Object History
Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli purchased this overgarment (thawb) from a Saudi Arabian fabric dealer while browsing on Instagram. The dealer had specifically ordered this type of fabric, in hopes of preserving the production of old patterns.
Object Features
(Sufrat_S’ud) is the main emphasis of this overgarment (thawb), also known as (kurtat_S’ud) when applied on a waist-cinched dress, popular in Najd, Saudi Arabia. The emerald, green satin silk fabric is machine embroidered into four large medallions, using gold metallic thread (Zari), known as (kantil) locally. The article exemplifies national pride.
The overall simple shape is derived by plainly folding the length of the fabric and cutting an opening at the centre of the fold to allow the head to pass through, creating the neckline. The two outer edges of the folded fabric are then stitched from the hip line down the lower hemline, on both sides, creating two large openings for the hands to pass through forming the quintessential wide sleeves. The four embroidered medallions are placed proportionately two in the front and two in the back.
Green symbolises the heavens in Islam, a reflection of nature and life in general. Traditionally, women of the Arab gulf region elect to wear green for their ceremonial henna night (laylat_al_hinnah) or to mark the middle of (Sha’ban) and the first night of (Ramadan).
More Informations
Alghalib, L. F., Alireza, H., & Wilding, R. (Eds.). Traditional costumes of Saudi Arabia: The Mansoojat Foundation Collection. ACC Art Books, 2021.
kantil: youtube video link
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