This tunic dress (kandurah) was made and worn by Mariam Da’ud, Um Ahmed, from Khor Fakkan, an exclave of the Emirate of Sharjah, located on the eastern coast of the UAE. It was purchased by Dr. Reem Tariq el Mutwalli directly from Mariam on a field visit to the area. She was a skilled crafter and had made herself following the traditional form.
Mariam had no formal education, she was married to her maternal cousin at the age of 14 and has 5 daughters and 4 sons. She used her crafting skills to make traditional (talli) and face masks (burgu).
This tunic kandurah is known as (kandurah_arabiyah) and is specific to the UAE, though its origin is believed to emanate from the Punjabi kurta. Its defining feature is the vertical slit (shaj) on the left side of the neckline (halj) that extends down the chest. It functioned as a means to enlarge the fitted neckline opening (halj) and allow the head to pass through.
Both the neckline (halj) and side opening shaj are decorated with two simple lines of one strand of (talli_fatlah). The same is repeated on the sleeve cuffs (hyul) confirming it was made for an elderly lady, yet such simple lines were also applied on tunics (kanadir) intended for general daily use.
The colourful floral printed wool (suf) is known as (suf_makkah) or (tirmah), popular throughout the Gulf region and wider Muslim world. Commonly bought in coupons (kobon) of four yards as souvenir gifts brought back to relatives and friends, by pilgrims performing the Hajj in Mecca (KSA).
The gusset (bat) is made of contrasting fuchsia fabric, brocaded with paisley (gazuwah) motif with a metallic lustre. This same fabric is then used as hemming (hashiyah) at the bottom edge of the relatively short garment, known as (sinjaf) or (zingaf) by women of the eastern region of the UAE.