Object NotePurchased together with (ZI2018.500121 ASIA, ZI2018.500121a ASIA, ZI2018.500121b ASIA, ZI2018.500737 ASIA, ZI2018.500737a ASIA, ZI2018.500737b ASIA).
Object History This object was sourced with the help of fashion designer Homeira Ebadi from the Evaz county of Fars Province in southwest Iran. It was purchased by her on behalf of
Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 2018 to be added to The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. initiative collection.
Apart from being a fashion designer Ms. Ebadi is a dedicated volunteer associated with The
Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative and its cause, often lending a hand in sourcing unique pieces like this.
Our heartfelt gratitude to Ms. Ebadi for her efforts for her contribution.
Object Features This is a metal foil embroidered (
badlah
Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other.) skull cap (
kolaqča
) possibly of Qashqai women. Although referred to as a karabaghi or carabokhi – spelling debatable – by the previous owner, current research failed to confirm any headgear of a similar name from the region.
Constructed of two silk brocades – one in jade green and the fuchsia pink – and several strips of
badlah
Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other. – possibly silver – creating varied geometric designs and shapes on black, purple, and orange base.
The underside of the cap is lined with a plain pale pink cotton fabric with running stitches securing the outer and inner fabric together.
It is worth noting that the name
badlah
Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other. for this type of embroidery is although the same across Iran and South Asia it is also sometimes commonly referred to as (
khus_dozi
Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ) in south Iran. It is believed that the term
badlah
Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other. is derived from the phrase ‘badal kinari’ – cloud lining – popular during the Mughal period in India as net or fine
gauze
Gauze: (English), very fine wire mesh transparent fabric of silk, linen, or cotton. silk were often embroidered with metal pieces giving them the look of clouds with bright lines around them.
However, upon crossing the Gulf and reaching the Arabian Peninsula the nomenclature of the embroidery changes to (
talli
Tallī: (Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asīūṭī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli
Tulle_bi_tallī: (English: tulle: netting, Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish
Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi
Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi
Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with flat strips of metal alloys coated with silver or gold squeezed shut around some threads of fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish
Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi
Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi
Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ), metal alloys coated with silver or gold, to create either flat straws or coil threads applied on clothing in varying patterns. /
tulle_bi_talli
Tulle_bi_tallī: (English: tulle: netting, Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish
Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi
Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi
Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with flat strips of metal alloys coated with silver or gold squeezed shut around some threads of fabric creating intricate shapes and designs.), while the cuffs of women’s trousers which are detachable and could be changed are called
badlah
Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other..
The acquisition notes for this particular piece claimed that it was part of a Qashqai bridal kit and was acquired along with six other pieces of Qashqai sets (ZI2018.500121 Asia) series and (ZI2018.500737 Asia) series. However, it could not be said so with absolute certainty.
The (ZI2018.500121 Asia) series has a far greater possibility of being a Lori ethnic wear rather than a Qashqai.
Although Qashqai dresses have been over the years influenced by the population of southwest of Iran, and traditionally the women of the tribe usually stitched their own garments with whatever fabric was available in the market, they did have a few pieces that were not adopted from the Lori women for example the turban (
tara
Tarā: A kind of turban traditionally worn by Lori speaking ethnic women over their scarves. ) of the northern Lori tribes or the ceremonial silk
brocade
Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts. shirts (
jama_atlas
Jama_atlas: (Hindustani: jama
Jāma: (Persian, Synonym: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north.), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Juma_atlas
Juma_atlas: (Hindustani: Juma
Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Jama_atlas), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. ), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. ) worn by the Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the Lori tribes.
More detailsThe Qashqai tribe, a diverse confederacy in the 19th-20th centuries, were nomadic pastoralists migrating between the southern Zagros mountains. They hand-crafted unique clothing at home using market goods and popular trends. Men wore trousers, shirts, cloaks, and distinctive hats, while women donned colourful skirts, tunics, jackets, and scarves. Following political changes, dress customs evolved, adapting to new codes and societal shifts.
Qashqai women in the 19th and early 20th centuries wore vibrant, contrasting clothing, including gathered skirts, slit tunics, short jackets, and diaphanous scarves. They distinguished themselves through silk headbands and fabric choices, never covering their faces.
After the formation of the Islamic Republic, women adopted more conservative attire, but some resisted. By 1989, modified urban dress became prevalent, while men generally followed new urban styles but retained the distinctive Qashqai hat.
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