Metal embellished silk trousseau – Iraq

Object Note  

Part of a lot with four more items (ZI2018.500239.1 IRAQ, ZI2018.500239.2 IRAQ, ZI2018.500239.3a IRAQ, and ZI2018.500239.3b IRAQ) also in the collection.   

Object History 

This item was donated to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Collection by Khawla Khalid-Diab, a family friend of the founder, Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage., from Iraq.  

Born in Baghdad in 1939, Khawla was the oldest daughter of a senior judge and his socialite wife. She began her career as a pharmacist after coming of age during Iraq’s cultural and political heyday – the 1950s and 1960s.  

She emigrated to the United States of America in 1980 and settled in Boston, Massachusetts, where she continued pursuing her career in pharmaceuticals. Today, she and her husband are parents to three children and seven grandchildren.  

Khawla, with her passion for literature, cuisine, and fine arts, has remained an active member of the Arab community in the Boston area. 

Object Features  

This is possibly a set of bridal ceremonial trousseau comprising a kerchief bag (baqjeh

Baqjeh: (Possibly Turkoman: bokcheh

Bokcheh: (Possibly Turkoman: an envelope like bag for bread; Synonym: baqjeh), a square-shaped fabric, adorned and folded into an envelope style bag, commonly present in bridal trousseaus across the Mediterranean and Central Asian regions. Originating from Turkic tradition, it has been embraced in the Mediterranean and Levant Arab world.

– an envelope-like bag for bread; Synonym: bokche), a square-shaped fabric, adorned and folded into an envelope-style bag, commonly present in bridal trousseaus across the Mediterranean and Central Asian regions. Originating from Turkic tradition, it has been embraced in the Mediterranean and Levant Arab world.

), detachable sleeves, and a half-circle cushion cover. All the items are beige silk (crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

) panels adorned with (appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern.) and metal embellished designs.  

They feature appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. floral motifs in pink crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

silk outlined with (lamella

Lamella: (Latin: lāmella or lāmina – plate), a flat strip of metal yarn used as embroidery thread.

) type metal thread (kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

) and possibly silver in (overcast_stitch

Overcast_stitch: (Synonym: whip_stitch

Whip_stitch: (Synonym: Overcast_stitch), one of the basic stitching techniques in embroidery with simple stitches are worked on the smallest area of the base material as possible. It is often used for hemming and closing unfinished edges.

), one of the basic stitching techniques in embroidery with simple stitches are worked on the smallest area of the base material as possible. It is often used for hemming and closing unfinished edges.

) style embroidery. 

The large baqjeh

Baqjeh: (Possibly Turkoman: bokcheh

Bokcheh: (Possibly Turkoman: an envelope like bag for bread; Synonym: baqjeh), a square-shaped fabric, adorned and folded into an envelope style bag, commonly present in bridal trousseaus across the Mediterranean and Central Asian regions. Originating from Turkic tradition, it has been embraced in the Mediterranean and Levant Arab world.

– an envelope-like bag for bread; Synonym: bokche), a square-shaped fabric, adorned and folded into an envelope-style bag, commonly present in bridal trousseaus across the Mediterranean and Central Asian regions. Originating from Turkic tradition, it has been embraced in the Mediterranean and Levant Arab world.

displays a wide panel of floral repeat along a wavy central vine and a large flower at the corners, branching out on either side as its border with scalloped edges. The centre of the baqjeh

Baqjeh: (Possibly Turkoman: bokcheh

Bokcheh: (Possibly Turkoman: an envelope like bag for bread; Synonym: baqjeh), a square-shaped fabric, adorned and folded into an envelope style bag, commonly present in bridal trousseaus across the Mediterranean and Central Asian regions. Originating from Turkic tradition, it has been embraced in the Mediterranean and Levant Arab world.

– an envelope-like bag for bread; Synonym: bokche), a square-shaped fabric, adorned and folded into an envelope-style bag, commonly present in bridal trousseaus across the Mediterranean and Central Asian regions. Originating from Turkic tradition, it has been embraced in the Mediterranean and Levant Arab world.

features a large rhomboidal shape in lamella

Lamella: (Latin: lāmella or lāmina – plate), a flat strip of metal yarn used as embroidery thread.

kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

.  

This encloses a floral bouquet on either side, mirroring each other and meeting in the centre. Each bouquet has a central large rose with flanking branches displaying foliage and smaller floral motifs along their lengths. 

Enclosed within the bouquet is a large star-like form with scalloped edges. It has an ivory crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

silk lining with three metal tab buttons on the top.  

The sleeves feature two thin lamella

Lamella: (Latin: lāmella or lāmina – plate), a flat strip of metal yarn used as embroidery thread.

kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

lines bordering each end. A repeat of floral and foliage arrangement along a wavy central vine is appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. with pink crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

and outlined with lamella

Lamella: (Latin: lāmella or lāmina – plate), a flat strip of metal yarn used as embroidery thread.

kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

above each of the thin lamella

Lamella: (Latin: lāmella or lāmina – plate), a flat strip of metal yarn used as embroidery thread.

borders.  

Each of the floral panels is further framed with a scalloped border also appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. and outlined. While both sleeves have several stains, one of them has been damaged and frayed along the stained parts.  

The half-circle cushion cover is similarly embellished as the rest of the set with pink crepe

Crepe: (Latin: crispus; Old French: crespe – curled or frizzed), is a lightweight, crinkled fabric with a pebbled texture woven from a hand spun untreated or ‘in the gum’ silk yarn.

appliqué and lamella

Lamella: (Latin: lāmella or lāmina – plate), a flat strip of metal yarn used as embroidery thread.

kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

outlines. The centre of it features an appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. and outlined pattern of a large flower at the zenith with two branches flanking it.  

Each branch displays floral and foliage patterns along its way on both sides. While the flatter side of the pattern is framed with an appliqued Appliqued: (French: appliquer – Apply), ornamental needlework where small pieces of decorative fabric are sewn on to a larger piece to form a pattern. and outlined scallop, the round side features a single line of lamella

Lamella: (Latin: lāmella or lāmina – plate), a flat strip of metal yarn used as embroidery thread.

kalabdun

Kalabdūn: (Hindustani: kalabattu / kalabattun gold or silver threads; or Dravidian and Sanskrit: pattu or patt – a kind of fine fibre or silk; or Sanskrit: kalavatu – fine material), the gold wire used in embroidery and other embellishments on textiles and fabrics.

. The cover is finished with a gathered edging of the fabric that gives it a fringe.  

Links 

• Zieme, Peter. Silk and Wad in Old Turkish Terminology. - Turkdilleri.Org, www.turkdilleri.org/turkdilleri/sayilar/tda7/PZieme.pdf 
• Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016.  
• Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, and Norman A. Stillman. Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Brill, 2003.  
• Scarce, Jennifer. Womens Costume of the near and the Middle East. RoutledgeCurzon, 2003.  
• Rubens, Alfred. A History of Jewish Costume. 1981.  
• “Clothing And Fashion, Middle East" Encyclopedia of Western Colonialism since 1450. . Encyclopedia.Com. 8 Jan. 2024 .” Encyclopedia.Com, Encyclopedia.com, 29 Jan. 2024, www.encyclopedia.com/history/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/clothing-and-fashion-middle-east.  
• Baghdad, 10th Century the Dress of a Non-Muslim Woman, sayyidajahanara.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/baghdad-costume.pdf. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
• A Charuga

  Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

  from Northern Iraq Has Arrived at the TRC!, www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/blog/1378-the-charuga

  Charuga: (Possibly Kurdish), a mantle-like embroidered women’s traditional garment from the Qaraqosh region in northern Iraq, traditionally fastened at the shoulder. Historically worn by field workers, it helped conceal dust and dirt, making them less visible during labour, it is a festive garment worn sparingly during festivals and other special occasions.  

  -from-northern-iraq-has-arrvied-at-the-trc. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
• “Clothing.” Kurdish Central, 18 Nov. 2021, kurdishcentral.org/clothing/.  
• Foundation, Encyclopaedia Iranica. “Clothing of the Kurdish Jews.” Encyclopaedia Iranica, iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xvii. Accessed 29 Jan. 2024.  
• “Learn about Kurdish Dress.” The Kurdish Project, 2 Aug. 2016, thekurdishproject.org/history-and-culture/kurdish-culture/kurdish-dress/.