Silk patchwork robe – Karemlesh

Object Note  

Part of a lot along with 24 more items (ZI2022.500999.1 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.1a IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.1b IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.2 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.2b IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.3 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.3a IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.4 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.4a IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.5 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.5a IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.6 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.7 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.8 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.9 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.10 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.11 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.12 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.13 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.14 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.15 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.16 IRAQ, ZI2022.500999.17 IRAQ, and ZI2022.500999.18 IRAQ) also in the collection.  

This piece, along with (ZI2022.5009992 IRAQ and ZI2022.500999.2b IRAQ) forms a complete set of ensembles.  

Object History 

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. from Steve Al Sati, an independent dealer from Erbil, Iraq, in 2022, to be added to and enhance the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection. 

Mr Al Sati acquired the piece from Jenvian Suleiman Al Shamas in 2021. Born in Karamlesh, in the Nineveh governorate of Iraq, in 1942, Jenvian was married in 1959. On August 6, 2014, Karamlesh was taken over by ISIS (Daesh), following which the town witnessed a mass exodus of its inhabitants to Erbil. However, Jenvian refused to leave Karamlesh for a safer refuge elsewhere.  

Object Features  

This is a woman’s patchwork front open silk robe or possibly a long coat (kurtak

Kurtak: (Persian: Kurtah – A long loose collarless tunic or shirt of Central Asian origin), a long narrow, front open coat with narrow sleeves or sometimes sleeveless worn by both Kurdish men and women. It is a component of a traditional Kurdish costume.

). It features long loose sleeves, a high gathered waistline, small side slits, and a pocket. The sayah

Ṣāyah: (Classical Persian: sāya – shadow; Synonyms: zubūn, qumbāz, gombaz

Gombaz: (Arabic; Synonyms: sayah, zubūn, qumbāz, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

),  also pronounced ‘umbaz or ‘imbaz is a long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak either with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by both men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions. 

, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

), long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions.

displays a variety of fabrics patched together in blue and black. 

Unlike other sayah

Ṣāyah: (Classical Persian: sāya – shadow; Synonyms: zubūn, qumbāz, gombaz

Gombaz: (Arabic; Synonyms: sayah, zubūn, qumbāz, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

),  also pronounced ‘umbaz or ‘imbaz is a long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak either with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by both men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions. 

, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

), long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions.

which flows freely in an A-line shape from the shoulders without a defined waistline, this piece has a somewhat fitted (bodice_yoke Bodice_Yoke: (Synonym: Yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam. ), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  ) and a defined waistline.  

The (yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam. ) is constructed of possibly black silk (crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

) with woven repeats of floral bouquets in two different sizes. The skirt of the piece is constructed of blue silk (damask Dāmāsk: (Arabic: Damascus – a city in Syria), is a luxurious fabric woven with reversible patterns typically in silk, wool, linen, or cotton. Originating in China, the fabric was perhaps introduced to European traders at Damascus – a major trading post on the Silk Road with a thriving local silk industry. ) with repeats of rose bouquets. 

 While the sleeves of the piece are constructed of fine cotton also in black, a patch of black fabric, possibly silk crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

, covers a side of the skirt, forming the pocket.  

The lining of the piece is also in a variety of patched fabrics. While the yoke Yoke: (Synonym: Bodice_Yoke), a structured pattern fitted at the shoulders defining the structure of women’s garments. Introduced in c. 1880s it defines the transition between the upper and lower parts of the garments and can now be found stitched-in where the blouse is separated from the skirt by a horizontal seam.  is lined with black silk, the skirt is lined with a combination of blue and black silk crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

. In line with its patchwork, the workmanship – stitching – of the piece is also done partially by hand and machine.  

The piece shows several signs of wear and tear, testifying to its years of usage.  

Interestingly, the piece has all the tell-tale signs of a sayah

Ṣāyah: (Classical Persian: sāya – shadow; Synonyms: zubūn, qumbāz, gombaz

Gombaz: (Arabic; Synonyms: sayah, zubūn, qumbāz, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

),  also pronounced ‘umbaz or ‘imbaz is a long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak either with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by both men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions. 

, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

), long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions.

, however, certain divergence makes it a unique case. Moreover, its origin in the northern Iraqi region of Karemlesh, a town south of Mosul in the Nineveh Governorate, which was once known for its Kurdish as well as Christian communities, makes it difficult to identify the piece as a sayah

Ṣāyah: (Classical Persian: sāya – shadow; Synonyms: zubūn, qumbāz, gombaz

Gombaz: (Arabic; Synonyms: sayah, zubūn, qumbāz, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

),  also pronounced ‘umbaz or ‘imbaz is a long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak either with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by both men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions. 

, yalak

Yalak: (Ottoman Turkic: yelek – a hip or waist length vest; from Old Anatolian: yélek – Vest), a short-sleeved waistcoat traditionally worn by men and a long outer robe or tight jacket either sleeveless or short sleeved with a tight bodice traditionally worn by women in the Ottoman controlled Levant.

), long front open, unlined, lightweight silk traditional cloak with quarter or no sleeves fastened at the waist often worn by men and women in the Levant, Fertile Crescent, and Najd regions.

strictly.  

This is because Kurdish women from northern Iraq often traditionally wore a long coat or jacket known as kurtak

Kurtak: (Persian: Kurtah – A long loose collarless tunic or shirt of Central Asian origin), a long narrow, front open coat with narrow sleeves or sometimes sleeveless worn by both Kurdish men and women. It is a component of a traditional Kurdish costume.

. Although the two garments are not synonymous with one another, it could be a possibility that this kind of front open jacket was perhaps worn in the northern Iraqi regions as a fusion of local Kurdish and neighbouring Iranian and Turkish–Ottoman – influences.  

Iraq, located south of Türkiye, was a significant Arab territory under the rule of the Ottoman Empire for approximately four centuries. In the northern province of Mosul, which was then under Ottoman rule, the prevalent modes of dress were heavily influenced by the fashion trends originating in Istanbul. 

By the 1930s, the elites of Baghdad, as well as other urban Christian and Jewish communities, had fully transitioned from Ottoman attire to European-style clothing.  

However, among the urban Muslim elites and middle classes, the shift towards Westernised clothing occurred more gradually, the vestiges of which are seen through pieces like these, which are essentially from a decade or two later. 

Links 

• Zieme, Peter. Silk and Wad in Old Turkish Terminology. - Turkdilleri.Org, www.turkdilleri.org/turkdilleri/sayilar/tda7/PZieme.pdf 
• Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016.  
• Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, and Norman A. Stillman. Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Brill, 2003.  
• Scarce, Jennifer. Womens Costume of the near and the Middle East. RoutledgeCurzon, 2003.  
• Rubens, Alfred. A History of Jewish Costume. 1981.  
• “Clothing And Fashion, Middle East" Encyclopedia of Western Colonialism since 1450. . Encyclopedia.Com. 8 Jan. 2024 .” Encyclopedia.Com, Encyclopedia.com, 29 Jan. 2024, www.encyclopedia.com/history/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/clothing-and-fashion-middle-east.  
• Baghdad, 10th Century the Dress of a Non-Muslim Woman, sayyidajahanara.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/baghdad-costume.pdf. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
• A Charuga

  Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

  from Northern Iraq Has Arrived at the TRC!, www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/blog/1378-the-charuga

  Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

  -from-northern-iraq-has-arrvied-at-the-trc. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
• “Clothing.” Kurdish Central, 18 Nov. 2021, kurdishcentral.org/clothing/.  
• Foundation, Encyclopaedia Iranica. “Clothing of the Kurdish Jews.” Encyclopaedia Iranica, iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xvii. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
• “Learn about Kurdish Dress.” The Kurdish Project, 2 Aug. 2016, thekurdishproject.org/history-and-culture/kurdish-culture/kurdish-dress/.