Embellished velvet jacket – Morocco 

Object History  

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from a UK-based independent dealer in 2022, to be added to and enhance The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. 

Object Features  

This is a purple silk velvet ceremonial waistcoat (farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

) featuring heavy embellishment in a variety of embroidery techniques.  

The field is embellished mostly with metal threads, possibly in silver, embellished on the purple silk velvet base using (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) style embroidery. It primarily features abstract design formations inspired by floral patterns, achieved through the coiling and twisting of threads.  

The farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

is front open with a wide panel of possibly (cloth_of_gold

Cloth_of_gold: (English; Synonym: gold_cloth

Gold_cloth: (English; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; tela_aurea

Tela_aurea: (Latin: tela – web, aurea – gold/golden; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; gold_cloth), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

; tela_aurea

Tela_aurea: (Latin: tela – web, aurea – gold/golden; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; gold_cloth), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige

) / (gold_cloth

Gold_cloth: (English; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; tela_aurea

Tela_aurea: (Latin: tela – web, aurea – gold/golden; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; gold_cloth), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

) also famously known by its Latin name (tela_aurea

Tela_aurea: (Latin: tela – web, aurea – gold/golden; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; gold_cloth), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

) (appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern.) on either side as well as the entire neckline, making it look like a pectoral ornament. These panels are bordered by a line of repeats of a spiral motif in metal threads, which is followed by a thin braided trimming also in metal threads. 

The two wide panels and neckline of tela_aurea

Tela_aurea: (Latin: tela – web, aurea – gold/golden; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; gold_cloth), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

features motifs steeped in Islamic and Middle Eastern symbolism, such as the palm-shaped amulet (khamsah

Khamsah: (Arabic: Five; Synonym: Hamsa; Hand_of_Fatima), a symbol of protection and good luck in various Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cultures, featuring an open palm with an eye in the center. An amulet motif believed to ward off evil its ancient origins date back to Mesopotamian, Egyptian and Greek cultures.

), also famously known as the (Hand_of_Fatimah

Hand_of_Fatimah: (Arabic: Fatima – Prophet’s daughter; Synonym: Hamsa; Khamsa), a symbol of protection and good luck in various Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cultures, featuring an open palm with an eye in the center. An amulet motif believed to ward off evil its ancient origins date back to Mesopotamian, Egyptian and Greek cultures.

), the crescent moon, and the star. 

From the use of motifs steeped in Islamic symbolism, especially the khamsah

Khamsah: (Arabic: Five; Synonym: Hamsa; Hand_of_Fatima), a symbol of protection and good luck in various Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cultures, featuring an open palm with an eye in the center. An amulet motif believed to ward off evil its ancient origins date back to Mesopotamian, Egyptian and Greek cultures.

, it could be safely assessed that this farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

was perhaps made for a woman for her wedding day. It should be noted that men too wore farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

, however, only the women’s farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

is often heavily embellished with gold and silver. 

The corners of each of these panels feature a floral-inspired abstract pattern of metal thread held down by couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

. A small foliage pattern is reflected at the lower corner of each front flap. 

The hem of the farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

is trimmed in two layers. While the inner layer is constructed of a thin panel of a series of vertically parallel lines of braided and corded metal threads, the outer layer is a single line of braided ivory silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. thread. 

The back of the piece features three panels, with a long central V-shaped panel with a heavily embellished floral pattern done in couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

style embroidery with braided metal threads. The central panel features two vines with floral and foliage patterns sprouting from a large diamond-shaped vase with a floral base. The two side panels feature thick tela_aurea

Tela_aurea: (Latin: tela – web, aurea – gold/golden; Synonym: cloth_of_gold; gold_cloth), a luxurious fabric woven with gold threads, creating a shimmering effect. Historically prized for its opulence, it was used in royal garments, ecclesiastical vestments, and ceremonial textiles, signifying wealth and prestige.

panels appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. as borders with a curling foliage pattern. 

The piece is lined with a plain pink, possibly synthetic fabric in (satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.) weave. The farmlah

Farmlah: (Arabic), a traditional ceremonial sleeveless vest worn by both men and women, especially of the Berber community of the North African countries. The garment is opulently embellished over a velvet base with gold and silver threads for women while the male counterparts are considerably simpler.

has a deep pocket on the underside of the left front panel. The piece is completely hand-stitched and hand-embroidered however, the workmanship looks very professional, possibly done by a master tailor and embroiderer.  

Links 

• Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016.  
• Besancenot, Jean, et al. Costumes of Morocco. Kegan Paul International, 1990.  
• Scarce, Jennifer M. Women’s Costume of the near and Middle East. Unwin Hyman, 1987.  
• Montaldo, Elisabetta, and Clotilde Sarnico. L’oro Del Mare: L’antico Costume Delle Donne Di Procida. Libreria Dante & Descartes, 2009.  
• Rubens, Alfred. A History of Jewish Costume. Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1967.  
• Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, and Norman A. Stillman. Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Brill, 2000.