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Silk woven Turkmen skull cap – Central Asia

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Local NameTahiyah, taqiyah
Object CategoryHeadwear    
GenderFemale    
Place Of orginAsia
RegionCentral Asia
Object RangeUzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Azerbaijan, Afghanistan, Iran, India, Pakistan, China, Russia, Turkey
DimensionsLength: 8 cm Width: 24 cm
MaterialsSilk    
TechniqueHand Stitched    Woven    
Color
MotifGeometric    Abstract    
ProvenancePurchased, Augusta Auction Company, Vermont 2023
LocationThe Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative
StatusIn Storage
ZI numberZI2023.501012.2 ASIA

Object Note

Part of a set constituting of six more items – two pieces of (ZI2023.501012.1 TUNISIA, ZI2023.501012.3 ASIA, ZI2023.501012.4 ASIA, ZI2023.501012.5 OMAN, and ZI2023.501012.6 ASIA).


Object History

This colourful women’s skull cap was purchased along with six more items by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage.
in 2023, from Augusta Auction Company, based out of Vermont, USA, to enhance The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative collection.


Object Features 

This is a typical Turkmen woman’s skull cap or (tahiyah)/(taqiyah

Ṭāqīyah : (Arabic: cap; Synonym: Ṭāgīyah, Ṭā’īyah), a small round skull cap worn by the Arab communities of the Middle Eastern and North African countries. It is worn by both men and women and has several regional versions and is also popular amongst the Muslim communities of Central, South, and Southeast Asia.

) with a flat top, and has been attributed to the Turkmen tribes of Afghanistan by the previous collector.

The previous collector had also attributed this piece as a men’s accessory, however, Turkmen men’s tahiya Tāḥīyah: (Arabic: ṭāqīyah – small round skull cap), a traditional skull cap often colourfully embroidered and embellished. A part of Turkmen national costume it is worn by both men and women with slight differences in design and construction to distinguish between the genders.  typically come with a conical crown, while flat crown tahiyah like this are worn by women.

It is hand-woven in an array of colourful silk threads – orange, purple, black, yellow, and white – depicting abstract and geometric designs. It is very similar in style to the silk skull caps typical of Bokhara, Uzbekistan, which are far removed from the typical black skull caps Uzbek men.

The base of the cap is possibly a thick layer of felt which has been thickly embroidered with silk threads. The piece is completely hand-stitched and unlined.


Links

  • Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001. 
  • Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017. 
  • Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006. 
  • Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. : Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013. 
  • Pennell, Suzanne. The Art of Gold Embroidery from Uzbekistan. Brisbane: Story Bridge Press, 2015. 
  • https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186 
  • https://books.google.ae/books?id=L-ViFsLAQb0C&printsec=frontcover&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false 
  • https://nationalclothing.org/asia/112-turkmenistan/605-traditional-women%E2%80%99s-tahya-headwear-in-turkmenistan.html 
  • https://trc-leiden.nl/collection/?trc=TRC%202000.0120 
  • http://karakalpak.com/sawkele02.html 
  • https://central-asia.guide/turkmenistan/turkmen-culture/turkmen-clothing/ 
  • https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/afghan-dress/item/80-turkmen-dress 

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