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Embellished undergarment in metallic straw – UAE

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Local Name	Sarwal talli badlah
Object Category	Pants
Gender	Female
Date of object	2000 - 2005
Place Of orgin	United Arab Emirates
Region	Al Hir
Object Range	Asia, Qatar, UAE
Dimensions	Length: 102 cm Width: 40 cm
Materials	Silk
Technique	Machine Stitched Embellished
Color
Motif	Floral Geometric
Provenance	Purshased, Moza Obaid, Al Hir 2005
Location	Traditional Dress House, Al Shindagha Museum, Dubai, UAE
Status	On loan
ZI number	ZI2005.50099 UAE

Object History 
The metallic embroidery (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) on these underpants () was created by a craftswoman known as Moza, born in the 1950s. She is a self-taught artisan who specialises in making intricate cords/braids ( ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) and is heavily in demand for demonstrations at local and international craft shows.
In these underpants there are two cuffs (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

) that Moza made perhaps at a lady’s request, but she didn’t take them back. This example was probably commissioned for someone but remained uncollected. Luckily, we discovered it in 2005 and purchased it for the Collection.
Though this is not a valuable silver (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

) that can be melted down and sold in times of need, there are very few craftswomen alive who know how to create such intricate and beautiful cuffs (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

). These are usually individually commissioned to be included in a bride’s trousseau (zihbah), as a celebration of the customs and traditions of earlier days. Despite the lack of precious metals, they are expensive nonetheless, because of their rarity, mainly because of the time-consuming intricacy of making the design by hand.
Moza was a simple woman who never learned how to read or write. She was married to her maternal cousin at the young age of 13 and gave birth to 4 daughters and 4 sons. She learned the trade from her mother and aunts who all were skilled in metallic adornment (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) and face mask () making.

Object Features 
These underpants use full ()  silk fabric, rather than just on the visible lower parts, as is common on less expensive examples. The cuffs are embellished with a very wide intricate ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

 composed of multi-coloured silk thread () with both silver and gold metallic thread ().
The ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

, in the Emirati Arabic dialect, is the namesake of the cuffs on the underpants . It is generally composed of multiple lines of cords/braids/bands or ribbons ( or ), that are individually created by knotting together cotton (), silk , or synthetic () threads with silver, gold plated , or metallic () ribbons (). Resulting in over 40 recorded designs in varying widths, motifs, and intricacies, often named after the motifs depicted on them.
The decorative cuffs (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

) are generally composed of the central portion ( motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf).) and side or edge (). The  motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf). is the larger middle part of the cuff and can include between 1 to 20 different cord/ribbon ( ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

) hand-stitched side by side. The centre is hemmed by the  , meaning edges. These form the rim or border of the central portion ( motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf).).
The traditional basic style of cuff (; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

; ; badla), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in Iran and parts of the Arabian Peninsula possibly because Khvosh was one of the centres for the craft.

), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment. The term is commonly used in India and parts of the subcontinent.

) includes a trim that sits between the central portion  motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf). and edges  in a () motif. The () motif is generally the lower edge and the () or () motifs decorate the upper edge. Every cord/braid is made separately and joined later.
The wider larger size cuffs are reserved for special occasions, while narrower smaller sizes are used for everyday wear or by the elderly.
In this example the  motifs, and hemmed by a few lines forming the rim (trāf). is composed of 9 cords/braids :
The top cord/braid is in black cotton thread  and silver ribbon , using a combination of ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

 motifs, () and . The cords that follow are:
-Black cotton  and metallic gold ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

motif.
-Orange cotton  and metallic gold ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

motif.
-Black cotton  and metallic silver  () and () motif.
-White cotton  and metallic gold ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

motif.
-Fushia and metallic silver  and motif.
-Green cotton  and metallic silver  () motif.
-Black cotton  and metallic gold ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

motif.
-Black cotton  and metallic silver  and motif.
In this example, the  is composed of 5 cords/braids :
The top cord is black cotton  and metallic gold ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

motif.
The cords that follow are:
-White cotton  and metallic gold  ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

 motif.
-Green and metallic silver  () motif.
-Orange cotton  and metallic gold  ; tariq; badla; khus_dozi), series of small metal knots made on a woven net ground as embellishment.

motif.
-Black cotton  and metallic silver  ()  motif.

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