 ASIA, ZI2017.500483 ASIA). 
 
Object History 
This exquisite (chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

 fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan. ) silk (kuro_tomesode_kimono Kuro_tomesode_kimono: It is a type of formal kimono worn by traditionally married women. It features a solid black colour with intricate designs usually near the back hem that are often made with gold or silver thread. Traditionally, it is worn for important occasions, such as weddings or formal receptions. ) was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli in 2017 by Ms. Manami Tominaga, a Japanese lady living in the UAE. It was purchased to enhance the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative’s collection along with four more (ZI2017.500480 ASIA, ZI2017.500481 ASIA, ZI2017.500482 ASIA, ZI2017.500483 ASIA). 
 
Object Features   
This is a beautiful and elegant kuro_tomesode_kimono Kuro_tomesode_kimono: It is a type of formal kimono worn by traditionally married women. It features a solid black colour with intricate designs usually near the back hem that are often made with gold or silver thread. Traditionally, it is worn for important occasions, such as weddings or formal receptions.  in black chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

 fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan.  fabric. With five crests this kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  is for the utmost formal occasion.  
This kuro_tomesode_kimono Kuro_tomesode_kimono: It is a type of formal kimono worn by traditionally married women. It features a solid black colour with intricate designs usually near the back hem that are often made with gold or silver thread. Traditionally, it is worn for important occasions, such as weddings or formal receptions.  in black crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

 silk is embellished near the back hem with a landscape scenery depicting storks and cranes in flight above a flowing water body. The embellished elements are both printed as well as embroidered. While the water is depicted through print medium primarily in blue with white and gold highlights, the birds are both printed as well as embroidered. Some of the birds are printed in shades of brown some of them are embroidered in (satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) style using grey, white, and light-yellow silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. as well as metal threads. 
It is a completely hand-stitched piece with an ivory (satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.) lining. For the entire midsection, it retains its original lining while the collar and the sleeves have been replaced with a newer version. The collar also has an ivory satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. (haneri Haneri: A detachable collar that is worn with a kimono. It is typically made of silk and features a wide range of designs, including floral patterns and geometric shapes and serves to protect the fabric from sweat and oil. ) attached to it to keep the (juban Juban: (Portuguese: gibao – undershirt; Synonyms: juhan, jiban), is a type of men’s traditional undergarment in Japan. A long-sleeved, ankle-length robe traditionally made of cotton, linen, or silk in solid colours or simple pattern it is worn to protect the kimono from sweat and oil and provide an additional layer of warmth.  ) of the wearer clean. 
Traditionally, only married women would wear a kuro_tomesode_kimono Kuro_tomesode_kimono: It is a type of formal kimono worn by traditionally married women. It features a solid black colour with intricate designs usually near the back hem that are often made with gold or silver thread. Traditionally, it is worn for important occasions, such as weddings or formal receptions.  like this, especially for important formal occasions like weddings with their respective family crests. Usually, the number of crests varies from one to five with the latter being reserved for extremely formal occasions. 
While the origin of certain techniques and methods in textiles like satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape. embroidery can be traced to China, and its spread across the world could be attributed to the Silk Road, other similar techniques and styles are believed to have originated independently in different regions of the world almost simultaneously in human history possibly from necessity and convenience.  
Though The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative is concerned mainly with the dress and adornment heritage of the Arab world, it does include in its collection articles from areas outside the region. These tend to be collected to illustrate specific shared elements and influences attesting that the Arab world never existed in a vacuum. It constantly drew, and continues to draw, inspiration and influences from the cultures it comes in contact with be it through trade or geopolitical circumstances, especially those countries within the old silk route.  
Therefore, one cannot but draw parallels between many techniques used in such garments, such as (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) and thread knotting techniques (macrame Macrame: (French: macramé – A hand-knotted textile from Turkish: makrama – table spread or towel, from Arabic: miqrama – bedspread possibly with knotted hanging fringes resembling dangling grapes or karam in Arabic) A form of textile or fringe made by a knotting cord in geometrical patterns possibly originating in Babylon and Assyria.Macrame Macrame: (French: macramé – A hand-knotted textile from Turkish: makrama – table spread or towel, from Arabic: miqrama – bedspread possibly with knotted hanging fringes resembling dangling grapes or karam in Arabic) A form of textile or fringe made by a knotting cord in geometrical patterns possibly originating in Babylon and Assyria.: makrəˌmā: (Arabic: karam: tree with dangling grapes), ornamental fringe. The art of knotting cord or string in patterns to make decorative articles. Earliest recorded uses of macramé-style knots as decoration appeared in Babylonian and Assyrian carvings.), or flat metal adornment (talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), that are quite similar to those found in different parts of the Arab region.   
The kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , in particular, displays similarities that can be drawn with the pattern of Arab women’s overgarment or the (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ), common to the Gulf region constructed of three uncut panels of broad clothes forming the central body panel and the side sleeve panels very similar in shape to the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .   
 
Links

  • Katazome Start to Finish with John Marshall



  • Morishima, Yuki, et al. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Refashioned: Japan’s Impact on International Fashion. USA, Asian Art Museum, 2018. 



  • Kahlenberg, Mary Hunt. Asian Costumes and Textiles: From the Bosphorus to Fujiama. Italy, Skira, 2001. 



  • Liddell, Jill. The Story of the Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. . USA, E P Dutton, 1989. 



  • Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture. Reaktion Books, 1993. 



  • Gluckman, Dale Carolyn and Sharon Sadako Takeda. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century.  in Edo-Period Japan. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1996. 

  • Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Kyoto to Catwalk. 27 Aug. – 25 Oct. 2020, V&A South Kensington, London https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -kyoto-to-catwalk 

  • Gluckman, Dale Carolyn. “Liza Dalby. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.:Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.” Museum Anthropology, vol. 19, no. 1, Mar. 1995, pp. 79–81. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.1525/mua.1995.19.1.79


 

  • “Meisen Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  From HALI 184 - HALI.” HALI, 24 July 2015, hali.com/news/meisen-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .

  • Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Style: Edo Traditions to Modern Design: The John C. Weber Collection. USA, Met Publications, www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/Kimono_Style 



  • Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Refashioned. 8 Feb. – 5 May, 2019, Asian Art Museum, San Francisco https://exhibitions.asianart.org/exhibitions/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -refashioned/ 



  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako. Monumenta Nipponica, vol. 49, no. 2, 1994, pp. 245–47. JSTOR,https://doi.org/10.2307/2385177. Accessed 10 May 2023. 



  • Guth, Christine. Journal of Japanese Studies, vol. 20, no. 2, 1994, pp. 518–22. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/133209. Accessed 10 May 2023. 



  • Richard, Naomi Noble. “Nō Motifs in the Decoration of a Mid-Edo Period Kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. .” Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 25, 1990, pp. 175–83. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1512899. Accessed 10 May 2023. 



  • Kramer, Elizabeth. “Review of ‘Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : A Modern History.’” Reviews in History, School of Advanced Study, 2015. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.14296/rih/2014/1787. 



  • https://daily.jstor.org/the-surprising-history-of-the-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. / 



  • https://artsandculture.google.com/story/the-origin-of-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -the-kyoto-museum-of-traditional-crafts/iQWRIzW_YsXFJQ?hl=en 



  • https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/collection/meihin/senshoku/item07/ 



  •   https://blog.nms.ac.uk/2021/12/03/stories-in-silk/ 



  • https://www.si.edu/object/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. %3Achndm_1931-4-65 



  • https://www.tmja.org.il/eng/Exhibitions/493/Decorative_Motifs_in_Japanese_Art 



  • https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/A_2014-3009-61 



  • https://www.jstor.org/stable/4101580?origin=crossref 



  • https://www.britannica.com/event/Genroku-period 



  • https://artsandculture.google.com/story/fashion-books-of-the-edo-period-kyoto-prefectural-library-and-archives/OwXxeSDqD6O5Lw?hl=en 



  • https://www.rochestertextile.com/post/398841446836/japanese-crepe

    Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

    -fabrics-chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe

    Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

     fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China     chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan.         -kinsha     

  • https://www.kyoto-museums.jp/en/museum/east/3754/ 

  • https://www.kitchenstudiofactory.com/critical-craft-biography/rags-to-riches-kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. -to-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  

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