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Silk embellished cotton trousers – Libya

Back
Local NameSirwal
Object CategoryPants    
GenderFemale    
Date of objectc. mid 20th century
Place Of orginLibya
RegionLibya
Object RangeLibya, Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt et al
DimensionsLength: 102 cm Width: 60 cm
MaterialsSilk    Cotton    
TechniqueMachine Stitched    Hand Stitched    Hand Embroidered    
Color
MotifAbstract    Floral    
ProvenancePurchased, Independent Dealer, Texas 2021
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI2021.500956c LIBYA

Object Note   

Part of a set along with three more items (ZI2021.500956 LIBYA, ZI2021.500956a LIBYA, and ZI2021.500956b LIBYA) also in the collection. 


Object History 

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage.
from an independent dealer based in Texas in 2021. It is a part of an ensemble that was originally acquired by an elderly gentleman, also hailing from Texas. Originally the four-part ensembles were acquired during his residence in Cairo, Egypt, while he was employed in the oil industry between 1960 and 1980. It was later sold by his heir/s through the independent dealer who helped The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative acquire the piece. 

Dr. Reem and The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative first acquired the trousers, waistcoat, and jacket from the dealer, as the cloak itself was sold separately to someone in Europe. Upon Dr Reem’s request to complete the ensembles, the buyer of the cloak was later traced and agreed to sell it to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative. However, it was lost and remained untraceable for 3 months en route to the dealer in the USA. Upon collection, the dealer managed to mail it to Dr Reem only to be lost in transit once more. Luckily the item was found again and finally arrived at The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period.’s doorstep unharmed after several hiccups. Amidst all this Dr Reem and The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative were also furnished with a digital photograph of the gentleman donning the ensemble. 

 

Object Features  

This is a pair of black cotton trousers with drawstring fastening and embroidered embellishment. 

The field of the trousers is made of a similar cotton fabric of (twill

Twill: (English), one of the three primary textile weaves is defined by its prominent diagonal rib pattern. The fabrics woven in this method typically exhibit a pronounced, often darker front side, while the back is lighter.

) weave like the rest of the ensemble. It is trimmed along its seamlines with (coral Coral: (Greek: korallion, probably from Hebrew: goral – small pebbles), is a pale to medium shade of pink with orange or peach undertones, resembling the colour of certain species of coral.) pink silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. braided cords. It has a pair of straight legs tapering near the ankles which are embellished in (couching

Couching: (Latin: collocare – Place together), in needlework and embroidery couching is a technique in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn

) style embroidery using silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. braided cords. The embroidery pattern engulfs the cuffs and extends to mid-calf length along the inner seam line.  

Near the ankle, on both sides of the calf, it displays a triangular corner arrangement of floral-inspired pattern done by twisting and coiling the braids that end in a (palmette Palmette: (French: Palmette – Small palm, synonym Greco-Roman: Anthemion), a decorative element, motif, or ornament particularly pertaining to designs of architecture and decorative arts that has radiating petals resembling a palm leaf. It is believed to have originated in ancient Egypt and had subsequently reached far and wide. ) shaped leaf.  

The waistband of the trousers is a thick panel of silk fabric of (satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.) weave which contains the drawstring slot.  

 

 Links

  • “Libyan Men Wear Traditional Attire More Often than Women, Unlike Almost Everywhere around the World.” Nationalclothing.Org, https://nationalclothing.org/africa/86-libya/941-libyan-men-wear-traditional-attire-more-often-than-women,-unlike-almost-everywhere-around-the-world.html 
  • “Top 8 Libyan Culture, Customs and Etiquette.” Toplist.Info, https://toplist.info/top-list/libyan-culture-customs-and-etiquette-8006.htm 
  •  “Traditional Costume.” “Let’s Do It the Libyan Way.,” 20 Aug. 2013, https://fidelitygroup5republicoflibya.wordpress.com/traditional-costume/ 
  • “Libyan Folk Dress. How to Make Traditional Libyan Costumes Popular Again.” Nationalclothing.Org, http://nationalclothing.org/africa/86-libya/272-libyan-folk-dress-how-to-make-traditional-libyan-costumes-popular-again.html 
  • Altaeb, Malak. “The Jewish Libyan Wedding Traditions.” Libyan Wanderer, 22 Nov. 2020, http://libyanwanderer.com/the-jewish-libyan-wedding-traditions/ 
  • Yas Yās: (Arabic: name), name of prominent UAE tribe, rulers of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi., Betty. “Libyan Attire.” Dune Magazine, Dune Magazine, 27 Oct. 2022, www.dunemagazine.net/articles/libyan-attire 
  • “Libyan Clothing.” Libyan Heritage House, https://libyanheritagehouse.org/arts-culture/libyan-clothing 
  • “Libyan Traditional Clothing.” Medium, Medium, 16 Dec. 2019, medium.com/@mawaddahjacob/libyan-traditional-clothing-19e9e866482b 
  • “Tunisian Farmla – Ornate Vest with Sparkling Gold Embroidery.” Nationalclothing.Org,https://nationalclothing.org/africa/43-tunisia/562-tunisian-farmla-–-ornate-vest-with-sparkling-gold-embroidery.html 
  • Karim. “Libya: Traditional Clothing.” Home -, 4 Mar. 2023, www.planetjawal.com/libya-traditional-clothing/ 
  • Zaptia, Sami. “International Women in Libya Meet and Share Cultures.” LibyaHerald, 21 Dec. 2013, https://libyaherald.com/2013/12/international-women-in-libya-meet-and-share-cultures/ 
  • Rajkap. “Libya.” Textile Magazine, Textile News, Apparel News, Fashion News, 6 Oct. 2020, https://textilevaluechain.in/in-depth-analysis/articles/textile-articles/libya/ 
  • “Berber Dress.” Encyclopedia.Com, Encyclopedia.com, www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/berber-dress 
  • “Libyans.” Encyclopedia.Com, Encyclopedia.com, www.encyclopedia.com/humanities/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/libyans 
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