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Tasselled felt skull cap – Egypt

Local Name	Tarboush
Object Category	Headwear
Gender	Male
Date of object	c. 20th century
Place Of orgin	Egypt
Region	Egypt
Object Range	Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Morocco, Türkiye, et al
Dimensions	Length: 13 cm Width: 20 cm
Materials	Silk Wool Leather
Technique	Hand Stitched Dyed
Color
Provenance	Donated, Akram Al Nagdy, Egypt 2023
Location	The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
Status	In storage
ZI number	ZI2023.501015 EGYPT

Object History

This piece was donated to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative by Akram Al Nagdy in 2023 to be added to and enhance the collection. The piece was acquired by purchase in May of 2023, during one of his trips to his hometown of Cairo.

Currently a marketing and communications professional, Mr Al Nagdy works as a content manager at one of the world’s largest PR and advertising agencies. With experience in several industries, Al Nagdy’s passion for history and heritage led him to create The Royal Couturier, a blog documenting the history of fashion and jewellery of the royal family of Egypt and the princely family of Monaco, special focus on HSH Princess Charlene of Monaco, in 2011.

After learning about The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative and its objectives through social media, Mr Al Nagdy approached one of the trustees and offered to be a consultant. We at The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. are grateful for all of Mr Al Nagdy’s contributions and help.

During his trip to Cairo in the summer of 2023, Mr. Al Nagdy’s history aficionado parents took him to some of the landmarks of Fatimid and Khedival Cairo. In Wekalet El Ghoury, he found the storefront of Ahmed Mohammed Ahmed El Tarabeeshy, one of the very few tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

Fes: (synonyms: tarboush, tarbooch, tarboosh, tarbush, chachia, chechia, fez), generally red cylindrical men's felt cap with tassel. Also known as Fez after the city famous for its production in Morocco. The term is also used to denote the tassel, a bundle of suspended threads.

boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this head wear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and became the forerunner of other similar caps with slight variations.

makers left in Egypt.

After recognizing them, Mr Al Nagdy spontaneously decided to buy a tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

to be donated to The . Since every boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

is fitted to the wearer’s head, this piece was tailored to fit Al Nagdy’s father.

Ahmed Mohammed Ahmed El Tarabeeshy’s business was established shortly after the tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

was mandated for government officials in Egypt in the late 1800s, now managed by Ahmed Mohammed, the 9th generation of a family of boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

makers. For a long time, Ahmed El Tarabeeshy was the official purveyor of the royal court, producing boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

for palace officials as well as the king himself. The then-large enterprise shrank in size after the mandate for boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

was lifted following the abolishment of the monarchy.

Using a century-old machine with the royal emblem, today the factory produces tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

for nostalgic history lovers, TV and film productions, and bands. The business’s main product, however, is the (Immah) Azhareya, which is worn by Azhar sheikhs. It has quite a similar feel to the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

, but features a white fabric band that’s wrapped around it.

Further details on the tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

maker, along with the cultural significance, history, and heritage of the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

in Egyptian society, are explored in the article "The Tarbush: A History of Change," authored by Mr. Al Nagdy for The Initiative.

Object Features

This is a flat-topped skull cap (tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

) constructed of red felt. It has a lining of red silk of () weave and brown leather. Closely resembling the Tunisian () and the Ottoman Turkish ( boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

), the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

is usually narrower, fitting with a taller structure where the crown sits higher on the head.

Constricted of wool imported from Turkey, it is embellished with a tassel made of black, thinly braided silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. thread that sprouts from the middle of the crown. The tassel is spread along one side and secured in place with a thin line of stitch midway, with the rest of it to dangle freely. The piece is thoroughly hand-stitched and has no other embellishment.

It is noteworthy that the highest quality wool used for crafting the tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

historically originated from Austria, which was also the leading producer of the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

in Europe. This prominence may be attributed to the Bosnian infantry regiments of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, who were distinguished by their use of the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

or boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

from their inception in 1885 until the conclusion of World War I.

More Info

The reign of the Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II (1785-1839) witnessed the ‘tanzimat’ or reforms, a series of which were later continued by his successors, Sultan Abdülmecid I (1839-61) and Sultan Abdülaziz (1861-76). As a subject of many controversies, the ‘tanzimat’ was often written off by Western critics as an appeasement policy by the Ottomans to garner European support during critical moments.

One significant aspect of the 'tanzimat' was the curtailing of power of the Janissary corps, the elite unit of the Ottoman Sultan's household troops, established either by Sultan Orhan Gazi (1323-1362) or his son Sultan Murad I (1362-1389) in the 14th century. To counter the Janissaries' growing influence, Mahmud I pursued a policy of modernization through Westernization, implementing socio-political reforms, including sumptuary laws that allowed men to wear Western clothing in public.

By c. 1820s, European clothes started replacing the traditional Ottoman costumes at court and spread through society. One setback, however, was the Ottoman turban. As the ‘tanzimat’ aimed for more equality amongst its citizens, at least apparently, the Ottoman turban acted as a marker to differentiate between a Muslim from a non-Muslim within the Empire. Considered as an integral part of Islamic costume, it was tricky and unacceptable to just abandon it altogether for the sake of further consolidation of the Empire.

To address this, the Sultan realized the need for an alternative headwear that met religious requirements. The western equivalent of brimmed hats did not meet the religious requirements as it prevented men from pressing their heads to the ground while praying.

Legend has it that Sultan Mahmud I was gifted a Tunisian (chechyah), which he considered a good compromise. Subsequently, the iconic Ottoman Turkish (fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

) was introduced to society through the Janissary corps, who rebelled against wearing it, resulting in their final crush paving the way for Mahmud I to officially introduce a “modern” Ottoman army with the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

as a part of their uniform. The eventual acceptance of the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

led to the formal adoption of it as part of the Ottoman court's attire, including military and bureaucratic personnel, through a royal decree around 1826, regardless of religious, ethnic, or social background.

In Egypt, a similar headwear known as the tarboush

Ṭarbūsh: (Turkish: terpos – turban; from Persian serposh – headdress; Synonym: fez

Fez: (Ottoman Turkish: fes

became associated with the aristocracy or 'effendy'. Although resembling the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

in its use of red wool and construction, the boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

featured a taller crown and narrower fit. The boyası - madder to Arabic Fez – Moroccan city; Synonym: tarboush), a type of traditional skull cap with a high crown. With a possible Mediterranean origin, this headwear gained popularity in the late Ottoman period and was named after the Moroccan city where the dye was extracted.

held the status of elite headwear in Egypt for nearly a century and a half until the 1952 coup that deposed King Farouk, after which it rapidly fell out of fashion and disappeared from the streets of Egypt, becoming a relic of the past.

Links

Mehrez, S. Costumes of Egypt. First, Institut Français D’Archéologie Orientale, 2023.
Rugh, A. B. Reveal and Conceal. First, Syracuse University Press, 1986.
Bos, J. Egypt’s Wearable Heritage. First, Blikvelduitgevers Publishers, 2016.
RAWI Egypt’s Heritage Review, no. 11, 2021.
Devine, Dawn, and Alisha Westerfeld. The Cloth of Egypt All About Assiut: Assiut – Asyut – Tulle-Bi-Telli. Ibexa Press, 2014.
Golden Ages, Dark Ages: Imagining the Past in Anthropology and History. United States, University of California Press, 2021.
Baker, Patricia L. A History of Islamic Court Dress in the Middle East, Thesis (Ph.D.) - University of London, 1986.
Ahmed, Doaa, and Marwa Yassin. “The art of traditional embroidery of Siwa Oasis as an inspiration source for the design of innovative woven women’s clothing fabrics.” International Design Journal, vol. 13, no. 4, 1 July 2023, pp. 235–257, https://doi.org/10.21608/idj.2023.305345.
Lugatism. “Headwear and Footwear in the Mamluk Sultanate (1250–1517 CE).” Lugatism, 14 Feb. 2024, https://lugatism.wordpress.com/2022/06/22/headwear-and-footwear-in-the-mamluk-sultanate-2/
“The Tanzimat Reforms (1839–76).” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, inc., www.britannica.com/place/Ottoman-Empire/The-Tanzimat-reforms-1839-76. Accessed 31 Mar. 2024.
“Ancient Egyptian Agriculture.” Ancient Egyptian Agriculture | Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, https://www.fao.org/country-showcase/item-detail/en/c/1287824/#:~:text=Their%20farming%20practices%20allowed%20them,field%20planting%20in%20the%20floodplains.
Maadi, CSA. “Ten Thousand Years of Wearing Linen.” CSA Reviving Community, CSA Reviving Community, 3 Aug. 2023, https://csa-living.org/oasis-blog/ten-thousand-years-of-wearing-linen

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