Silver embroidered overgarment - Bahrain

Object Note  

Part of a lot along with 3 more items (ZI2018.500224.2 BAHRAIN, ZI2018.500224.3 BAHRAIN, and ZI2018.500224.4 BAHRAIN), also in the collection. 

Object History  

This piece was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq

Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli

Tūlle_bi_tallī: (French: Tulle – a city in France where fine material for veil was first made; Turkish: tel – wire; Synonym: tariq; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the North African Arab region specifically in Egypt.

; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.

el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. during a visit to Bahrain in 2018. On this occasion, Dr Reem sought out the shop of Muhammad Saleh Ahmad Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. , formerly located at the old market of Manama. Upon discovering that the shop had relocated to a new mall, she visited the new store where she met the manager, known by his initials, P.K.  

Dr Reem spent the day interviewing Mr P K who had arrived in Bahrain from India in the 1980s as a teenager. Upon arrival, PK joined Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. ’s business, initially working on the shop floor. Over time, he advanced to the role of a manager at the new store.  

During their conversation, Dr Reem explained that the purpose of her visit was to acquire historical pieces made by the Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  family. Mr P.K. informed her that all he had were two discarded boxes of items and generously offered some of the pieces as gifts. Amongst these items was this particular piece that was ultimately purchased to be added to the collection of The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, further enhancing its cultural and historical value. 

Object Features  

This is a traditional Gulf Arab style girl’s tunic robe (thawb Thawb: (Arabic: thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thobe Thobe: (Arabic: thawb, Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. or tobe Tobe: (Arabic:  thawb,  Pl. Athwāb/thībān), can be pronounced thawb or thobe based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women. based on locale. The standard Arabic word for ‘fabric’ or ‘garment’. It can also refer to a qamīs-like tunic worn by men and women in the Arabian Peninsula, Iraq, the southern and south-western ports and islands of Iran, and some countries in East and West Africa. More specifically, it can refer to the square-shaped Bedouin overgarment worn by women in the Arabian Gulf region.  ), often locally referred to as the (Thawb_nashil_zari_fadhah

Thawb_nashil_zarī_faḍah: (Persian: zar – gold; to Hindustani – zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  – metal thread often precious or semi-precious for decorative purpose), a type of thawb_nashil but not synonymous to it. Unlike the nashil it is characterised by gilded metal thread embroidery along the front centre.

). It features dense and elaborate embroidered patterns, a round neckline with a slitted opening in the middle and wide sleeves.  

Constructed of black silk chiffon, the nashl features metal thread (zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. ), possibly gilded silver, embellished with floral and foliage patterns executed primarily in (chain_stitch Chain_stitch: An embroidery technique where a looped stitch is made in a continuous chain-like pattern. Each stitch is formed by looping the thread through the previous stitch, creating a linked chain.  ) style embroidery. The front central panel features the most elaborate embroidered embellishment, while the rest of the nashil has floral and foliage repeats. 

The design elements are primarily concentrated along the neckline and the front opening in a U-shaped pattern. It can be roughly divided into three segments. The central band with a chain_stitch Chain_stitch: An embroidery technique where a looped stitch is made in a continuous chain-like pattern. Each stitch is formed by looping the thread through the previous stitch, creating a linked chain.   filled ground flanked by two bands of foliage repeats along a thin, wavy central vine, separated by a narrow, curvy zigzag band. 

A wider band of similar foliage repeats adorn the side of the nashil from the shoulder to the front fall hemline. The band also branches as a connector at the waistline to the sleeves, giving way to the underarm gusset (bitan

Biṭan: (Arabic: underarms, plural of ibt

Ibṭ: (Arabic: underarm, singular of ibt), a triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric or gusset inserted into the seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Used for underarms on tunic dresses, side sleeve panels.

), triangular or rhomboidal pieces of fabric or gussets inserted into the seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Used for underarms on tunic dresses, side sleeve panels.

) at the centre of which sits a floral and foliage arrangement with a central flower surrounded by several leaves. 

While the seamlines on the piece are adorned with a narrow band of scroll with sequined highlights between two thin zigzag lines, the field of the nashil is filled with sporadic repeats of three different floral patterns. The front central panel is adorned with a combination of a star-shaped floral pattern and a floral bouquet with flanking foliage, and along the rest of the field, both front and back are adorned with repeats of a teardrop-shaped foliage over a scroll-shaped base.  

Although the piece lacks any apparent lining, the embellished portions have a thin black cotton (gauze Gauze: (English), very fine wire mesh transparent fabric of silk, linen, or cotton.) fabric attached to the underside of the nashil to provide extra support to the embroidery and prevent the top fabric from fraying. Primarily a machine embroidered and machine stitched piece, the nashil has a pair of (frog_fastener

Frog_fastener: (Synonym: Chinese frog closure, frog closure), is a decorative and functional type of button used to fasten clothing. Said to have originated between c. 5th to 7th century China these buttons consist of a cord or braid looped through a decorative knot. 

) style buttons with two ball-shaped buttons in golden zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  on one edge of the front opening and their corresponding loops on the opposite. 

The embellishment technique that traditionally used precious metals such as silver and sometimes gold could be deemed as the physical manifestation of the traditional Arabic idiom ‘zinah wa khazinah’, which roughly translates to ‘beauty and wealth together’, since the decorative element both enhances the beauty of the garment and stands testament to the status of the wearer. 

More Info 

The thawb_nashil

Thawb_nashil: (Arabic: mnshal – fabric used for ceremonial litter headed for Mecca pilgrimage), a loose, often square-shaped tunic with wide sleeves, characterised by heavy embroidered embellishment along the front centre, popular amongst the women of the Gulf Arab countries.

is a traditional garment widely worn across the Gulf Arab region. Its production in Bahrain dates back to the 1940s, though before this, it was imported from India upon demand. Materials such as chiffon silk and gilded metal, particularly silver thread, were initially sourced from Gujarat, India, where they were then sewn and embroidered locally in Bahrain. Finer versions of the fabric were later imported from Europe, primarily from Germany and France. 

The name of the garment is thought to originate either from the term mnshal, which refers to the vibrant and intricately decorated fabrics used to cover ceremonial litter carried by camels during Hajj pilgrimages to Mecca, or the decorative fabrics used to drape camel compartments for transporting women. Alternatively, some scholars suggest that the name derives from alnashil, meaning "pickpocket," alluding to the idea that these beautiful garments "steal" one’s heart. 

Historically, the thawb_nashil

Thawb_nashil: (Arabic: mnshal – fabric used for ceremonial litter headed for Mecca pilgrimage), a loose, often square-shaped tunic with wide sleeves, characterised by heavy embroidered embellishment along the front centre, popular amongst the women of the Gulf Arab countries.

has been a popular bridal attire, particularly in Bahrain and other Gulf Arab countries. It is often mistaken for the (thawb_hashmi

Thawb_hāshmī: (Arabic: a direct reference to the Banu Hashim tribe of Saudi Arabia). It is a traditional Iraqi women's overgarment (thawb), closely resembling the (nashil) and Najdi (thawb).

), although the latter is distinguished by its much wider sleeves. Traditionally sewn in a T-shape, the fabric for the nashil is cut into longitudinal and cross sections. The neck opening, which may be circular, triangular, or square, can feature a front slit extending to the middle or end of the chest, often adorned with zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  ball buttons and loops for fastening. 

The embroidery is completed before the neckline is cut, providing structural support during the embroidery process and signifying that the garment is new. This practice is significant, as it was customary in the region to reuse embroidered panels from older dresses. After sewing and embroidering with zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. , artisans would hammer and burnish the embroidery to achieve a polished, smooth, and shiny finish. 

Over time, the manufacturing process of the thawb_nashil

Thawb_nashil: (Arabic: mnshal – fabric used for ceremonial litter headed for Mecca pilgrimage), a loose, often square-shaped tunic with wide sleeves, characterised by heavy embroidered embellishment along the front centre, popular amongst the women of the Gulf Arab countries.

evolved and became part of a larger industrial practice. Today, thawb_nashil

Thawb_nashil: (Arabic: mnshal – fabric used for ceremonial litter headed for Mecca pilgrimage), a loose, often square-shaped tunic with wide sleeves, characterised by heavy embroidered embellishment along the front centre, popular amongst the women of the Gulf Arab countries.

are typically machine-stitched and machine-embroidered using a variety of fabrics, both natural and synthetic. Additionally, gilded silver zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  has largely been replaced by more affordable materials such as Lurex to make the garment accessible to a wider client base. 

One of the most renowned thawb_nashil

Thawb_nashil: (Arabic: mnshal – fabric used for ceremonial litter headed for Mecca pilgrimage), a loose, often square-shaped tunic with wide sleeves, characterised by heavy embroidered embellishment along the front centre, popular amongst the women of the Gulf Arab countries.

makers in Bahrain today, following the tradition of his forefathers, Saleh Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  and Mohammed Abdul Qadir Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. , is Muhammad Saleh Ahmad Zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. , who continues to preserve this craft. 

Links

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