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Resist printed silk women’s jacket – Japan

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Local NameHaori
Object CategoryOvergarment    
GenderFemale    
Place Of orginAsia
RegionJapan
Object RangeJapan
DimensionsLength: 95 cm Width: 122 cm
MaterialsSilk    
TechniqueHand Stitched    Embellished    
MotifFloral    
ProvenancePurchased, dealer, London 2019
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI2019.500923 ASIA
Object History 
This rich plum brown printed (haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions. ) on (chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China
chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan.
 
) silk for women was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage.
in 2019 from a dealer in London to enhance The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection.
 
Object Features   
This beautiful women’s haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions.  constructed of chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China
chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan.
 
silk is embellished with large floral motifs in (yuzen_print Yuzen_print: (Japanese: Yuzensai Miyazaki – a famous 16th-17th century fan maker from Kyoto, Japan), a traditional Japanese resist dying technique invented by Miyazaki where the resist paste is applied on the fabric with a cone. This process of dyeing won favour within the merchant class during the Edo period – 1603-1867. ) technique. The floral motifs are very similar to another item in the collection (ZI2017.500485 ASIA) however, the latter was heavily hand embroidered.

Embellished with floral motifs on both sides of the sleeves and on either side of the front partition, this haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions.  has five crests that testify that it was used as a formal piece. The floral motifs in shades of green with touches of blue, orange, scarlet, and yellow highlights are primarily of peonies symbolizing bravery, honour as well as good fortune. It has an equally lavishly decorative lining in a similar chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China
chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan.
 
fabric.
The lining is printed in dual colour, the top is filled with similar floral motifs as the outside in the same range of colours, while the bottom of the outside is black. The floral patterns from the two seem to grow downwards into the black area.
It is worth noting that the economic growth and increase in disposable income amongst the merchant class much of which were spent on clothing resulted in some dramatic fashion trends. The existing sumptuary laws that limited the embellished haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions.  to the wealthy upper class led the merchant-class men in Japan to wear plain haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions.  with lavish linings a trend that is still in practice today. Additionally in the early 1800s the Japanese courtesans – geisha – in the Hanamachi of Fukogawa Tokyo who were known for their uniqueness in fashion started wearing the haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions.  over their kimonos, thus popularising it amongst the women. Until then haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions.  was only worn by men. By the 1930s, it had become a common practice for women to wear haori Haori: It is a type of traditional Japanese jacket traditionally worn over a kimono by men. It features an open front tied with cords. Often made of silk or wool it can be adorned with various designs and patterns, making it a popular garment for formal occasions.  and has remained so even today.
Though The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative is concerned mainly with the dress and adornment heritage of the Arab world, it does include in its collection articles from areas outside the region. These tend to be collected to illustrate specific shared elements and influences attesting that the Arab world never existed in a vacuum. It constantly drew, and continues to draw, inspiration and influences from the cultures it comes in contact with be it through trade or geopolitical circumstances, especially those countries within the old silk route.
Therefore, one cannot but draw parallels between many techniques used in such garments, such as (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) and thread knotting techniques (macrame Macrame: (French: macramé – A hand-knotted textile from Turkish: makrama – table spread or towel, from Arabic: miqrama – bedspread possibly with knotted hanging fringes resembling dangling grapes or karam in Arabic) A form of textile or fringe made by a knotting cord in geometrical patterns possibly originating in Babylon and Assyria.Macrame Macrame: (French: macramé – A hand-knotted textile from Turkish: makrama – table spread or towel, from Arabic: miqrama – bedspread possibly with knotted hanging fringes resembling dangling grapes or karam in Arabic) A form of textile or fringe made by a knotting cord in geometrical patterns possibly originating in Babylon and Assyria.: makrəˌmā: (Arabic: karam: tree with dangling grapes), ornamental fringe. The art of knotting cord or string in patterns to make decorative articles. Earliest recorded uses of macramé-style knots as decoration appeared in Babylonian and Assyrian carvings.), or flat metal adornment (talli

Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi

Khus_dozi: (Persian: Khvosh – an Iranian province; dozi – needlework; Synonym: tariq; talli; tulle_bi_talli; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

), that are quite similar to those found in different parts of the Arab region.
The kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. , in particular, displays similarities that can be drawn with the pattern of Arab women’s overgarment or the (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ), common to the Gulf region, constructed of three uncut panels of broad clothes forming the central body panel and the side sleeve panels very similar in shape to the kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .
 
Links

  • Katazome Start to Finish with John Marshall



  • Morishima, Yuki, et al. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Refashioned: Japan’s Impact on International Fashion. USA, Asian Art Museum, 2018. 



  • Kahlenberg, Mary Hunt. Asian Costumes and Textiles: From the Bosphorus to Fujiama. Italy, Skira, 2001. 



  • Liddell, Jill. The Story of the Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. . USA, E P Dutton, 1989. 



  • Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture. Reaktion Books, 1993. 



  • Gluckman, Dale Carolyn and Sharon Sadako Takeda. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century.  in Edo-Period Japan. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1996. 

  • Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Kyoto to Catwalk. 27 Aug. – 25 Oct. 2020, V&A South Kensington, London https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -kyoto-to-catwalk 

  • Gluckman, Dale Carolyn. “Liza Dalby. Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.:Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : Fashioning Culture.” Museum Anthropology, vol. 19, no. 1, Mar. 1995, pp. 79–81. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.1525/mua.1995.19.1.79


 

  • “Meisen Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  From HALI 184 - HALI.” HALI, 24 July 2015, hali.com/news/meisen-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. .

  • Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Style: Edo Traditions to Modern Design: The John C. Weber Collection. USA, Met Publications, www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/Kimono_Style 



  • Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan.  Refashioned. 8 Feb. – 5 May, 2019, Asian Art Museum, San Francisco https://exhibitions.asianart.org/exhibitions/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -refashioned/ 



  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako. Monumenta Nipponica, vol. 49, no. 2, 1994, pp. 245–47. JSTOR,https://doi.org/10.2307/2385177. Accessed 10 May 2023. 



  • Guth, Christine. Journal of Japanese Studies, vol. 20, no. 2, 1994, pp. 518–22. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/133209. Accessed 10 May 2023. 



  • Richard, Naomi Noble. “Nō Motifs in the Decoration of a Mid-Edo Period Kosode Kosode: (Japanese: small sleeve or opening), a traditional Japanese inner robe for both genders. Similar to a kimono but with a wider body, longer collars, and narrower and rounded sleeves, often stitched to the body, these under robes were lavishly decorated and were worn on top from late 16th century. .” Metropolitan Museum Journal, vol. 25, 1990, pp. 175–83. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1512899. Accessed 10 May 2023. 



  • Kramer, Elizabeth. “Review of ‘Kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. : A Modern History.’” Reviews in History, School of Advanced Study, 2015. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.14296/rih/2014/1787. 



  • https://daily.jstor.org/the-surprising-history-of-the-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. / 



  • https://artsandculture.google.com/story/the-origin-of-kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. -the-kyoto-museum-of-traditional-crafts/iQWRIzW_YsXFJQ?hl=en 



  • https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/collection/meihin/senshoku/item07/ 



  •   https://blog.nms.ac.uk/2021/12/03/stories-in-silk/ 



  • https://www.si.edu/object/kimono Kimono: (Japanese: ki : wearing, mono: thing, Singular: Kimono) A traditional Japanese long loose robe with wide sleeves tied with a sash around the waist. Presently it is the national dress of Japan. %3Achndm_1931-4-65 



  • https://www.tmja.org.il/eng/Exhibitions/493/Decorative_Motifs_in_Japanese_Art 



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  • https://artsandculture.google.com/story/fashion-books-of-the-edo-period-kyoto-prefectural-library-and-archives/OwXxeSDqD6O5Lw?hl=en 



  • https://www.rochestertextile.com/post/398841446836/japanese-crepe

    Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

    -fabrics-chirimen chirimen: A Japanese crepe

    Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

    fabric traditionally made from silk. It has a distinctive pebbly texture and is commonly used in kimono and other traditional garments. Originally brought from China
    chirimen weaving extensively developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) and continues to be a popular textile in modern Japan.
     
    -kinsha
     

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