Year of Tolerance overgarment – UAE

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Object Note

This overgarment (thawb) is part of a two-piece ensemble, worn with a matching tunic dress (kandurah) ZI2019.500708a UAE.

Object History 

The ensemble was gifted to the Zay Collection by Lubna Lootah, UAE designer and creator of the ‘Only One by Lubna Lootah’ label.

Object Features 

Post millennium stylised version (thawb_wa_kandurah) of a two-part ensemble (thawb) and (kandurah), deliberately modified by the designer to present her contemporary take inspired by the traditional style. Here the traditional neckline shape (halj), generally reserved for the overgarment (thawb), is omitted, and instead placed on the inner tunic (kandurah).

Two nude coloured tulle (tur) fabrics are used – an overall plain version with a second nude dusted in shimmering gold tinsel s appliquéd onto the central panel. The lower portion of the dress is then machine embroidered in fuchsia silk thread (brisam) in large overlapping of Prosopis leaves that are representing ‘The year of Tolerance – 2019’ official logo, leaving the top section plain and allowing the embellishment of the inner tunic dress to be opaquely visible.