Object HistoryThis piece of rectangular
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk. cloth was gifted to
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
El Mutwalli
Dr. Reem Tariq
Ṭariq: (Arabic; Synonym: tulle_bi_talli; talli; badla; khus_dozi ), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in the Levant Arab region specifically in Lebanon.
el Mutwallī: Founder (CEO) of the Zay
Zay: (Arabic: costume, Pl. azyaā’), a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period. Initiative, a public figure, speaker and author. An expert curator and consultant in Islamic art and architecture, interior design, historic costume, and UAE heritage., by Khawla Khalid wife of Anwar Diab from Iraq – a family friend of Dr Reem. Khawla’s father was well-known among different ethnicities and religious sects of Baghdad, who tended to often gift him unique items.
Khawla Khalid-Diab was born in Baghdad in 1939. The oldest daughter of a senior judge and his socialite wife. She came of age during Iraq’s cultural and political heyday of the 1950s and 1960s. She began her career as a pharmacist in Iraq. In 1980, Khawla immigrated to the United States and settled in Boston, Massachusetts where she continued working in the pharmaceutical field.
She and her husband of over 50 years raised three children and seven grandchildren. Khawla is active in the Boston area's Arab community with a passion for literature, cuisine, and fine arts.
Object FeaturesThis rectangular peach silk cloth of (
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.) weave was possibly part of a broadcloth or a utilitarian decorative fabric like a panel, table, or bed cover. The piece is primarily embellished with (
satin_stitch
Satin_stitch: (Synonym: Damask Stitch), is a type of flat embroidery stitch that creates a satin like smooth and shiny surface by closely spaced stitches, covering an entire area or shape.) embroidery done by hand in silk
floss
Floss: (Old French: flosche – nap of velvet), is a type of silk fibre obtained from the cocoons of wild silkworms. It is characterized by its long, fluffy fibers that are not tightly woven, making it ideal for use in various textile applications such as embroidery, lace-making, and sewing. threads in a variety of colours. The patterns are floral in nature and are mostly concentrated in the centre of the fabric.
While the foliage is depicted in a range of different pale green and grey shades, the flowers on the other hand range from shades of brown to pink like mahogany and fuchsia to red like burgundy and (
crimson
Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles.) as well as bright blue.
Culturally and geographically animal symbolism in the form of butterflies and dragonflies are also incorporated as design elements. They are depicted in lavender, grey, and blue with contrasting highlights like
crimson
Crimson: (Persian/Arabic and Turkish: qirmiz or kirmiz – red), is a vivid red color originally made from the dried bodies of a scale insect of the Kermes genus native to the Mediterranean region and was used as a dye for clothing and textiles. and shades of brown. The hem of the piece is finely machine embroidered.
With just a handful of countries earning mentions in the “Object range” section due to technical limitations, one must never forget the vast range of influence the Chinese culture has had across the globe, especially in South and Central Asia, Southeast Asia, and the Middle East. As such it would not be presumptuous to categorise all the countries of these regions under this section where such a fabric likely to be easily available.
In fact, the impact of the Silk Route from China all the way across to the Middle East could perhaps very well be surmised through one word “
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.”. A fabric that was exported from the port of Zayton in China and was acquired by the Arab traders was named after the city that it came from and was later morphed into “
satin
Sātin: (Arabic: Zaytuni: from Chinese port of Zayton in Quanzhou province where it was exported from and acquired by Arab merchants), one of the three basic types of woven fabric with a glossy top surface and a dull back. Originated in China and was fundamentally woven in silk.” by the Europeans.
Similarly, the cultural exchanges through trade relations between China and South Asia had always been quite strong so much so that religious philosophies like that of Buddhism that was essentially born in India became one of the major faiths in China since the antiquities.
Links
- https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5954418
- https://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/cutwork
Cutwork: It is a surface embroidery technique using two main stitches – the running stitch and the buttonhole stitch and is usually made on fine linen or cotton with threads that match the fabric colour. It creates a lace like pattern while the stitches prevent the fabric from fraying. -embroidery.html
- https://www.christies.com/features/Chinese-robes-collecting-guide-7813-1.aspx
- https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6130068
- https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/art-asia/blue-ground-kesi
Kesi: (Chinese: kesi – cut silk), a weaving technique in Chinese silk tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. using short length weft threads with each colour using a separate bobbin. The threads are tucked into the textile in such a way that only the weft threads are visible in the finished fabric. -surcoat
Surcoat: (Old French: sur – over), is a loose robe or outer coat that could sometimes be worn over an armour and is worn as a part of an insignia of an order of imperial guards or a knighthood. -longgua-655/156157
- https://exchange.umma.umich.edu/resources/26228#
- https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/wpcontent/uploads/2020/07/Sheet7_AsianEduRes_A4_sheets_DVD.pdf
- https://artsandculture.google.com/story/reading-a-dragon-robe/EwIywfDtcg-mKg
- https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/68920
- https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-638164
- https://www.sarajo.com/history-chinese-rank-badges/
- https://www.jessicagrimm.com/blog/china-embroidered-rank-badges
- https://www.britannica.com/event/Chinese-Civil-War
- https://medium.com/@junilyeung/mamianqun
Mamianqun: (Chinese: ma – horse; mian – face; qun – skirt; Synonym – Paired apron), is a lower garment item of women’s traditional Chinese ensemble. Possibly originated sometimes during the Song Dynasty (960-1279 CE), it is characterized by its series of fine pleats falling between three flat panels. -gate-when-chinese-wolf-warrior-antics-hamper-defense-of-han-dress-heritage-worldwide-ab4226b080cc
- https://zonemoda.unibo.it/chinese-yunjian
Yunjian: (Synonym – cloud_collar), is a traditional collar style in Chinese clothing characterized by its cloud-like shape. The earliest form of this motif is found in the bronze mirrors from c. 4th to 3rd century BCE. It gained popularity during the Ming and Qing periods. -cloud-falling-on-the-shoulder/
- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O127602/yunjian
Yunjian: (Synonym – cloud_collar), is a traditional collar style in Chinese clothing characterized by its cloud-like shape. The earliest form of this motif is found in the bronze mirrors from c. 4th to 3rd century BCE. It gained popularity during the Ming and Qing periods. -collar-unknown/
- https://orientalbigbang.com/products/chinese-hanfu
Hanfu:(Chinese: Hanfu – Traditional Chinese dresses) Worn by the Han Chinese people recorded since the second imperial dynasty of China – the Han Dynasty – which came to power in 2nd Century BCE these dresses greatly influenced the traditional garments of its neighbouring regions such as Japan and Korea.-accesorry-yunjian
Yunjian: (Synonym – cloud_collar), is a traditional collar style in Chinese clothing characterized by its cloud-like shape. The earliest form of this motif is found in the bronze mirrors from c. 4th to 3rd century BCE. It gained popularity during the Ming and Qing periods. -cloud-shoulder
- https://www.k11craftandguild.org/craft/kesi
Kesi: (Chinese: kesi – cut silk), a weaving technique in Chinese silk tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. using short length weft threads with each colour using a separate bobbin. The threads are tucked into the textile in such a way that only the weft threads are visible in the finished fabric. /
- http://www.suzhou.gov.cn/szsenglish/sgy/201611/e94eb6122c454f1c9bce8fd15e3375c4.shtml
- https://nazmiyalantiquerugs.com/blog/kesi
Kesi: (Chinese: kesi – cut silk), a weaving technique in Chinese silk tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. using short length weft threads with each colour using a separate bobbin. The threads are tucked into the textile in such a way that only the weft threads are visible in the finished fabric. -chinese-tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. /
- https://www.wei-yee.com/craftsmanship/kesi
Kesi: (Chinese: kesi – cut silk), a weaving technique in Chinese silk tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. using short length weft threads with each colour using a separate bobbin. The threads are tucked into the textile in such a way that only the weft threads are visible in the finished fabric. -chinese-silk-tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. -weaving
- https://www.britannica.com/art/kesi
Kesi: (Chinese: kesi – cut silk), a weaving technique in Chinese silk tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. using short length weft threads with each colour using a separate bobbin. The threads are tucked into the textile in such a way that only the weft threads are visible in the finished fabric.
- https://encyclocraftsapr.com/kesi
Kesi: (Chinese: kesi – cut silk), a weaving technique in Chinese silk tapestry
Tapestry: wall hanging or other large piece of fabric that is woven in coloured weft threads or embroidered with a decorative design. Typically made of wool, but they can also be made of other materials such as silk, linen, or cotton. Often used to decorate homes, churches, and other buildings. using short length weft threads with each colour using a separate bobbin. The threads are tucked into the textile in such a way that only the weft threads are visible in the finished fabric. /
- https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1106&context=tsaconf
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrXWXKoq2GY
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef28p8MtMaU
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWfu_mWNnUY
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPvzuVOYEsE
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdBeGFHxmAc
- https://australian.museum/learn/cultures/international-collection/chinese/mandarin-square/
- https://www.penn.museum/collections/highlights/highlight.php?irn=4025
- https://www.penn.museum/collections/object/246110
- Cammann, Schuyler. “The Development of the Mandarin Square.” Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies, vol. 8, no. 2, 1944, pp. 71–130. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/2717953. Accessed 8 May 2023.
- https://www.jstor.org/stable/2717953
- https://www.spurlock.illinois.edu/exhibits/online/MandarinSquares/gallery.html
- https://www.kentwang.com/accessories/pocket-squares/mandarin-square-silver-pheasant.html
- https://mnk.pl/collection/the-collection-of-chinese-clothing-from-the-qing-dynasty
- https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icassee-19/125923391