Object Note
Part of a lot along with two other items (ZI2022.501001.1 UK) and (ZI2022.501001.3 UK) also in the collection. Additionally, this item was accompanied by a handwritten note on a postcard from the Far East dated c. 1870s.
Object History
This article was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli from Kerry Taylor Auctions, London in 2022 to add to and enhance The Zay Initiative collection.
It was originally designed by the famous British couture house Thea Porter Couture founded by prominent celebrity couturier Thea Porter.
Dorothea ‘Thea’ Noelle Naomi Porter – née Seale – d of Anglo-French parentage was born in Jerusalem and was raised between Jerusalem, Damascus, and later London. Both her parents were Christian–Presbyterian – missionaries in the Middle East. Her father was the celebrated Arabist and theologian Morris S Seale who authored the book ‘Qur’an and Bible: Studies in Interpretation and Dialogue’ amongst other similar works.
While working at the British embassy in Beirut, Lebanon she married Robert ‘Bob’ Porter in 1953. She eventually moved back to London in 1964 and set up her furnishing store ‘Thea Porter Decorations’ at Greek Street, Soho. She specialized in selling large plush cushions, along with French, Italian, and Turkish fabrics for upholstery. She used to import (kaftan) / (qaftan) from the Near and Middle East for furnishing when suddenly during the 1970s ‘caftans’ became a popular mainstream fashion, especially along the ‘Hippie Trail’. This led her to create her own designs from the leftover furnishing fabrics and old braids and trimmings. Ultimately Thea Porter Decorations transformed into Thea Porter Couture leading her to expand to New York as well as Paris. She was known for sourcing her opulent beads and sequin embroidered fabrics from India which were then designed into garments – designs that were influenced by her deep-rooted connections to the Middle East – for celebrities across the West from HRH the Late Princess Margaret, Pamela Lady Harlech, and Pete Townsend to Elizabeth Taylor, Mick and Bianca Jagger, Lauren Becall, Baby Jane Holzer, Edna O’Brien and many more.
This item was spotted by Dr Reem along with a few other items by the same designer at Kerry Taylor Auctions, London in the summer of 2022. She managed to acquire a total of three items to add to The Zay Initiative collection, because of their close resemblance to traditional Arab tunic robes.
Object Features
This is a yellow silk (damask) robe (thawb) popularly termed as ‘caftan’ in the West, with an open V neckline, a waistband, sleeve tassels, and a gathered back yoke.
The piece is made of a bright turmeric-yellow silk damask fabric featuring floral patterns. The piece has no embellishments except the metal thread braided trimming along its seamlines, neckline, and side hems. Each side of the dress features eight long hanging tassels possibly made of gold thread reminiscent of an (‘amayil). The waistline in the front has an integrated waistband in the same fabric that could be tied at the back to tighten the dress as required by the wearer.
The overall shape of the garment follows the style that visually resembles an Arabic tunic robe(thawb) commonly found in different areas of the Arabian Gulf and Iraq as well as parts of Iran where it is known as a (juma/jama). (ZI2018.500127 ASIA).
Moreover, the braided trimmings along the seamlines resemble the metal thread braided trimmings common to Ottoman dresses as well as traditional Arab wears are often known as (gitan) while the hanging tassels resemble the ‘amayil often featured in Arab men’s outer cloaks (’aba).
Although the piece lacks the tag of the couture house, it has been acquired from Margaret B Larson collection who had fond memories of this garment recorded in the closing paragraph of ‘Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic’ by Laura Mclaws Helms & Venetia Porter: ‘Throughout her years in London, Thea had become known for her generosity. Those who knew Porter spoke fondly of her… Her friend B. Larsson recalled how Thea gave her an orange abaya to match the walls of her newly painted sitting room.’
Links
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- Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, and Norman A. Stillman. Arab Dress a Short History from the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Brill, 2000.
- Weber, Heike. ANAT and Her Hero BAAL The Embroidery Pattern Language of the Levant. Syrian Handcrafts Limited.
- Kalter, Johannes. Arts and Crafts of Syria. Thames and Hudson, 1993.
- Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia – the Fabric of Life. Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2017.
- Barr, Ann. “Thea Porter When Middle Eastern Fashion Came to London.” The Guardian, 26 July 2000, https://www.theguardian.com/news/2000/jul/26/guardianobituaries
- Kellaway, Kate. “Thea Porter’s Scrapbook Edited by Venetia Porter Review – Queen of Bohemian Chic.” The Guardian, 15 Sept. 2019, https://www.theguardian.com/books/2019/sep/15/thea-porter-scrapbook-edited-by-venetia-porter-review
- Pithers, Ellie. “Inside the Thea Porter Exhibition.” The Telegraph UK, http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/columns/ellie-pithers/TMG11371756/Inside-the-Thea-Porter-exhibition.html#:~:text=It%27s%20the%20ultimate%20clichéd%20therapy,Seventies%20fashion%20designer%20Thea%20Porter
- Wood, Grace. “UNRAVELLING… ‘Thea Porter: 70‘s Bohemian Chic’ exhibition.” ADDRESS: Journal for Fashion Criticism, 23 Feb. 2019, http://www.addresspublications.com/thea-porter/
- Trebly, Guy. “Thea Porter, 72; Dressed the Elite of the 60’s in Hippie Chic.” New York Times, 27 June 2000, https://www.nytimes.com/2000/07/27/arts/thea-porter-72-dressed-the-elite-of-the-60-s-in-hippie-chic.html
- “Thea Porter’s Scrapbook Edited by Venetia Porter Review – Queen of Bohemian Chic.” 2LUXURY2.COM, 3 Oct. 2019, https://www.2luxury2.com/thea-porters-scrapbook-edited-venetia-porter-review-queen-bohemian-chic/
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