Object History
Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli was initially contacted on Instagram by Mariam Khalfan Mohammed Khalifah al Maydi al Badwawi, who offered to volunteer and help source old artefacts from the northern Emirates for the Zay Collection. Mariam connects easily with people, patiently explains the Zay Initiative’s role, and convinces others to help the cause. This overgarment (thawb dam‘at_farid khwar tulah) is one of her finds.
Object Features
This piece was possibly imported from India as a ready-made, wafer thin, teardrop cut-out (dam‘at_farid) silk with decorative neckline (tarchibah or jal‘ah) composed of silver and gilded coil machine-embroidery (khwar tulah) and coloured red and blue silk thread (brisam), delineating a primitive, simple collar (halj) and central axis (bidhah), both hand-tailored at the seams.
The cleavage opening of the neckline (bidhah) is about 12 cm wide and 11 cm long just enough to allow the silver embroidery on the tunic underneath to be visible. The outer square shape of the neckline starts and ends in line with the shoulder seam.
Before the 1980s, it was common to employ contrasting colours and techniques within the components of the traditional dress. Women used to wear a (thawb) that contrasted with the tunic dress (kandurah), as in this example.
This represents a physical example of the traditional Arabic saying (zinah_wa_khazinah), meaning “beauty and wealth in one”. The silver was employed to demonstrate style and reflect social status but could also be melted down and sold in times of need.
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