Object History This simple red Turkmen women’s tunic dress or (
koynek
Koynek: A traditional long, loose-fitting tunic or dress worn by Turkmen women in Central Asia typically made of silk or cotton, adorned with intricate embroidery, and often characterized by vibrant colours and geometric patterns. It is cultural symbol of significant importance reflecting the artistic heritage of Turkmen people. ) was purchased from a New York estate sale through a dealer, by
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 2019. It was added The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative to enhance its collection.
Object Features This burgundy red linen tunic dress is a typical costume of a Turkmen woman and is identified as a
koynek
Koynek: A traditional long, loose-fitting tunic or dress worn by Turkmen women in Central Asia typically made of silk or cotton, adorned with intricate embroidery, and often characterized by vibrant colours and geometric patterns. It is cultural symbol of significant importance reflecting the artistic heritage of Turkmen people. . Worn by Turkmen women all over Central Asia it is part of a national costume for women from Turkmenistan.
This piece is embellished with rows of vertical lines running parallel to one another down the field of the tunic as well as across the shoulders and the sleeves woven in yellow, green, brown, and thin strips of ivory.
It has a round neck with a front slit. The neckline is embroidered with yellow, ivory, and black floral designs in stiff geometric forms. Three fourth of the
koynek
Koynek: A traditional long, loose-fitting tunic or dress worn by Turkmen women in Central Asia typically made of silk or cotton, adorned with intricate embroidery, and often characterized by vibrant colours and geometric patterns. It is cultural symbol of significant importance reflecting the artistic heritage of Turkmen people. from the top has a printed cotton lining in green and red floral motifs over a dark blue base.
Typical Turkmen festive koyneks are usually in shades of red and pink as it is considered a sacred colour in Turkmen culture and is believed to ward off evil.
Links
- Valérie Bérinstain, Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis. Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama: The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection. California: Skira, 2001.
- Suleman, Fahmida. Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia (British Museum) The Fabric of Life. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017.
- Embroidery from Afghanistan Fabric, folios. Sheila Paine. Washington: University of Washington Press, 2006.
- Sukhareva, Olʹga Aleksandrovna. Suzani
Suzani: (Farsi: suzandozi : needlework, from Farsi: suzan: needle, dozi: embellishment), type of embroidered and decorative Central Asian tribal textile art usually on a cotton fabric, embroidered in both silk or cotton thread with primarily chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches as well as couching technique. : Central Asian Decorative Embroidery. Samarkand: SMI Asia, 2013.
- https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing-COM_7759?lang=fr#COM-10186
- https://books.google.ae/books?id=L-ViFsLAQb0C&printsec=frontcover&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false
- https://nationalclothing.org/asia/112-turkmenistan/605-traditional-women%E2%80%99s-tahya-headwear-in-turkmenistan.html
- https://trc-leiden.nl/collection/?trc=TRC%202000.0120
- http://karakalpak.com/sawkele02.html
