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| Local Name | - |
| Object Category | Accessory |
| Gender | Female |
| Date of object | c. 20th – 21st century |
| Place Of orgin | Iraq |
| Region | - |
| Object Range | Global |
| Dimensions | Length: 283 cm Width: 35 cm |
| Materials | Silk Other |
| Technique | Machine Stitched Machine Embroidered Painted |
| Color | |
| Motif | Floral Animal Geometric |
| Provenance | Donated, Saif Al-Obaidi, Iraq 2021 |
| Location | The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative |
| Status | In Storage |
| ZI number | ZI2021.500969.1a IRAQ |
Object Note
Part of a set along with two more items (ZI2021.500969.1 IRAQ, ZI2021.500969.1b IRAQ), also part of the collection.
Object History
This piece was donated to Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt. Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli
Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.
A contemporary dress with a cape, Babylon Festival, Iraq, 2021, donated to the initiative by Iraqi designer Saif Al-Obaidi, worn by Kuwaiti artist Shams at the opening of the Babylon Cultural Festival in 2021, inspired by Babylonian heritage I would say the significance of this dress is that it represents the work of contemporary Iraqi fashion designer worn by a Kuwaiti artist on Iraqi soil, during the opening of major yearly Iraqi cultural fest.
Babil International Festival is an annual festival held on the terraces of the ancient city of Babylon in the province of Babylon in central Iraq. Its activities were first launched in 1987. The festival activities have been suspended since 2003 following the Iraq war and the subsequent security deterioration, but the festival activities were resumed in 2021 after a break of 19 years. With the Kuwaiti Singer Shams, one of the star-studded Arab entertainers emigrating to the fest.
Object Features
This is a long cape or hooded cloak in beige silk of (satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.) weave featuring heavy embroidered and hand-painted embellishment.
While the top and bottom part of the cape features an elaborate design of floral and foliage arrangement in yellow silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. thread over a ground of yellow tulle with highlights of ivory sequins and yellow beads, the middle of the cape displays a hand-painted scene of the fabled ‘Hanging Gardens of Babylon’. A variety of embroidery techniques, primarily (blanket_stitch Blanket_stitch: A basic sewing stitch used to secure the edges of fabric or create decorative borders by looping the thread over the edges of blankets, quilts, and other fabrics and pulling it through, forming a series of evenly spaced stitches that resemble a chain. ), (satin_stitch Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.), and (chain_stitch Chain_stitch: An embroidery technique where a looped stitch is made in a continuous chain-like pattern. Each stitch is formed by looping the thread through the previous stitch, creating a linked chain. ) styles have been used to execute the pattern on the tulle, which is further cut in the shape of the embroidered pattern and (appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern.) on the beige satin Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. ground of the cape.
The painting has been executed, possibly with acrylic paint. It features a Mesopotamian architectural feature with scenic waterfalls, manicured gardens, date palm, and other trees and plants over a blue background that suggests the sky on top and a water body below. The architecture showcases rows of columns and prominent Mesopotamian statues such as the guardian winged bull or ‘Lamassu’. The painting is highlighted with faux feathers, diamante, and beads of various shapes, sizes, and colours, as well as turquoise Turquoise: (French: turquois – present day Türkiye; Synonyms: firuze, pheroza), is a naturally occurring opaque mineral mined in abundance in Khorasan province of Iran and has been used for making dye for centuries. The term is a derivative of the French word for the country Türkiye once called Turkey. .
The piece has been completely machine-stitched and has no lining.
Links
Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.
from Northern Iraq Has Arrived at the TRC!, www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/blog/1378-the-charugaCharuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.
-from-northern-iraq-has-arrvied-at-the-trc. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.