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| Local Name | Gargush |
| Object Category | Headwear |
| Gender | Female |
| Date of object | c. 1840 -1900 |
| Place Of orgin | Yemen |
| Region | Bayt al Faqih, Al Hudaydah |
| Object Range | Yemen |
| Dimensions | Length: 36 cm Width: 21 cm |
| Materials | Silk Cotton Metal Other |
| Technique | Hand Stitched Hand Embroidered |
| Color | |
| Motif | Floral Abstract Geometric |
| Provenance | Purchased, Dealer, Yemen 2018 |
| Location | The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative |
| Status | In storage |
| ZI number | ZI2018.500267a YEMEN |
Object Note
Part of a set along with another item (ZI2018.500267 YEMEN) also in the collection.
Object History
This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt. Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
Object Features
This is a woman’s coif or cap (gargush
Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect.
The field of the gargush
Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect. Passementerie: (French: passement – braid), decorative trimmings or edgings for textile, often made of threads of silk, cotton, or precious metals such as gold and silver, generally braided or twisted into cords. Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect. Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect. Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt. Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt. Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
The neck of the piece is also embellished with ivory cotton passementerie
Passementerie: (French: passement – braid), decorative trimmings or edgings for textile, often made of threads of silk, cotton, or precious metals such as gold and silver, generally braided or twisted into cords. Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt. Passementerie: (French: passement – braid), decorative trimmings or edgings for textile, often made of threads of silk, cotton, or precious metals such as gold and silver, generally braided or twisted into cords.
Repeats of floral patterns with cowry shells feature within the framed area, along with single shells scattered sporadically. The rest of the field is also adorned with repeats of floral and foliage patterns in ivory cotton passementerie
Passementerie: (French: passement – braid), decorative trimmings or edgings for textile, often made of threads of silk, cotton, or precious metals such as gold and silver, generally braided or twisted into cords. Tallī: (Turkish: tel – wire, string), Gulf Arab – a woven braided trimming made with metal wire, threads and ribbons often sewn on detachable panels used as embellishments. Other – (Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt. Passementerie: (French: passement – braid), decorative trimmings or edgings for textile, often made of threads of silk, cotton, or precious metals such as gold and silver, generally braided or twisted into cords.
The underside of the piece is lined with the same black double_weave silk with extra patches for reinforcement underneath the embroidered areas. It is a thoroughly hand-embroidered and hand-stitched piece.
A series of silver pendants, bells, and cylindrical capsules hang from the bottom edge of the gargush
Gargūsh: (Arabic: Qarqūsh), a hood-shaped coif traditionally worn by women of the Jewish community in Yemen. In this case, the name is a variant of the original Arabic word in the local Yemeni dialect. Khamsah: (Arabic: Five; Synonym: Hamsa; Hand_of_Fatima), a symbol of protection and good luck in various Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cultures, featuring an open palm with an eye in the center. An amulet motif believed to ward off evil its ancient origins date back to Mesopotamian, Egyptian and Greek cultures.
The cylindrical capsules are hollow in the centre, perhaps a provision to hold holy scriptures. Furthermore, these are flanked with small (coral Coral: (Greek: korallion, probably from Hebrew: goral – small pebbles), is a pale to medium shade of pink with orange or peach undertones, resembling the colour of certain species of coral.) beads around them. The pendants and amulets have fine filigree of both geometric and floral patterns.
The piece is completely lined with a plain ivory cotton fabric. Although it has no embroidered embellishment, the piece is thoroughly hand-stitched.