Metal embellished veil/scarf – Evaz

Object Note
Part of an ensemble consisting of two more parts (ZI2018 500.121 ASIA and ZI2018 500121b ASIA).
 
Object History 
This object was sourced with the help of fashion designer Homeira Ebadi from an elderly lady, Bebe Asad Allah Deen / Bebe Asad Alauddin of Fishvar village in the Larestan county of Fars province, Iran. It was purchased by her on behalf of Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli Dr. Reem Tariq el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage. in 2018 to be added to The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. initiative collection.
Apart from being a fashion designer Ms. Ebadi is a dedicated volunteer associated with The Zay Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative and its cause, often lending a hand in sourcing unique pieces like this. Our heartfelt gratitude to Ms. Ebadi for her efforts for her contribution.
 
Object Features 
This head scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. or veil (meyna Meynā: (Synonym: rusari Rūsarī: (Synonym: meyna, Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. ), a pan Iranian term for headscarves or veils worn by women in Iran. It is also used sometimes to loosely refer a chador Chādor: (Persian: a tent), a long cloak like body cover similar to the (Abayah), traditionally worn by southern Iranian women of Hormozgan. Similar to the Afghan chadri, however these do not have a netted veil covering the face of the wearer. or hijab too. , Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. , čarqad), a kind of head scarf or veil worn by Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the Lori speaking ethnicity in Iran. It is draped over the head and pinned under the chin without covering their faces.  ) is made of red silk gauze Gauze: (English), very fine wire mesh transparent fabric of silk, linen, or cotton. or chiffon with metal embroidery commonly known as (badlah Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other.) throughout Iran as well as South Asia – India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. Although a rectangular piece it has two rounded corners for the purpose of easy draping around the head and shoulders.
Three sides of the veil are finished with metal thread (zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries. ) – possibly gold and silver – crocheted trimmings in five different layers on the horizontal side. The outermost layer around the edge is adorned with gold and silver scallops sewn into the edge.
This is followed by an interlaced square pattern which is further followed by two strips of badlah Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other. in different widths featuring geometric patterns. This edging is topped with a gold and silver zari Zarī: (Persian two-syllables: zar: gold & dozi: embellishment), complex embroidery technique that uses metal alloy on silk, satin, or velvet, and may include pearls, beads, and precious stones. Colloquially in the Arab gulf region, the term (zarī) is loosely applied to any gilded thread, embellishment or gilded brocade fabric. Originated in ancient Persia it has been used extensively in Indian and Middle Eastern textiles for centuries.  woven lace trimming. The narrower ends of the veil have four layers of border. Starting with the lace trimming at the inner end, which is followed by a black and gold woven strip which is further followed by a wide strip woven in rose gold threads and orange silk floss Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. creating a repeat of diamond patterns. The final layer is the series of threads hanging loose from the edge in a fringe with golden sequins attached to it at the end.
Although (rusari Rūsarī: (Synonym: meyna, Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. ), a pan Iranian term for headscarves or veils worn by women in Iran. It is also used sometimes to loosely refer a chador Chādor: (Persian: a tent), a long cloak like body cover similar to the (Abayah), traditionally worn by southern Iranian women of Hormozgan. Similar to the Afghan chadri, however these do not have a netted veil covering the face of the wearer. or hijab too. ) is the pan-Iranian term for veils, diaphanous meyna Meynā: (Synonym: rusari Rūsarī: (Synonym: meyna, Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. ), a pan Iranian term for headscarves or veils worn by women in Iran. It is also used sometimes to loosely refer a chador Chādor: (Persian: a tent), a long cloak like body cover similar to the (Abayah), traditionally worn by southern Iranian women of Hormozgan. Similar to the Afghan chadri, however these do not have a netted veil covering the face of the wearer. or hijab too. , Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. , čarqad), a kind of head scarf or veil worn by Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the Lori speaking ethnicity in Iran. It is draped over the head and pinned under the chin without covering their faces.   like this are commonly worn with a collarless ceremonial shirt of silk brocade Brocade: (Italian: brocco – twisted thread), is a richly decorative fabric woven with an intricate raised pattern. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where it was made for the imperial court. It later spread to Europe during the Renaissance and became popular in couture and decorative arts.  (jama_atlas Jama_atlas: (Hindustani: jama Jāma: (Persian, Synonym: Juma Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north.), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas­ – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Juma_atlas Juma_atlas: (Hindustani: Juma Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas­ – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Jama_atlas), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. ), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran.   / juma_atlas Juma_atlas: (Hindustani: Juma Jūma: (Persian, Synonym: Jama), a mantle to cover the torso. Amongst the women in south of Iran specially from Hormozgan it is a loose shift tunic dress, however the connotation changes and is used to refer to a shirt dress by the women further north. – A robe; Atlas­ – silk obtained from the Atlas worm; Synonym: Jama_atlas), a collarless shirt of silk brocade fabric worn during ceremonial occasions like weddings by women of the Lori speaking ethnic community in south and southwest of Iran. ) or a long-sleeved tunic (pirhan) or the Qashqai (keynak Keynak: (Turkmen: Koynek – Women’s loose ankle length tunic), a traditional collarless shirt for men and tunic dress for women of the Turkic speaking Qashqai tribe in Iran. ) and a full or divided skirt (tombun_zanuna Tombūn-zanūna: (Persian: zanu/zanoo – knee; Synonym: Tonban Tonbān: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Salita Salīta: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Tonban), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic-speaking Qashqai women of Iran. ), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic speaking Qashqai women of Iran. , Salita Salīta: (Persian, Synonym: tombun_zanuna, Tonban), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Turkic-speaking Qashqai women of Iran. ), traditional long skirts usually of satin silk worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran.  ) and a pair of underdrawers (zirsawlar zīr­sawlār: A pair of under-drawers traditionally worn by both men and women of Lori-speaking ethnic communities like the Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi. ) by women of the Lori speaking ethnicity.
While the Lori community calls it the meyna Meynā: (Synonym: rusari Rūsarī: (Synonym: meyna, Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. ), a pan Iranian term for headscarves or veils worn by women in Iran. It is also used sometimes to loosely refer a chador Chādor: (Persian: a tent), a long cloak like body cover similar to the (Abayah), traditionally worn by southern Iranian women of Hormozgan. Similar to the Afghan chadri, however these do not have a netted veil covering the face of the wearer. or hijab too. , Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. , čarqad), a kind of head scarf or veil worn by Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the Lori speaking ethnicity in Iran. It is draped over the head and pinned under the chin without covering their faces.   and is usually paired with a hood (lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. ) underneath it, the women of the Qashqai tribes – Turkic origin from the Zagros mountainous region – whose traditional dresses until c. the 1920s were heavily influenced and were almost similar to the population of southwest Iran – Fars, Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad, west Hormozgan, etc. –referred to their diaphanous veil as lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran.  or (čarqad) which they draped over a small skull cap called (kolaqča kolāqča: A kind of small skull cap traditionally worn by Turkic speaking Qashqai women on their heads before draping a diaphanous veil over it. ).
Although this ensemble has a very close resemblance to the regular ensemble from Fishvar – also in Fars province, Iran rife with Lori-speaking tribes –it is worth noting that this ensemble is a ceremonial garment for occasional wear. While the northern Lori women would be seen wearing a scarf Scarf: (English), usually a rectangular piece of cloth loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. (tara_awwal Tarā_awwal: (Arabic: awwal – first); a scarf traditionally worn by the Lori speaking ethnic women before wrapping their traditional turban – tara. ) and a turban (tara Tarā: A kind of turban traditionally worn by Lori speaking ethnic women over their scarves. ) over it on their heads, the Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the south often drape their heads with a hood (lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. ) and fine veil (meyna Meynā: (Synonym: rusari Rūsarī: (Synonym: meyna, Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. ), a pan Iranian term for headscarves or veils worn by women in Iran. It is also used sometimes to loosely refer a chador Chādor: (Persian: a tent), a long cloak like body cover similar to the (Abayah), traditionally worn by southern Iranian women of Hormozgan. Similar to the Afghan chadri, however these do not have a netted veil covering the face of the wearer. or hijab too. , Qashqai – lačak lačak: (Lori – A hood worn by Lori speaking ethnic women of Iran underneath their head scarves. Qashqai – (Synonym: meyna; rusari), a diaphanous scarf worn by the Qashqai women of Iran. , čarqad), a kind of head scarf or veil worn by Bakhtiari and Boir-Ahmadi women of the Lori speaking ethnicity in Iran. It is draped over the head and pinned under the chin without covering their faces.  ) over it.
It is worth noting that the name badlah Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other. for this type of embroidery is although the same across Iran and South Asia it is also sometimes commonly referred to as (khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ) in south Iran.
It is believed that the term badlah Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other. is derived from the phrase ‘badal kinari’ – cloud lining – popular during the Mughal period in India as net or fine gauze Gauze: (English), very fine wire mesh transparent fabric of silk, linen, or cotton. silk were often embroidered with metal pieces giving them the look of clouds with bright lines around them.
However, upon crossing the Gulf and reaching the Arabian Peninsula the nomenclature of the embroidery changes to (talli Tallī: (Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asīūṭī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli Tulle_bi_tallī: (English: tulle: netting, Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with flat strips of metal alloys coated with silver or gold squeezed shut around some threads of fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ), metal alloys coated with silver or gold, to create either flat straws or coil threads applied on clothing in varying patterns. / tulle_bi_talli Tulle_bi_tallī: (English: tulle: netting, Arabic: talā, or talā’: paint or to coat, Turkish: tel: wire, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish Mukaish (Indian, synonyms: asūṭī, tallī, tur_bi_tallī/tulle_bi_talli, mnaqad/mnaghad, mukaish, badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Indian embroidery technique where small rectangular strips of metal are squeezed shut around some threads of the fabric creating intricate shapes and designs., badla/badlah, fardi, khus_dozi Khūs_dozi: (Persian: Khus – Gold; Dozi – sewing or embroidery), any embroidery that is done with gold wire or thread. ). Cotton linen or synthetic mesh hand embellished with flat strips of metal alloys coated with silver or gold squeezed shut around some threads of fabric creating intricate shapes and designs.), while the cuffs of women’s trousers which are detachable and could be changed are called badlah Bādlah: (Hindi: badla, pl. bawādil), metallic thread adornment. Colloquially in the UAE, it refers to the embellished pant cuffs, also be pronounced (bedlah) from the verb to change, due to its value it was recycled from one garment to the other..
With cross-cultural lineages running deep between the communities living on either side of the Gulf, it is thus no wonder, that material culture such as this has found firm grounds on both sides.
Although part of an ensemble in the collection, the sourcing of each item in the series has been done separately. However, traditional women’s costumes from the Fars province of Iran consisted of similar pieces put together.
 
Links 

• https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/knotting-and-netting/badla 


• https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopaedia-iranica-online/clothing


• https://books.google.ae/books?id=gbIsJ2tZJS4C&pg=PA148&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false 


• https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxv 


• https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxviii 


• https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xxvii