Embellished velvet waistcoat – Tunisia

Object Note  

Part of a lot with two more items (ZI2023.501013.1 MOROCCO and ZI2023.501013.2 TUNISIA) also in the collection.  

Object History 

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from Augusta Auctions, USA, in 2023, to be added to and enhance The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. 

Object Features  

This is a woman’s corset-style waistcoat (ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah).) in dark blue silk velvet fabric featuring heavy metal thread embellishment.  

Possibly a ceremonial piece, the field of the waistcoat is heavily embellished with metal thread, possibly silver, and highlighted with silver sequins. The front open ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). has a scooped neckline with braided silver thread edging and a series of bell-shaped braided silver thread buttons.  

The field is heavily embellished with floral and foliage repeats along a wavy central vine with (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) style embroidery. Uniquely enough, the embroidered metal thread on this piece is over an underlayer of metal sequins.  

The ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). has a pair of triangular-shaped conical shoulder pads which feature a similar floral and foliage pattern enclosed within a triangular frame of scalloped banner border. The back of the ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). features a similar pattern as the front, except the centre has a rectangular box with a scalloped banner border and a large floral pattern in the middle.  

The ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). is completely hand-stitched and has a plain pink silk (satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.) lining. The underside of the front of the piece has a metal hook and eye for fastening. Interestingly, waistcoats like this ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). and/or a (farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

) were a common part of a woman’s wedding trousseau in the North African Arab countries under Ottoman rule.  

More Info 

The ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). is a sleeveless or short-sleeved vest traditionally crafted from velvet, silk, or brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts. . It is intricately embroidered with gold or silver threads, known as fatlah Fātlah: (Arabic: fatala: to twist/twine, pl. fātlāt/ftūl), in the UAE colloquially, it refers to braids in (tallī) work. The braid or strand resembles a running stitch, where the effect is attained by continuously looping metallic thread with silk, cotton, or synthetic thread.  , al_majbud

Al_majbūd: (Arabic; Synonym: tarz_al_sqilli

Ṭarz_al_sqillī: (Persian: Durz / Dorz – needlework; Italian: Sicily – an Italian Island; Synonym: al_majbud), a traditional embroidery technique from Morocco similar or akin to satin_stitch and Turkish dival embroidery characterised by its use of metal thread often silver that was historically imported from Sicily.

), a traditional embroidery technique from Algeria similar or akin to satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape. and Turkish dival Dīval: (Possibly Persian: divan – throne), an embroidery technique prominent during the Ottoman era done with metal threads or wire with a cardboard base usually over velvet. The motif is cut out on a cardboard and the metal thread is then embroidered over it using satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape. and gimped couching style embroidery. embroidery characterised by its use of metal thread often silver that was historically imported from Sicily.

, or sha Sha: It is a gauze like sheer silk fabric characterised by its crispness. It is often used to make unlined summer, generally informal, kimonos.  'rah. The ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). is distinguished by special embellishments referred to as "muhaīyrazāt," positioned on both sides beneath the chest. Unlike the karaku, the ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). features a lower neckline, extending below the chest, and is further ornamented with buttons made from gold threads.  

The ghlilah Ghlīlah: (diminutive of the Arabic: ghlālah: waistcoat, synonyms: sadār, sadrīyah, sadārah, strah) short or medium length waistcoat worn generally with balloon pants (sarwāl mdawar) also known as (sarawāl chlqah). is primarily associated with the traditional Algerian heritage, particularly from the city of Algiers. 

 

Links 

• Besancenot, Jean, et al. Costumes of Morocco. Kegan Paul International, 1990. 
• Scarce, Jennifer M. Women’s Costume of the near and Middle East. Unwin Hyman, 1987. 
• Montaldo, Elisabetta, and Clotilde Sarnico. L’oro Del Mare: L’antico Costume Delle Donne Di Procida. Libreria Dante & Descartes, 2009. 
• Rubens, Alfred. A History of Jewish Costume. Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1967. 
• Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, and Norman A. Stillman. Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Brill, 2000. 
• https://hraier.com/ar
• https://www.al-monitor.com/originals/