Object Note
This overgarment (thawb kurar) was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli, from Mrs. Fawziyah in 2018, together with another overgarment (thawb kurar) (ZI2018.500381.1 BAHRAIN).
Object History
During Sharjah Heritage Days in 2018, generally held at Heritage Square in the heart of the Emirate of Sharjah; Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli, met by chance with Fawziyah a crafter participating among Bahrain’s delegation to showcase traditional crafts.
The two ladies struck up a friendship and in time Fawziyah sold two of her personal dresses to Dr. Reem.
These two garments date back to the 1990s, she had personally sewn and decorated them with (kurar) , luckily holding on to them for many years until they were purchased by Dr. Reem and added to The Zay Collection.
Object Features
This sheer, dark blue, cotton voile overgarment (thawb kurar) is printed in repeated off-white floral motif, outlined in two shades of pink and greenish brown.
The machine-stitched, Bahraini overgarment, is sewn in the traditional T-shape with wide sleeve panels and gussets (bat), of the same fabric, connecting each of the upper sleeve panels at the lower end.
It is decorated, simply, with a 2 cm wide band of traditional kurar work in gilded thread (zari), accentuating the neckline creating a central axis extending to the hemline in front, and framing the outer sleeve openings.
Kurar work requires a group of skilled handcrafters, two or three women, called (dawakhil), led by a group leader called the (qattabah). The women sit opposite the leader, and each takes a turn organising the thread on her fingers and transferring it from one hand to another, for the thread to interlace. The result is a flat woven ribbon, that is then hand stitched directly onto the fabric of the overgarment (thawb), accentuating the sleeves, the neckline, and the centre axis on the front of the gown.
Such a garment is customarily worn over underpants (sirwal) and a tunic dress (dara’ah) and is reserved for special events and social gatherings.
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